[RESOLVED] Unable to Remove 5th/Rev Synchro Assembly (Pics)

greekgodchaos · 02-20-2012, 06:18 PM

I have looked at the existing threads pertaining to my situation but found no helpful or useful answers. So heres whats going on: I got modified synchro keys from Jacks Transmissions to stop my annoying synchro rattle. I was able to remove the OEM keys no problem, but I cannot install the modified keys without removing the 5th/Rev Synchro Assembly (Not 100% if this is the proper name for it but I have pics for additional clarification) I have tried everything I can think of and used all the tools I have to try and remove this thing but to no avail. Can someone please tell me how the heck I go about removing this thing and where, if possible, should I be prying at? (the arrows are labeled, just include which one would be the ideal spot that is best for damage avoidance) Also included are pictures of a fellow who found a puller that seemed to work for him, but I cannot figure out how he slipped the arms between the gear and the synchro without damaging it... Anyway, here are the links to the pictures (they are big), thanks for reading and I hope to hear back from some of you soon!

P.S. Do I need to remove the nut for the middle gear as well as remove the middle gear itself in order to remove the 5th/Rev Assembly?

dented_coffee · 02-21-2012, 03:41 AM

I just grab onto it by hand and wiggle it off when I rebuild them. No you don't have to remove the nut from the intermediate shafts 5th gear to get the hub off.

I WOULD NOT recommend going and prying on it to get it off with tools as you will damage the synchro ring or engagement teeth on the input side of the 5th gear. If all else fails try adding heat from a blow torch with a tight focused flame to control the heat better. it will slide right off then.

GRNDSM · 02-21-2012, 06:17 AM

Usually, 5th gear just slips off, but in a few cases, I had to use puller. When I have enough space, I put it in the “B” position. But if I do not have enough clearance, I go for “C”. That can ruin the synchro, but I have plenty of spares around, so do not use “C” unless you are ready to replace the synchro

.

greekgodchaos · 02-21-2012, 10:42 AM

Guys thank you so much for your replies, I will try the controlled blowtorch method but I am wondering if a high temp heat gun would be sufficient as well. I want to try damage as little as possible, but as long as I can find new synchro's/replacement parts for the tranny, I'll be happy

Ill try the heat gun trick in a little bit and will update you guys on how it goes. Thanks again.

bryanwheat · 02-21-2012, 10:59 AM

Just get a different puller with 3 jaws and smaller point on the tip. I've got one that works every time with these. I wouldn't even both with the heat. The amount of heat that you need to make a difference could actually warp the hub.

eclipsh · 02-21-2012, 11:08 AM

My best luck with a sticky 5th assembly was at E with a pair of large, flat-tip screw drivers, one prying up on either side. You need even pressure or it gets cockeyed and jams. You could also use a pair of cold chisels at E and gently tap them in from opposite sides. Again, the key is slow and even pressure distribution.

turboking15 · 02-21-2012, 11:10 AM

Ive also had to use two smaller pry bars under the "E" point. Just make sure you have one on each side 180 degrees apart, and gently pry / wiggle them. Havent had a problem doing that in the 7-8 trans ive had apart.

9!'clipseDOHC · 02-21-2012, 11:15 AM

Mine was a royal pain to get off too. I used a 2 jaw puller on mine but I had to grind down one of the puller's feet for it to fit up under the hub. Mine was so stuck that I felt like the puller was going to break before it finally popped loose.

greekgodchaos · 02-21-2012, 01:21 PM

Thank you all for your replies, I do have good news! I got it off using a heat gun, WD-40, pry-bars, a 2 jaw gear puller for the final pull, and unfortunately sacrificing the synchro ring. Also I want to let everyone know that this was done on its side on a rolling transmission jack...probably should have propped it up so that the shafts were vertical, but oh well.

Now can someone answer me this: I have a 91 AWD Manual Transmission, can I put an Evo III 5th gear in it? Or does it have to be a 92+? And can someone tell me why if I cannot? Thanks guys!

GRNDSM · 02-21-2012, 01:47 PM

93+ DSM trannies use larger 5th gear. You can install it in 90-92 tranny (if you use all the matching parts), but you will also need an outer tranny cover, which has more clearance got the larger gear.

I do not know about EVO tranny, but I would guess that 5th gear is the same size as 93+.

I would just find a used 91 synchro

. If you were local to me, I would match one from my pile of parts

greekgodchaos · 02-21-2012, 03:48 PM

Here is something I found while wandering around Jack's website for an answer to my Evo III 5th gear question, hope this helps clear things up for everyone, it did for me!

Jacks Transmissions LLC — What Gear Set Do You Have?

And GRNDSM, thank you for the kind gesture, but right now my build continues to drag on and on and on and on....And I figure since my tranny is in pretty good shape, aside from the synchro rattle (as far as I can tell, there was some grinding on decelleration when I was driving it last summer, but then again it could have been either that, my leaky transfer case with a non-revised yoke, my motor, or even my intermediate shaft bearing for my axle!) I am just going to spring and get a new synchro for my 5th gear, and as for the Evo III 5th gear, unless I have a late 91 tranny, Ill just invest in a 92+ transmission and rebuild one for when mine goes kaboom from all that power I hope to be making :P

dented_coffee · 02-21-2012, 11:51 PM

If your after a revised yolk I have a brand new spare for really cheap. PM me for details on that. Tou use EVO3 parts you will need to change out a few things inside the transmission like I did.