Replacing Clutch, Do i need all this stuff??

[coupe_nasty]

Let me start by saying my car only has 33k original miles on it. I noticed a couple times in 5th gear on the highway, if im in boost the rpms will jump up but i dont accelerate. I assumed this is a slipping clutch.

So i will be replacing my oem clutch with a southbend ss clutch kit, Act streetlite flywheel, and new oem TOB.

My question is do i really need to replace anything else with such low mileage such as...

Clutch release fork?
Pivot ball?
New master slave cylinder?
new clutch slave cylinder?
clutch lines?

I don't want to spend extra money if it is unnecessary.

 

[ZombieSix]

If everything works no. Inspect your pivot ball if it's smooth n Shiney it's fine. The fork will snap before it bends mine is at 100k miles and fine. If your slave n master work there's no reason to do Em. Just get a ss clutch line.

 

[Ace_gst]

If you only have 33k miles the master and slave should be in working order, just replace the clutch. When you have your new clutch in make sure you check for clutch drag and check to see if your shift arm is hitting bell housing when clutch is fully depressed.

Jacks transmission has great videos on check pivot ball for shimming and adjusting clutch.

 

[kchaazz]

Age trumps mileage on the master and slave, but an inspection of these will be a good place to start. Pull the boot back on the slave. Is there fluid in the boot? does the bore look rusty? Pull the boot off the master. Is there fluid coming out here? If neither are leaking fluid, they might be good.
The fork and ball are likely to be good, but you need to check them anyway. The way to properly check is to put the transmission on, then push the fork toward the passenger side of the car so that the TOB is touching the PP fingers. When this is done, the fork should be angled toward the driver side slightly, and if so, go ahead and bolt the transmission down and put the car back together. If the fork is angled toward the passenger side or dead nuts centered, take the transmission back off and either replace the fork and ball, or shim the ball with a washer and then put the transmission on and check again. Once youre good here, move on to completely flushing all the old brake fluid from the master, slave and lines and replace with new fluid. I bleed the clutch using the guide on teamrip.com (TRE), and use the clutch adjustment guide on Jackstransmissions.com.

 

[my dreamt dsm]

No. When I did my clutch at 120K, my pivot, fork, lines were still good. I already bought the stuff from stm so I just changed it anyways.