Quick question, Shimming the pivot ball, How many washers?

[1993eclipseGS]

I just bought a brand new pivotball, clutch fork, master and slave cylinderm and throwout bearing.. How many washers should i put behind the pivot ball? I have an act2600 clutch.

I'll be doing this tomorrow at 5 so i'd appreciate it if someone would help me out with the answer. I have everything waiting to go back in.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Thank you, That is all I wanted to know.

 

[weith1111]

If its all new, I wouldn't shim it at all.

I'll back this up. If you are shimming the pivot ball, or putting a longer rod in the slave or any of the other "tricks" to make the 2600 work better, you are just covering up the problem, not fixing it. If everything is assembled correctly it will work perfect without rigging it.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Thanks.

Everything should be good then.

 

[falcone4g63]

http://www.teamrip.com/clutch adjustment.html

#5 and 7 should help you out.

 

[kwaliph]

What do you guys think of this? TRE TECH TIPS

It makes sense if you think about it but wouldnt bleeding the clutch automatically adjust the slave piston to the correct location?

I just did this "shimming the fulcrum" with two 2mm washers (thats 4mm overall) with much success so far. Before I did little research on the subject and went with the lengthened slave cyl rod (about 1/4" longer) and had my master cyl pushrod adjusted on the last 2 threads (NOT good, I know) but was necessary for the car to drive at all. Then i come apon this info about the correct step being different for aftermarket cluthes. And here I am, after all the research I could muster, have already taken action. I figured 4mm would suffice since .15" is just under 4mm, I figure my flywheel has been machined twice and made the assumption of .20" under. After a weekend of knuckle bustin, there are 4mm worth of shims under the fulcrum and the stock slave pushrod back in, its shifts flippin SWEET!

I still would suggest machining the flywheel to the correct step as a primary FIX, as the shimming is a patch. It just works for those who did not do the necessary homework BEFORE spending the mula and do not have the time or money to have the flywheel remachined.

My .02

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Sorry, This thread is over 3 years old! I did not shim the pivot ball though I remember clearly. I got a new clutch fork, Pivot ball from dsmparts.com.

 

[1fastlaser]

Regardless if your pivot ball, fork or new you should definatly put the trans in and bolt it up, and see were your clutch fork is when it is resting against the pressure plate. If its too the passenger side it should be shimmed.

Just because its a upgraded clutch thats a direct bolt in, dosent mean the clutch high is the same as a stock one. Ever notice when you take your stock clutch out and go to a aftermarket one, you gotta mess around with the master cylinder adjustment to get the release point back to mid clutch pedal swing?

 

[lowexpectations]

I have a question for you on this then. If what you say is true 1fastlaser, then explain this to me. If you adjusted the clutch master cylinder properly the first time to the point where the slave can be pushed in by hand, then why would you need to adjust any more? The valve in the master is still in the same point no matter what clutch you run.

 

[1fastlaser]

I have a question for you on this then. If what you say is true 1fastlaser, then explain this to me. If you adjusted the clutch master cylinder properly the first time to the point where the slave can be pushed in by hand, then why would you need to adjust any more? The valve in the master is still in the same point no matter what clutch you run.

I understand that completly, just like those extended slave cylinder rods do absolutly nothing. The thing is though. If you put the trans in, and the clutch fork is toward the passenger side, as the clutch wears the slave cylinder/rod will compensate for the disk wear, as even in the resurfaced flywheel, your pulled the clutch mm's away from the clutch fork.

So it ends up being made up for in maxxing out the master cylinder adjustment to the point were the clutch fork is acually hitting the inside of the case which ends up snapping the end of the rod off. By shimming it (ofcourse if it needs to be shimmed) it gives reasurance that the slave/rod will be able to compensate for clutch wear as the disk/disks get thinner.

I say this because i recently installed a PTT twin disk on a car, with a brand new built trans, pivot ball, and fork. It needed 4mm of shimming to put the fork in the right place. The clutch release fork hole is 55.5*mm in total width for the fork to swing (prob minus 2mm were it bottoms out). When installed without the shims, the fork resting on the clutch cover, it has 15.5*mm between the passenger side of the hole and the lever, so that gives you an idea of how far to one side it was. 4mm of shims gave us 25mm. Not the clutch dosent have to move as far to release, and you can back off the adjustment in the car alittle.

I mean, hasnt anyone ever did a clutch job on a car, going from a stock clutch to a act?! The half of dozen ive done, the engagement/disengagement point went from mid clutch swing, to the floor with a act etc. Always had to back the nut out 2-3 full turns on the master cylinder to get it back there.