Intermediate Shaft

[mindset]

I'm trying to install my Intermediate Shaft but the bracket will not sit right on the block. There's still a gap on the driver side bolt. I've tried screwing both bolts in evenly, but nothing. The passenger side one will sit flush, but the driver side one has a 1/4" gap between the bracket and the block. I've searched and there is no definite answers.

Thanks.

[red_devil]

Is it a new shaft?

If not make sure that it is all the way in the trany until you feel it pop.

[mindset]

Thanks!

Anything else?

Ok, it's in, I highly doubt it can go in anymore because the holes line up too. There's still that nasty gap.

Would it be ok just to run with one bolt it? I mean the knuckle and trans are keeping it in place.

[red_devil]

Originally Posted by mindset

Thanks!

Anything else?

Ok, it's in, I highly doubt it can go in anymore because the holes line up too. There's still that nasty gap.

Would it be ok just to run with one bolt it? I mean the knuckle and trans are keeping it in place.

I wouldnt leave one bolt in I've heard them coming off before which isnt good.

[pneumo]

I assume you don't have AC?
The AC bracket fills in that gap. You can just use 4 flat washers to take up the extra space.

[twicks69]

Originally Posted by pneumo

I assume you don't have AC?
The AC bracket fills in that gap. You can just use 4 flat washers to take up the extra space.

Yup.

If you aren't using the AC bracket, you will either need to chop off a portion of the AC bracket to use as a spacer, or fill the gap with the proper thickness of washers or a shim. Both bolts are a requirement.

[mindset]

I really wish I would have heard this information a couple hours ago... I'm in deep shit now. Thanks for the help though.

My dad thought it would be a good idea to take a breaker bar and tighten it... after I told him a dozen times there's no reason a breaker bar would be needed if the spec on a bolt is 30 ft/lbs. Therefore, I said don't use it you're going to snap it... He walks inside and goes, you're not going to like me right now.. but I snapped the bolt off in the block. I could seriously vent right now for a good hour but I'm not.

[whe3ls]

ouch.... that sucks. thats going to fun to get out...

[twicks69]

Good luck. The easiest way to remove that bolt since you totally screwed yourself, is to completely remove the engine from the vehicle, place it on a stand, and drill out the bolt. Then use an easy-out and extract the bolt after it has been drilled.

Worst-case scenario, you will need to drill out the threads of the bolt hole, and install a heli-coil (M12 x 1.25mm).

You need both bolts in place to hold the halfshaft to the block. You "may" be able to get away using one bolt, but I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND AGAINST DOING SO.

Tell your father he seriously fcked up. I am sure he will not like hearing that.


If you are very capable with a 90-degree drill (angle drill), you *MAY* be able to drop the driver-side and front/rear motor mounts to lower/angle the engine down far enough to drill it out with it in the vehicle, but it will be no where as easy as outside the vehicle.

[mindset]

Originally Posted by twicks69

Good luck. The easiest way to remove that bolt since you totally screwed yourself, is to completely remove the engine from the vehicle, place it on a stand, and drill out the bolt. Then use an easy-out and extract the bolt after it has been drilled.

Worst-case scenario, you will need to drill out the threads of the bolt hole, and install a heli-coil (M12 x 1.25mm).

You need both bolts in place to hold the halfshaft to the block. You "may" be able to get away using one bolt, but I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND AGAINST DOING SO.

Tell your father he seriously fcked up. I am sure he will not like hearing that.


If you are very capable with a 90-degree drill (angle drill), you *MAY* be able to drop the driver-side and front/rear motor mounts to lower/angle the engine down far enough to drill it out with it in the vehicle, but it will be no where as easy as outside the vehicle.

Yeah shit happens though. I'm not going to sit here and bash him on a website but he knows damn well what he got us into. I think were just going to try drilling it, then an easy out but who knows. How does that heli coil work? Does it just take place of the threads that are drilled out?

*I like the idea of removing the mounts. This is going to be fun!

Ok, what do you think of if we first drilled a hole in the bolt, then threaded it, then loctited/jbwelded another bolt in it. Then take a breaker bar or impact to get it out.

[pneumo]

An 'Easy-out' is used by drilling a small hole in the broken bolt, then insert the easyout into the hole, and unscrew the bolt. Hopefully it comes out smoothly.

If not, you'll have to use a bigger drill and drill out the whole bolt. Then you'll need to use a helicoil kit to repair the threads so you can use the same size bolt again.

Or you could drill it out and tap new threads for the next size larger bolt.

[mindset]

Originally Posted by pneumo

An 'Easy-out' is used by drilling a small hole in the broken bolt, then insert the easyout into the hole, and unscrew the bolt. Hopefully it comes out smoothly.

If not, you'll have to use a bigger drill and drill out the whole bolt. Then you'll need to use a helicoil kit to repair the threads so you can use the same size bolt again.

Or you could drill it out and tap new threads for the next size larger bolt.

Yea, I know what an easy-out is... just didn't understand how a heli-coil worked.

[daren_p]

When he snapped off the bolt did he happen to bottom the bolt out in the block? If your lucky & he didn't, the snapped off bolt probably doesn't have much torque on it & you may be able to remove it without drilling, etc. I know a couple locals had to deal with this recently. They tried the angle drill with no luck as there wasn't enough room. They lucked out, not having the bolt bottomed out. I'd have to see if I could dig it up but I think they just used a center punch & hammer, & very slowly spun the bolt, working its way back out.

Also if the bolt didn't snap off flush in the block, vise grips should do the trick, again if he didn't bottom the bolt out.

[twicks69]

Originally Posted by daren_p

When he snapped off the bolt did he happen to bottom the bolt out in the block? If your lucky & he didn't, the snapped off bolt probably doesn't have much torque on it & you may be able to remove it without drilling, etc. I know a couple locals had to deal with this recently. They tried the angle drill with no luck as there wasn't enough room. They lucked out, not having the bolt bottomed out. I'd have to see if I could dig it up but I think they just used a center punch & hammer, & very slowly spun the bolt, working its way back out.

Also if the bolt didn't snap off flush in the block, vise grips should do the trick, again if he didn't bottom the bolt out.

Also, if there are exposed threads, you could always mig-weld a nut onto the bolt and then spin it out.

If you are going to weld a nut on, be sure to disconnect your battery beforehand, and use a good grounding point.

[mindset]

Ok, the bolt is completely bottomed out, or flush with the block. I do not have a welder but I have an air rachet. It fits perfectly behind there and if I could find some sort of socket with a drill bit attached to the end that would work excellent. Do they make something like this at all?

And I appreciate all the help. Thanks.

Edit: Just found this attachment at Harbor Freight.

[My1GLaser]

No, they mean bottomed out as in the end of the bolt is touching the bottom of the bolt hole inside the block.

If it is, then there is more force on the threads that will keep the bolt from breaking loose.

If it isn't hitting the bottom of the hole then there isn't much force on the threads right now since the bolt head snapped off.

They make something called a left-handed drill bit. You put the drill in reverse to drill. If the bolt isn't bottomed out then the bit might grab it and start turning it out of the hole once it starts drilling into it.

[talondave]

You might think im crazy, but i had this work once on a broken bolt!!
Take a pop sickle stick and put some super glue on the end of the stick and put it up to the broken bolt and let it dry.. If the bolt isn't stuck real bad, it should come right out!!! Hope this works for you!!

[mindset]

Originally Posted by My1GLaser

No, they mean bottomed out as in the end of the bolt is touching the bottom of the bolt hole inside the block.

If it is, then there is more force on the threads that will keep the bolt from breaking loose.

If it isn't hitting the bottom of the hole then there isn't much force on the threads right now since the bolt head snapped off.

They make something called a left-handed drill bit. You put the drill in reverse to drill. If the bolt isn't bottomed out then the bit might grab it and start turning it out of the hole once it starts drilling into it.

Ok, well how could I tell if its bottomed out?

And about those left handed drill bits I bought some of those and these:
Amazon.com: Black & Decker 16270 Screw Extractor Set, 5-Piece: Home Improvement

I can't even see the left handed bits working because they're not meant to grab, just drill. So I think the B&D Extractor Set will do better.

If that attachment thing doesn't work I'm going to buy a Air Angle Die Grinder and see if that works since its even more compact.

I have lots of options right now. Just gotta wait till tomorrow.

[XLR8]

Same issue here, got a new car recently and after checking it over found that the ac spacer bolt was snapped off with no threads showing, not sure if it was bottomed out or not. I do not know if I want to pull the whole engine just to fix that. I may try the mount removal and angle drill.

[daren_p]

Originally Posted by mindset

Ok, well how could I tell if its bottomed out?

Just try different methods to see if you can get the bolt to spin. Use a hammer & center punch at the side of the bolt, on an angle, tapping it in a counterclockwise direction. Or try to crazy glue or jb weld something to the bolt that you can spin by hand or put a socket, vise grips, etc on.

Like mentioned if the end of the bolts not bottomed out, it should come out without all that much force. Just be careful if you are trying to glue things to the bolt end as you don't want to bond the bolt, itself to the block

[mindset]

Update:

Had drilled a pretty well centered hole in the bolt. When I used a black and decker extractor, it snapped off replugging the damn hole. The way the extractor broke made like a ridge so when I went to drill another hole it was off centered but I can't tell if it's hitting the threads. I've broke several drill bits just by putting too much force on it because that bolt is hard to drill through. Not to mention when you try and center the bit again it just slips off in a different area of the bolt. If that damn extractor never broke it'd be out right now. I actually took the smallest spherical carbide bit I had and grinded down the ridge but the extractor still won't budge or come out. Once I figure out to make a nicer hole I have a better set of extractors and we'll see what happens then.

[kmv]

Don’t bother using another extractor it will brake again it happen to me. You have two option, one is to drill out the hole and re tap it for a larger bolt. Second option Find a set of left handed drill bit then use it to drill out the hole for your extractor.
The left landed drilling would loosen the bolt so the extractor won't brake again. if your lucking bolt will come out while drilling that how i got mine out didn't even need an extractor. i did all this using right angle drill with the block in car.

[dsmfa9nutter]

Find someone with a welder and try welding a nut on there. Start with a small dollop on top, let it cool, add to it, let it cool, add to it, let it cool, stick a nut on there and pool the weld in the hole. If it's done right, you should be able to unscrew it.

[Calan]

Ummm... hopefully he's got it out by now.

For future reference, Mitsu makes a spacer just for this so you don't have to screw around with a stack of washers. I believe the PN is MB297732.

[mindset]

Well... I guess I'll update this.

This was possibly the biggest pain in the ass. It was most definitely bottomed out with loads of torque. Possibly 100+ftlbs. Drill bits were breaking, taps breaking, everything WAS BREAKING! I don't know if it says it above but the B&D Extractor broke off plugging the hole. I eventually drilled into to it and hit it with a punch eventually breaking it getting my original well centered hole in the bolt. I bought a Grade 8 bolt that was approx the size of the hole and when I went to tap it, the tap bottomed out (my fault this time!) and broke it *again*. Shit. I eventually was so fed up after that so I pulled my motor. I ended up taking a big ass drill bit and drilled. I broke the tip of the tap in the hole with a punch and tapped a new hole to a standard bolt . I really wanted to avoid that but I ended up buying new drill bits, a SPIFFY new right angle pneumatic drill lol and a new tap and die set. I mocked up the shaft and it held the rated 35 ftlbs spec. I also used 4 washers as a spacer.

And folks. Even with my compact right angle drill (not an attachment) it was close to impossible to drill a bigger hole STRAIGHT into the bolt due to the length. Even with a smaller drill bit it's hard to keep it steady.

Originally Posted by calan

ummm... Hopefully he's got it out by now.

for future reference, mitsu makes a spacer just for this so you don't have to screw around with a stack of washers. I believe the pn is mb297732.

Ohhhh man it took forever.