6 pluck bad for AWD?

[Backinajiffy12]

So my 2.1 - Carbon Kevlar disc with 3k on it is already slipping cause it cant handle the torque. So i was atlking to a buddy about upgrading to a stage 3 and he was teling me that a 6 pluck is bad for AWD saying that it puts a lot more stress on the flywheel and can be bad for the crank. is that true?

 

[wishnfor4g63T]

I'm currently running an ACT 6 puck 2600 series clutch. After the break in it's pretty comfortable to use in my opinion. The stress you put on your tranny is going to be however much you launch the car. The clutch isn't going to slip as long as you buy the right clutch for your amount of tq. I'm sure you have an understanding of that. i've had mine for around 6k miles now and the 1k were a pain to break it in. Enjoyed every minute tho because the stock clutch slipped like a B*****. Anyhow i'd say buy it but if you want to keep your tranny together don't launch it on a daily basis..Our trannies "aren't" bulletproof.

 

[Defiant]

You should go with a 12-string.

 

[hatch]

You should go with a 12-string.

#2. No insults, name calling, smart ass replies, or any other replies that violate our posting policies.

Just sayin'

 

[jjgrizz73]

its also different if you know D and his humor.

The 6 puck will be fine after break in period as stated. What kind of pressure plate are you using??

 

[Backinajiffy12]

Right now just the Fidanza 2.1 but im going to either buy a ACT 2100 or a Fidanza 4.3

 

[Burnett03]

You should go with a 12-string.

Awesome help..


I run a 6 "pluck" clutch on my awd and i love it. I actually prefer a puck clutch to a non now and i use the 2900 pressure plate which feels softer and easier to push than a 2600 due to it's design. I have yet to break anything on my jack tranny with this combo. I highly suggest a NON sprung 6 puck.

 

[Backinajiffy12]

So I should get a ACT MB1-HDR6 instead of a ACT MB1-HDG6

 

[2gGSX]

Another happy "6 pluck" user here--a Fidanza 4.3.

 

[Defiant]

Just sayin'

Yeah. There's also some pretty explicit rules about grammar, spelling, descriptive thread titles, and sassing the Moderators. Noob.

 

[twicks69]

The 6-puck clutch disk is a decent clutch disk, but it can be quite harsh for street and drag racing.

If you are regularly in stop and go traffic, you can overheat the clutch disk quite easily because it retains alot of heat. If you are using it with an aluminum flywheel, it may cause damage to the replacable friction surface because it will absorb the heat from the clutch disk and cause it to warp or "bowl" itself, causing clutch engagement issues along with reduced surface area engagement, resulting in excessive clutch disk wear and eventually puck delamination.

As well, a puck-style disk can be quite harsh to the transmission on high-rpm clutch-dumping launches, and can really jolt the transmission. It is common to strip off the gear teeth on 1st or 2nd gear with heavy launches or wheelspin shifts. If you are going to go with a 6-puck, get ready to be replacing broken transmission parts or axles if you are being harsh on it.

To prevent transmission and axle breakage, I would strongly recommend having upgraded motor mounts (especially front and rear mounts) to reduce the likelyhood of wheelhop, and keep a good suspension on the car with no worn out parts. A blown strut up front with a bit of wheel hop can cause quite a bit of damage to axles and the front differential.

I usually recommend a 6-puck sprung-hub clutch disk for people that are road-racing, or street driving with high-HP setups ONLY if they are not launching the car regularly, or not doing too much stop-and-go driving.

You have to remember, 6-pucks grab more the more heat they absorb. Unfortunately, they also have a higher wear on the pressure plate and the flywheel friction surface, causing hot-spots, warping, and increased wear or damage.


I still recommend the South Bend Clutch Kevlar disk with an ACT2600 PP:

The product can be found here:
South Bend Clutch Disks from HorsepowerFreaks



I have been told recently, that South Bend Clutch has been using a different clutch hub on this disk. It is now an Exedy 4-spring hub, whereas the older style disk used 3 springs and 3 rubber dampeners. The new hub has beefier springs and is supposed to be a bit better -- we'll see though. The clutch disk retails for $160.00, and is a well-proven disk that can support over 500 Torque without problems, while lasting substantially longer than an organic disk, and is much less harsh on driveline components and the flywheel.
When you installed your carbon/kevlar disk, did you replace the pressure plate with a new one, along with a proper resurfacing of the flywheel at the correct step height? If these parts aren't perfectly smooth, it will cause excessive wear, along with reduced engagement of any style clutch disk and will cause slipping or worse.

 

[jrohner]

I have a Fidanza 4.3 in my car, and it worked fine for a little while but it broke -- probably less than a couple thousand miles on it. It's all loose so the car surges bad at slow speeds and I can hear the hub slop back and forth. Pieces got caught in my pressure plate so at times it randomly won't disengage. I only made 2 passes down an 1/8th mile and a couple more launches on the street. I never dump the clutch and I launch at around 4 grand.

 

[Backinajiffy12]

When you installed your carbon/kevlar disk, did you replace the pressure plate with a new one, along with a proper resurfacing of the flywheel at the correct step height? If these parts aren't perfectly smooth, it will cause excessive wear, along with reduced engagement of any style clutch disk and will cause slipping or worse.

Yes I got a new flywheel and have the 2.1 pressure plate as well