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1G Intermediate shaft question

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subie22

15+ Year Contributor
354
0
Feb 28, 2007
Tobyhanna, PA, Pennsylvania
Well after thinking really hard. I really do think im a dsmer and always be. Its a way of life. I decided to keep my PITA dsm. Well i have to figure out a way to use the stock ac bracket with the bolts i have. Im thinking it should work basically use it as a spacer. After plenty of times taking the trans out i must of messed up the threads on the one my bolts that bolt into the intermediate shaft.

I have one in but the other one just wont thread in. Im getting sick and tired of it haha. I already brought it to the shop because of it awhile ago. Leasoned learned it will never go to another shop. If someone doesnt have an idea on whats the best way to use the stock equipment. Then i will tap and redo it. I just need to know the thread pitch so i can go buy a tap. Let me know. And not have bolts broken in it where the bolts will bolt up haha.
 
M10x1.25mm

You will want to use:

2x MB297860 (M10x1.25mm x 41.5mm bolts)
2x MF450406 (M10 Washers)
1x MB297732 (13mm spacer)
 
Mine has one bolt broken off in the block with no a/c bracket. I used a spacer the same thickness as the bracket and locktite. When the engine comes out I will be able to remove the broken bolt. I have ran with 1 bolt for about 10k miles. I don't remember the pitch, 1.50 or 1.25. Pull the remaining one and compare.
 
M10x1.25mm

You will want to use:

2x MB297860 (M10x1.25mm x 41.5mm bolts)
2x MF450406 (M10 Washers)
1x MB297732 (13mm spacer)

Thanks buddy. Im guessing i can get them online too. I need to order a bunch of other bolts misc stuff.
 
You are better off purchasing them from a dealer, or PM'ing me for pricing.

If you purchase them online, you will be paying up to 10% of the cost of the parts in shipping plus surcharges from most online dealers.
 
thanks when it comes time to purchase them i will let you know.
 
Mine has one bolt broken off in the block with no a/c bracket. I used a spacer the same thickness as the bracket and locktite. When the engine comes out I will be able to remove the broken bolt. I have ran with 1 bolt for about 10k miles. I don't remember the pitch, 1.50 or 1.25. Pull the remaining one and compare.

Have you ever launched it with only one bolt? Mine broke off partway in the block and I'm using a friend's garage so I don't have time to pull the motor. I was thinking of dropping the subframe but I dunno...
 
Scott, it is sort of a bi*** to drill out a broken bolt in the back of the block with the engine installed.

It is best accessible using a short 90-degree air drill or right-angle shallow power drill, and an extraction drill bit and extraction socket. You MAY be able to do this with just the halfshaft removed if your exhaust is out of the way, or by taking off the downpipe and removing the transfer case will give you more room.

I have found an excellent bolt/screw/bit extraction set to be the Irwin 3101010 48-piece extractor set. The set is a bit pricey, but it is an invaluable tool to have. Expect the low side of this tool set to be around $190.00 if you are looking for deals.

It is excellent for removing things like this while requiring minimal space to do so.

For air drills, I would go with an Ingersoll Rand IRT7807R. You need a reversible drill to utilize the left-hand drill bits.

Then you use the bolt extractor into the drill hole and remove the bolt in a counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey) direction.

Afterwards, I would chase the bolt holes (M8x1.25mm) to clean the threads in the block.
 
Scott, it is sort of a bi*** to drill out a broken bolt in the back of the block with the engine installed.

It is best accessible using a short 90-degree air drill or right-angle shallow power drill, and an extraction drill bit and extraction socket. You MAY be able to do this with just the halfshaft removed if your exhaust is out of the way, or by taking off the downpipe and removing the transfer case will give you more room.

I have found an excellent bolt/screw/bit extraction set to be the Irwin 3101010 48-piece extractor set. The set is a bit pricey, but it is an invaluable tool to have. Expect the low side of this tool set to be around $190.00 if you are looking for deals.

It is excellent for removing things like this while requiring minimal space to do so.

For air drills, I would go with an Ingersoll Rand IRT7807R. You need a reversible drill to utilize the left-hand drill bits.

Then you use the bolt extractor into the drill hole and remove the bolt in a counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey) direction.

Afterwards, I would chase the bolt holes (M8x1.25mm) to clean the threads in the block.


Thanks a ton for the advice! The transmission is out of the car, I was going to swap trannies when I found the bolt broke off.

I'm going to just pull the motor (and throw a few goodies in there while I'm at it) to make it easier to extract the bolt (and save money), but I'll be sure to chase the threads. Thanks a ton for the information, it's super helpful!
 
With the block out of the car, the Irwin bolt extractor kit should have absolutely no problems removing the stubborn broken bolt with a simple reversible drill, the proper-sized drill bit and extraction bit (everything comes in the kit I mentioned before).

Seriously, if you intend on keeping your DSM for more than one year, the Irwin kit will pay itself off in dividends, as these cars are notorious for breaking fasteners by looking at them wrong. Heck, I used it on 5 bolts today and it took care of all of them without one hiccup. Each one drilled out easy (10.9 fasteners!), and were extracted with a simple tap of the hammer to seat the extraction bit, and a simple turn in reverse with a 3/8" extended handle ratchet and a 13mm deep socket. Easy sleezy.


Good luck with the project, and I hope that it all works out for you!
 
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