Cluth slipping when boost hits, 2nd gear and up

[Fayt]

Alright, if anyone has read my other posts I have had a nightmare of a 2g. BUT, I finally got it running again! There is only one major problem...

I have a new tranny (11k miles), new fidanza flywheel, and an ACT clutch. Clutch and flywheel have less than 100 miles on them right now. The problem is though, I can't get my clutch to adjust right. In 2nd gear and up, once the turbo spools up, the clutch will slip off. 1st gear is fine for some reason. I tried adjusting it using both the cruise switch and the cylinder rod. It adjusted fine, engagement point was about 1/2 way down... but after about 10 minutes of driving it went back to engaging right at the top. Is there any special way to adjust it and make it stay? I put the locking bolt back into place for the cylinder and the cruise switch.

I'll try readjusting it again today... anybody have any other ideas though?

 

[fwdeclipse]

Did you break the clutch in for 300 miles?Also if you installed it did you torque the pressure plate in a star pattern.I did my first clutch two years ago and I did not torque that in a star pattern and my clutch would slip when I would get on it.It may have been worse than yours cause mine would do it under any acceleration.I took it back off and re did it over again and it was fine.

 

[andymoraitis]

Chris has a very valid point in his post. You may also want to make sure that the clutch master and slave are properly bled and that you don't have any air bubbles or leaks in the lines as this can consistently change the engagement point. Also, try setting engagement lower since going past a certain point on the 2G will lead to pedal pump up and a release point at the very top.

Let us know what you find,

Andy

 

[RavenX]

Once you do all the suggestions mentioned if they don't work then switch to a 1g awd slave cylinder which has a smaller piston and gives you a bit of more throw. That SHOULD fix the problem if the other suggestions don't work.

 

[daren_p]

Sounds like pedal pump up to me. Adjust the pedal so it starts to engauge about 1/3rd the way up & adjust the stop so the clutch pedal is inline with the brake pedal. Pedal pump will cause inconsistant pedal engaugement & the clutch can slip since its like your driving with your foot on the clutch, which is also hard on the thrust bearing.

 

[jtmcinder]

In case you don't know, to deal with pump-up you need to provide more free play at the top. You do this by moving the cruise-control switch back.

- Jtoby

 

[OB1]

Make sure your cluch fork is sitting roughly in the centre of the slot in the tranny where it sticks out. If you got a worn fork or pivot ball you will never get the clutch to engage properly.

See RRE clutch adjustment for more details.

 

[Fayt]

Well, the adjustment fixed it. It was put so far in there it never vented and kept pumping. Now it's engaging about 1/2 way down, no slippage... other problems still though.

Fuel cut at about 4500 in 2nd+ gears... probably because of the Evo turbo, but the boost is still at stock levels. I have a walbro to put in to fix it though.

Also, my CEL is on for some reason, and my low oil light likes to blink sparadically (sp?). I don't have low oil, it just turns on and off while driving.

Last, when I first start my car, the BRAKE light is on (from the e-brake obviously), but when I start moving and the brake is down, the light still stays partly lit. Until I drive it for about 2-3 minutes, it stays just lit a little, along with the battery light. Any ideas?

 

[siceclipse]

I know that there is a sensor on your brake fluid res. that tripps the light if your low on fluid.

Check that.

 

[talonTSIDriver]

and my low oil light likes to blink sparadically (sp?). I don't have low oil, it just turns on and off while driving.

Replace your oil sensor down by the oil sending unit. There is a sensor down there that kicks that oil light on. Happen to me once, replace the $10 sensor and it goes away.

 

[daren_p]

For the clutch you can adjust it so it engages closer to the fllor. Its personal preferance but I like it to start to engage about 1/3rd the way up, this way you know the throw out bearing is completely releasing the pressure plate. As for the oil light, like other said more then likely a bad idiot light sending unit (there are 2 sender units one for the gauge & one for the light). Borrow a logger to see whats throwing the CEL. For the brake light, not to sure on that. Are you sure the brake lights are supposed to be on when the ebrake is on? I'm pretty sure the ebrake won't effect the lights....