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Do these carrier bearings look ok (with video)

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Dr Vic

15+ Year Contributor
107
1
Aug 30, 2007
Dallas, Texas
Hi Guys,

been posting here for the past 2 days. Essentially I hear a squeaking noise during deceleration from 70 mph. When coasting in neutral the sound correlates with the speed of the vehicle. Revving the engine does not make the sound worse.

suggestions I got were the wheel bearings which appear ok.

I checked the carrier bearings and they look fine but Im not sure

Can anybody tell me if these carrier bearings look bad. When I spin them they spin freely and they dont grab. Rubber is not torn.
if they look fine would you guys suggest I fill them with polyurethane?

rear carrier. First 20-30 secs should be ok

Video1 - YouTube

front carrier bearing

Video 2 - YouTube
 
Hard to diagnose from the videos; the easiest way to check carrier bearings is while they're bolted up try to move the drive shaft up and down. Mine didn't show symptoms (the infamous "clunk" or any other noises) but with the bearings secure I had probably 1-2" total freeplay in each carrier bearing. I attempted filling them with the shaft still (halfway) on the car with minimal success, it surely won't hurt anything so if you decide to fill them I recommend removing the assembly from the car just to make it easier on yourself.
 
when they were bolted they had about 1 to 1.5 inches of free play. does that sound like too much?
 
Many people have filled the bearings with sucess, but some have had horrible results.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...-vibration-after-filling-carrier-bearing.html

When filling the carrier with window weld you can actually off center the shaft which will make a horrible vibration. Some very respectable members have reported this problem when filling the bearings.

Check out this thread to see what the bearings are actually made of and how to replace all the components.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ebuild-including-lobro-inspection-videos.html

You could also have a bad U-joint. The post above will also show you how to check and replace those as well. Also, follow Justins advice and use superior joints if you must replace them.

Robert
 
Yeah Ive checked 2 out of 3 u joints and they look ok to me. I may have overestimated the amount of play in the carrier bearings. Its closer to .5 to 1 inch. the rubber which holds the bearing in the first place is intact without cracks or anything. How stiff is the rubber by the way? From the videos you can see how the rubber in my carrier bearings are relatively stiff. Ill take the entire driveshaft out and check all the u joints.
 
When we are dis-assembleing the driveshaft, we actually cut the rubber on one of the old carrier bearings and turn it inside out. This shows you what is between the bearing and the rubber outside.

To check the U-joints, the shaft needs to be removed. You can then rotate each U-joint to all its axis's. There should be a smooth steady motion throughout the entire range of the joint. If you feel any (for lack of better terms) notchyness or loose/tight spots, the joint should be replaced.

You could also use WD-40 (or another lubricant) to spray the caps and U-joints. If this stops the squealing then you will also know that the U-joints are bad.

Robert
 
I took my driveshaft out and I shot a video. I dont feel any grinding or notchiness in any of the u joints. The carrier bearings are not catching nor appear loose.

does anything else cause a squeaking noise only during deceleration? I also noticed some grease fittings in my driveshaft. I didnt think our driveshafts came with grease fittings

Drive shaft - YouTube

heres another carrier bearing video. it appears that the bearing itself has separated from the rubber

Drive shaft carrier bearing movement - YouTube
 
I just replaced all my driveline components, I don't remember it being that loose. I doubt they have ever been changed. If I were you, I would redo it all and just watch the videos linked. It is very simple to do.
 
Im just trying to save some money since I just bought a timing belt kit as well. Ive seen the videos and it does not look that hard to do. If the U joints look ok do I really need to replace them?
 
If your U-joints are not stiff as in it takes a lot of force to move them and they are not floppy, like you can breathe on it and theyll move and they visually look ok, then you probably don't need to replace them.
 
yeah they move well without any notchiness at all and there is no play. what does floppy mean...as in they move too easily or does that mean any play in the joints?
 
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