2g awd clutch questions HELP!

[dzolcali]

Ok, my clutch is bad, I need a new one. I have a few questions about this though and I want real answers from people that drive dsms instead of the crx owners who think they know it all at my work.
Ok
1st question-if I daily drive and don't really race a lot, but I want a long lasting clutch for stop and go traffic. Should I get a stage2 or stage 3 racing clutch? the description for both clutches says daily driving and track performance.

2nd- If I buy an aftermarket clutch on my own, how much should I expect to have someone at a shop install it for me?

3rd- What are some good brand clutches

4th- Is awd clutches harder to do than fwd?

last question, if I buy something titled "clutch kit" do I still need to buy extra stuff to go along with that, like a flywheel or other things? If so should I get light weight flywheels or what I don't know much about this type of stuff so help is appreciated.

thanks

 

[Nanan]

Most of the DSM world use ACT or CM clutches, there are others out there but they are a minority.

Act come in 2100, 2600 and some god awful 3900 plate.
The CM-DF clutch is a 2500 lb plate but it feels softer then an ACT 2100.

Stage clutch? thats mostly honda talk, we tend to refer to clutches by their model.
I.E. ACT 2100 pressureplate and Organic disk, or 6-puck etc.

I have a CM-DF clutch kit that has a 2500lb PP and a dual friction disk. Its held up well doing the daily driving 35 miles a day, 16 Auto-X events, and 9 runs on a 1/4 mile track.

1)
For you I would suggest an ACT 2100 with street disk and a lightened factory flywheel or an ACT Moly flywheel.

2)
Shop installs very with location, it could be 300-1000 depending on their pricing system.

3)
ACT, CM, and RRE-X clutch(no-name) are all well known to the DSM community.

4)
AWD clutches are no harder to find then the FWD as far as I know and I drive an AWD car.


Clutch kit = pressure plate, friction disk, and usually TO bearing.
Lightened flywheels come in 3 general catagories, factory reground, aftermarket cast Moly/Steel, and Billet Aluminum. For daily drivers I would recommend a Moly FW such as the X-ACT Moly FW, the aluminum FW do tend to cause the engine to decelerate a bit to fast at times which can cause stalling.

I use an AL flywheel and I wish I had the Xact FW as I have had the car do the stall out crap alot when driving slow in parkinglots. I had to bump up my idle to 950/1000 rpm to help cut down on the stall.

 

[dzolcali]

these spec plates I saw have stage 1 daily driver and it's at 2,800 lbs, then stage 2 daily driver/track at 3100, and then they have the stage 3 at 4,000 some lbs. Not sure if getting a high weight or low weight disk is good or bad. someone told me the stage three would break my axles or something.

as far as fly wheel, are you positive the flywheel is causing your stall out problems or what? also do I have to get a new fly wheel with the clutch fix, or is that just what most people do when they do a new clutch. How much do fly wheels run roughly?
thank for any info dude you have been a big help

 

[Nanan]

these spec plates I saw have stage 1 daily driver and it's at 2,800 lbs, then stage 2 daily driver/track at 3100, and then they have the stage 3 at 4,000 some lbs. Not sure if getting a high weight or low weight disk is good or bad. someone told me the stage three would break my axles or something.

as far as fly wheel, are you positive the flywheel is causing your stall out problems or what? also do I have to get a new fly wheel with the clutch fix, or is that just what most people do when they do a new clutch. How much do fly wheels run roughly?
thank for any info dude you have been a big help

Their first step is a 2800 lb pressureplate? ah bud you are better off to stick with an ACT 2600 , its a well tested and well known unit.
For stage 2 and 3, wtf thats crazy, you would break tranny parts and axles if you side stepped the clutch. You would also need to start working on the power sled at a fitness place cause your left leg would be like 3x your right legs size.

Yes having a super light AL flywheel drasticly reduces the rotating mass so the engine decelerates much faster then it did stock.

Do this:
ACT 2600lb pressure plate
ACT Street Disk
ACT X-ACT Moly Flywheel
Mitsu OEM TO bearing
Mitsu OEM Fork
Braided Stainless clutch line

 

[dzolcali]

k thanks bro
flywheel?

 

[Omega]

For a daily driven car I would recomend the ACT 2100 or the 2600. Since you're AWD and would like to race a little, the 2600 would be a slightly better choice.. netting a slightly larger calf muscle. The ACT and CF are tried and true products. Go with products that work, not ones that are trendy *ahem* staged parts *ahem*

Nanan is on the right track with the SS line, TOB and fork. Don't forget a new fork ball and shim it 1.5 - 2.0mm out.

I completely disagree with the lightweight flywheel. I find them an absolute whore to drive on the streets. Very little gains for the money and you're not building a track car. That is just me.

The one thing you must NOT overlook is the flywheel step height. If this is overlooked, you will bi*** about the shifting within miles of getting everything back together. Check out the link from RRE. Read the whole page, it covers the pedal adjustment too, that combined with the correct step height will give you smooth shifts.

 

[dsmpride]

Just from a little experience, I would not recommend going with the ACT 2100. Awd cars in general are extremely hard on clutches even if you don't race a lot. I pulled my 2100 out after about 10k on it and it looked like it was almost ready to be replaced. I would say go with a 2600 with a street disc or a spec stage II or III. I know that the stage III looks too aggressive for a daily driver but I have it in my AWD and it is nice for racing because of the pucked disc and daily driving because the pedal feel is pretty nice and disc has a sprung center. Anyway my 2 cents.

 

[dzolcali]

ok I got the ACT 2600 kit, I got a Fidanza 8lb flywheel, and a Stainless clutch line...seeing as sometimes i miss shift even though the clutch was in...i'm pretty sure the line was swelling.

The shop said 414$ to install it all...

as far as the fork's and all that jazz...my cars only got 25,000 miles on it as of now...so I really don't think I will need that stuff just yet.

Evidently the person before me dogged on the clutch a little much, and then I had two seperate friends who owned tsi's and gsx's and they decided to go burn my clutch out and then tell me "oh man your clutch is bad"...yeah cause you just slipped it out at 6,000 rpms, that could be why?

####ing friends eh.
anyways does this sound like a good set up?

 

[1fast97gsx]

What exactly are you asking or saying?

 

[dzolcali]

as in, does the act clutch kit listed, plus the Stainless steel line, and the alluminum flywheel sound like a good set up...like if you had this on your car would you be happy with it, or would you say, #### this shit I need more/less..
yeah

man gas prices suck right now, all the gas stations here sold out of gas and that shit was 3.15 a gallon ####ing aye.