I'm trying to install my Intermediate Shaft but the bracket will not sit right on the block. There's still a gap on the driver side bolt. I've tried screwing both bolts in evenly, but nothing. The passenger side one will sit flush, but the driver side one has a 1/4" gap between the bracket and the block. I've searched and there is no definite answers.
Thanks.
____________________________
Mitch
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - 14b Power!
Advertisement
To browse the forums without the advertisements above, Login/Register
I assume you don't have AC?
The AC bracket fills in that gap. You can just use 4 flat washers to take up the extra space.
Yup.
If you aren't using the AC bracket, you will either need to chop off a portion of the AC bracket to use as a spacer, or fill the gap with the proper thickness of washers or a shim. Both bolts are a requirement.
____________________________
Tim Zimmer
2.3L, BW475, AEM, etc.
I really wish I would have heard this information a couple hours ago... I'm in deep shit now. Thanks for the help though.
My dad thought it would be a good idea to take a breaker bar and tighten it... after I told him a dozen times there's no reason a breaker bar would be needed if the spec on a bolt is 30 ft/lbs. Therefore, I said don't use it you're going to snap it... He walks inside and goes, you're not going to like me right now.. but I snapped the bolt off in the block. I could seriously vent right now for a good hour but I'm not.
____________________________
Mitch
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - 14b Power!
Last edited by mindset; 11-01-2009 at 05:40 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping"
Good luck. The easiest way to remove that bolt since you totally screwed yourself, is to completely remove the engine from the vehicle, place it on a stand, and drill out the bolt. Then use an easy-out and extract the bolt after it has been drilled.
Worst-case scenario, you will need to drill out the threads of the bolt hole, and install a heli-coil (M12 x 1.25mm).
You need both bolts in place to hold the halfshaft to the block. You "may" be able to get away using one bolt, but I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND AGAINST DOING SO.
Tell your father he seriously fcked up. I am sure he will not like hearing that.
If you are very capable with a 90-degree drill (angle drill), you *MAY* be able to drop the driver-side and front/rear motor mounts to lower/angle the engine down far enough to drill it out with it in the vehicle, but it will be no where as easy as outside the vehicle.
____________________________
Tim Zimmer
2.3L, BW475, AEM, etc.
Good luck. The easiest way to remove that bolt since you totally screwed yourself, is to completely remove the engine from the vehicle, place it on a stand, and drill out the bolt. Then use an easy-out and extract the bolt after it has been drilled.
Worst-case scenario, you will need to drill out the threads of the bolt hole, and install a heli-coil (M12 x 1.25mm).
You need both bolts in place to hold the halfshaft to the block. You "may" be able to get away using one bolt, but I would STRONGLY RECOMMEND AGAINST DOING SO.
Tell your father he seriously fcked up. I am sure he will not like hearing that.
If you are very capable with a 90-degree drill (angle drill), you *MAY* be able to drop the driver-side and front/rear motor mounts to lower/angle the engine down far enough to drill it out with it in the vehicle, but it will be no where as easy as outside the vehicle.
Yeah shit happens though. I'm not going to sit here and bash him on a website but he knows damn well what he got us into. I think were just going to try drilling it, then an easy out but who knows. How does that heli coil work? Does it just take place of the threads that are drilled out?
*I like the idea of removing the mounts. This is going to be fun!
Ok, what do you think of if we first drilled a hole in the bolt, then threaded it, then loctited/jbwelded another bolt in it. Then take a breaker bar or impact to get it out.
____________________________
Mitch
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - 14b Power!
Last edited by mindset; 11-02-2009 at 08:54 PM.
Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping"
An 'Easy-out' is used by drilling a small hole in the broken bolt, then insert the easyout into the hole, and unscrew the bolt. Hopefully it comes out smoothly.
If not, you'll have to use a bigger drill and drill out the whole bolt. Then you'll need to use a helicoil kit to repair the threads so you can use the same size bolt again.
Or you could drill it out and tap new threads for the next size larger bolt.
____________________________
11.514 on a 14b
10.77 on a GT35
An 'Easy-out' is used by drilling a small hole in the broken bolt, then insert the easyout into the hole, and unscrew the bolt. Hopefully it comes out smoothly.
If not, you'll have to use a bigger drill and drill out the whole bolt. Then you'll need to use a helicoil kit to repair the threads so you can use the same size bolt again.
Or you could drill it out and tap new threads for the next size larger bolt.
Yea, I know what an easy-out is... just didn't understand how a heli-coil worked.
____________________________
Mitch
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - 14b Power!
When he snapped off the bolt did he happen to bottom the bolt out in the block? If your lucky & he didn't, the snapped off bolt probably doesn't have much torque on it & you may be able to remove it without drilling, etc. I know a couple locals had to deal with this recently. They tried the angle drill with no luck as there wasn't enough room. They lucked out, not having the bolt bottomed out. I'd have to see if I could dig it up but I think they just used a center punch & hammer, & very slowly spun the bolt, working its way back out.
Also if the bolt didn't snap off flush in the block, vise grips should do the trick, again if he didn't bottom the bolt out.
When he snapped off the bolt did he happen to bottom the bolt out in the block? If your lucky & he didn't, the snapped off bolt probably doesn't have much torque on it & you may be able to remove it without drilling, etc. I know a couple locals had to deal with this recently. They tried the angle drill with no luck as there wasn't enough room. They lucked out, not having the bolt bottomed out. I'd have to see if I could dig it up but I think they just used a center punch & hammer, & very slowly spun the bolt, working its way back out.
Also if the bolt didn't snap off flush in the block, vise grips should do the trick, again if he didn't bottom the bolt out.
Also, if there are exposed threads, you could always mig-weld a nut onto the bolt and then spin it out.
If you are going to weld a nut on, be sure to disconnect your battery beforehand, and use a good grounding point.
____________________________
Tim Zimmer
2.3L, BW475, AEM, etc.
Ok, the bolt is completely bottomed out, or flush with the block. I do not have a welder but I have an air rachet. It fits perfectly behind there and if I could find some sort of socket with a drill bit attached to the end that would work excellent. Do they make something like this at all?
And I appreciate all the help. Thanks.
Edit: Just found this attachment at Harbor Freight.
____________________________
Mitch
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - 14b Power!
No, they mean bottomed out as in the end of the bolt is touching the bottom of the bolt hole inside the block.
If it is, then there is more force on the threads that will keep the bolt from breaking loose.
If it isn't hitting the bottom of the hole then there isn't much force on the threads right now since the bolt head snapped off.
They make something called a left-handed drill bit. You put the drill in reverse to drill. If the bolt isn't bottomed out then the bit might grab it and start turning it out of the hole once it starts drilling into it.
You might think im crazy, but i had this work once on a broken bolt!!
Take a pop sickle stick and put some super glue on the end of the stick and put it up to the broken bolt and let it dry.. If the bolt isn't stuck real bad, it should come right out!!! Hope this works for you!!
No, they mean bottomed out as in the end of the bolt is touching the bottom of the bolt hole inside the block.
If it is, then there is more force on the threads that will keep the bolt from breaking loose.
If it isn't hitting the bottom of the hole then there isn't much force on the threads right now since the bolt head snapped off.
They make something called a left-handed drill bit. You put the drill in reverse to drill. If the bolt isn't bottomed out then the bit might grab it and start turning it out of the hole once it starts drilling into it.
Same issue here, got a new car recently and after checking it over found that the ac spacer bolt was snapped off with no threads showing, not sure if it was bottomed out or not. I do not know if I want to pull the whole engine just to fix that. I may try the mount removal and angle drill.
____________________________
Chad
92 Elantra - 4g63 powered
92 Tsi
Just try different methods to see if you can get the bolt to spin. Use a hammer & center punch at the side of the bolt, on an angle, tapping it in a counterclockwise direction. Or try to crazy glue or jb weld something to the bolt that you can spin by hand or put a socket, vise grips, etc on.
Like mentioned if the end of the bolts not bottomed out, it should come out without all that much force. Just be careful if you are trying to glue things to the bolt end as you don't want to bond the bolt, itself to the block
Had drilled a pretty well centered hole in the bolt. When I used a black and decker extractor, it snapped off replugging the damn hole. The way the extractor broke made like a ridge so when I went to drill another hole it was off centered but I can't tell if it's hitting the threads. I've broke several drill bits just by putting too much force on it because that bolt is hard to drill through. Not to mention when you try and center the bit again it just slips off in a different area of the bolt. If that damn extractor never broke it'd be out right now. I actually took the smallest spherical carbide bit I had and grinded down the ridge but the extractor still won't budge or come out. Once I figure out to make a nicer hole I have a better set of extractors and we'll see what happens then.
____________________________
Mitch
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD - 14b Power!
Don’t bother using another extractor it will brake again it happen to me. You have two option, one is to drill out the hole and re tap it for a larger bolt. Second option Find a set of left handed drill bit then use it to drill out the hole for your extractor.
The left landed drilling would loosen the bolt so the extractor won't brake again. if your lucking bolt will come out while drilling that how i got mine out didn't even need an extractor. i did all this using right angle drill with the block in car.
