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What clutch setup for 600awhp? (2.3L)

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FirstCarIsA GSX

10+ Year Contributor
126
0
Dec 20, 2010
Riverside, California
Okay guys ive done countless hours of research here on tuners about different clutch setups. I've come to the conclusion that people like to give reccomendations based on what they've "heard" or something on a "friends car" This holds no weight in my opinion and people usually never even give insightful reasons on why or why not to go with a specific setup. I want only suggestions from people who have run a specific setup at a high horsepower level. Please give detailed explanations on why it is you have such an opinion.

Details of my setup:
2.3L stroker (6 Bolt)
Hx40 7 blade
Jacks 2.2 Super HD (welded center diff)

Use: Somewhat daily driven/weekend warrior at the strip


I'm looking for a clutch setup that will be able to take a beating on the streets as well as hard launches at the strip every now and then. It must also be able to deal with the massive torque numbers the stroker will be putting out. I have heard good and bad things about every clutch setup on the market so what i really want to know is the opinions of people who actually use a specific clutch at high horsepower numbers. (From my research leaning towards a twin-disk)

Let the carnage begin.
 
ACT 2600 with a sprung 6 puck here.

Go with a 2900 6 puck since you should have a pretty high amount of torque to horsepower setup.
 
I've got a 2.3l stroker with a hx40 gonna try to run the same amount of hp as you. I talked to jnz tuning when I was ordering my setup and they suggested a act 2600 pressure plate with a 6 puck unsprung clutch and a act lightweight flywheel. I'm pretty sure it cost me around 700. Im some ways though I kind of wished i bought a twin disk for alittle more, but I think this clutch should do me good for a while.
 
Quarter master gear drive twin with street disks and street flywheel, media blasted friction surfaces with Competition Clutch forged steel clutch fork, OEM TOB, OEM pivot ball, OEM master/slave, 21.2mm flywheel bolts and an alignment tool. That is the comprehensive parts list for the proper install of a QM twin. Stay away from the cheap standard hub disks as they WILL fail and likely damage your transmission input shaft splines.

Otherwise, if you are going single, I would do a SBC SS-X 2700# pressure plate with a B-series full ceramic friction full face sprung hub disk and an OEM fork/pivot ball/TOB with an ACT Streetlite flywheel.

It's around $800 for the single disk clutch and flywheel combo, and around $1450 for the twin disk combo minus the accessories I recommended.

I have direct experience with numerous clutches over the last decade and these are my two favorites for 600tq 2.3L AWD setups that are seeing abuse.
 
Quarter master gear drive twin with street disks and street flywheel, media blasted friction surfaces with Competition Clutch forged steel clutch fork, OEM TOB, OEM pivot ball, OEM master/slave, 21.2mm flywheel bolts and an alignment tool. That is the comprehensive parts list for the proper install of a QM twin. Stay away from the cheap standard hub disks as they WILL fail and likely damage your transmission input shaft splines.

Otherwise, if you are going single, I would do a SBC SS-X 2700# pressure plate with a B-series full ceramic friction full face sprung hub disk and an OEM fork/pivot ball/TOB with an ACT Streetlite flywheel.

It's around $800 for the single disk clutch and flywheel combo, and around $1450 for the twin disk combo minus the accessories I recommended.

I have direct experience with numerous clutches over the last decade and these are my two favorites for 600tq 2.3L AWD setups that are seeing abuse.

So you'd take the quartermaster twin over the ACT or any other setup? I know you're the drivetrain expert here so your reccomendation goes a long way. With accessories how much are we looking at cost wise?
 
Be advised that the twin's can be a bit tricky to get them out of the hole on street tires. But god damn do they shift good though.


I'm going to a 2600 and 6 puck now. Although I want to try the old school 3200/streetdisc...
 
So you'd take the quartermaster twin over the ACT or any other setup? I know you're the drivetrain expert here so your reccomendation goes a long way. With accessories how much are we looking at cost wise?

I would take the QM twin over anything other than a Tilton Carbon that costs 4x more and is a RACE only clutch. The QM gear drive with street flywheel and street disks is a completely different clutch to drive than the race flywheel that is 4# lighter; it is simply higher inertia and makes it considerably easier to street drive.

The OEM TOB, Comp. Clutch forged fork, OEM pivot ball, OEM TOB clip, alignment tool, and 21.2mm OEM flywheel bolts cost $175.33 shipped, and with the clutch (with media blasted friction surfaces), it would be $1641.32.
 
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