Hearing a clicking sound when pushing in clutch

[nicknorth11]

There's a clicking sound coming from the engine bay every time I push in the clutch. Also, and I don't know if this is related or not, the clutch needs to be bled and re-adjusted, as it changes its level of engagement constantly. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this? If you need any more info. that I'm not thinking of, just say the word.

Thanks

[scotyu]

I would say to do the bleed job. If you know somethings not right then knock it out before you ask the question. If the problem is still there then it could be your clutch slave or master cylinders. They're hydrolic and have some moving parts. Other than that it could have something to to with the clutch.
Good luck bro!

[nicknorth11]

I can't bleed it yet since I don't have anyone to help me with it right now. I actually don't think it's the master or slave, as they were both replaced in the last few years and I don't they would make a constant clicking sound anyway.

[scotyu]

Here's a way to do it yourself...

Brake Bleeding: One person bleeding

It's for brakes but it says at the bottom that it can be used for the clutch too.
Worth a shot! lol..

[nicknorth11]

I already bought one and tried it. It didn't work well at all. Thanks anyway.

Any other ideas about the clicking sound? Anyone?

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Throw out bearing...I installed a brand spankin new OEM TOB with the car in neutral car is quiet as can be...puch clutch in...rattling...hum...either way I'm driving it that way til something decides to blow out I guess....

I really don't feel like yanking this damn 2g tranny again...1 time is 1 time too many lol
1g's I'll yank it for fun lol

[Morphius]

Originally Posted by nicknorth11

I already bought one and tried it. It didn't work well at all. Thanks anyway.

Any other ideas about the clicking sound? Anyone?

Did you open the bleeder screw too far? It'll actually let air back in as you let the clutch back out. I've been using that for 10+ years and never had any trouble. You can also use a jar/container with some brake fluid in it (1 inch or so) and a length of hose. Just submerse the hose in the container, in the fluid. That's key, the end of hose in the container must be submerged in the fluid. This is true with the item you bought. It needs to be filled with some fluid before you start.

Your change in the release point would lead me to believe that you've got the M/C misadjusted inside the car. Sounds like you are right at the point for it being in cut-off. At any time the clutch pedal is fully released, you should be able to push the S/C rod into the body of the S/C.

As for your clicking... only things I can think of are these:
Release bearing going bad. If you had the pedal adjusted wrong and it was in cut-off loading the bearing all the time,it doesn't take long for it to go bad. I've done this inadvertantly on my 1g when I put a 2600 in and the TB was shot within 10K miles because it was loaded and being spun every time it was running.
Lack of lubrication. The quill, the release bearing rides on, may be dry or lacking lube causing binding/metal on metal wear.
Misadjustment. If you do have the pedal misadjusted. With in cut-off, you can get pump-up. And when you have pump-up, the hydaulic system between the M/C and S/C ends up with more fluid in it than it's designed to have. A resultant of this, is the resting point of the release lever sticking out of the trans. It will be biased to the pass side and not centered in the window cut in the case. The end result is when you fully stroke the pedal it will hit other edge of the window. So, you'd be over stroking your clutch which could also be causing noise. Hard to say what exactly your clutch PP will do if you overstroke it. I've heard some click, but they all will act different.

[nicknorth11]

Thank you very much for the great information! I really appreciate it. I'll give the easy stuff a try first and, if that doesn't fix it, move on to the harder stuff.