underhood shift kit bushing ?

[90DSMTurboFWD]

Ok I read that people have gotten them to work but today i went down to a store and bought a couple. I removed the old bushings and tried to fir the rollerblade bearings in. No good. Got a C-clamp like people suggested, broke that in half. i went the hardware store and bought a brand new one and tried it, the damn thing wouldnt move. What size C-clamps did those of you that got it to work use? Are my bearings not the right ones??

 

[Morphius]

Good question. I just picked up a set for myself and my brother, but we have yet to install them. I was curious how "tight" the pressfit was. Sound like it's TIGHT.

Can anyone speak to this?

 

[FearceDSM]

I just did the rollerblade bearing mod. It's a real tight fit, but it will work. Takes patience because there is no room to get a good position for leverage to fit them in. Also, when you get them in, use washers to take up the slack on the rod that it connects to. Right up to the cotter pin. Also be careful not to damage the casings on the bearings. This mod and the shifter plate bushing mod is one of the best mods you could do. Just in case you are wondering, I used washers from Home Depot for my shifter plate bushing replacement. Make sure that you get a washer that fits in the hole of the shifter plate so it will not shift around. Then get enough washers for the top and bottom so that it will equal the same thickness as the metal piece in the stock rubber bushing. Rollerblade bearings $3.00, washers from Home Depot $1.50, DSM that shifts like butta, priceless. I spent $4.50 and 2 hours and saved myself $50. If it is a 2g get a B&M short shifter set at 50%. Then just put in some Penzoil Syncomesh. That stuff is like Butta. After all those mods, it made me love my car even more, if that is even possible.

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

Did you use a really big C-clamp, because I have maxed out the one I was using, although it was kinda small. i got it to a point that it wouldnt turn anymore, I even broke one of the c-clamps

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

Also for the washer, Do you want to get thick washers or just any washers that raise it off the bottom of the car a little? And you need one to go between the car and the plat, then one to go between the plate and the top of the bolts correct?

 

[FearceDSM]

I am not sure about 1g's but on a 2g AWD there is not alot of room to work with in the engine bay. I used the biggest c clamp I could fit. The bigger the better because it is a very tough fit. To be honest, I got only 3/4 of the bearing in and filled it in with washers that fit in the ring. It took alot to get the bearing in so much that I would assume the force it would take to get them out would be the same as getting them in. So the chances of them coming out is probably never. When you have done that add larger diameter washers on each side of the ring until it lines up to the cotter pin hole. Make sure the outer washers are bigger than the ring in diameter. I used 5 washer total on each fitting. Here is how it would go: 2 washers, fitting w/ bearing , 2 washers, original washer, then insert cotter pin.

As for the shifter plate, the most important thing is to find the washer that will fit in the hole of the shifter plate w/ the same size hole for the bolt to go through when you take out the rubber ones. From there, you will need to get washers of bigger diameter that will go on both sides of the plate that will cover the shifter plate hole as much as possible. As big as you can get in there. The easiest way is to take the stock rubber bushing out first and take out the metal fitting in them. From there, you will stack washers until they are the same thickness of the metal fitting. Make sure one of the washers in that stack is the one that fills the hole in the shifter plate. I ended up using 5 washers on each bolt. Here is how it went: 2 washers, then washer that fills the plate hole, then 2 washers, then the bolt. You would think that the washers should be as thick as the rubber bushing, but when it is cranked down, the metal fitting is what creates the actual space. Also I used as any washers up top as bottom because I anted to make sure that the bolt would be in the original position. Sorry this is such a long post, but I wanted to save as much time for you as I can. But then again, you have used alot of time reading this post. But it's well worth the time. Good luck. Let me know how you make out in this.

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

Cool Thanks. The only problem with mine is that when I bought the car, the guy had removed all the stock rubber fittings under the shifter plate, So I have to just stack some washer up. So it goes two washers, then the shifterplate, then another two washers, then the bolt?

As for the bearings, I am going over to my uncles, he has some pretty big C-clamps so i will see how that turns out.

 

[FearceDSM]

You still need a washer that will fit into the hole of the plate. That particular washer holds the plate in its place. Without that washer filling in the hole, the plate will move when shifting and that will make it hard to get into the gears. It is 2 washers, washer to fill the hole in the plate, then 2 more washers, then bolt. That is 5 washers total. There are people that do not use this mod because they complain about the plate moving around and that you should buy made kit made specifically. That middle washer is what will fix the movement. Why spend $20-30 on kits when all you have to do is spend $1.50 and the time at the hardware store to look for the washers. This mod and the other mod will save you around $50 which could be better spent on parts that you could not duplicate yourself. By the way, these mods will take out most of the slack and it will feel more direct. Some say it will feel clunky, but IMHO that is not the case. To me it feels like all the energy being directed to the desired action and eliminating the unwanted. Good luck and keep me posted.

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

well i got the bearings in...kinda. I used a giant 6 inch c-clamp me, my dad, and my giant ripped cousin, and we still couldnt get it in all the way. it is in kinda at an angle and I would say maybe 1/2 the way in. So i said screw it an filled the rest with washers and slapped um back on. It works a lot better then the stock crap, but I'll have to see how it holds up against high rev shifting, hopefully they wont pop out.

Thanks a lot for the info about the shifter plate too, I think i am gunna run down the Home Depot and get some washers for that and do it next weekend.

Big help!

 

[Rhino]

Does anyone have the numbers for the right washers to be used in the shifter plate mod? I just don't want to be lookin around Home Depot for something of a size I know nothing about.

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

it really isnt that hard to look for some washers...they have a wide selection, you basicly need any large washers for the top, the only one that you would have to 'look' for would be the one that goes in the middle.

 

[FearceDSM]

Originally posted by 90DSMTurboFWD
it is in kinda at an angle and I would say maybe 1/2 the way in.

I think you should try to get the bearing as evenly in as possible. I stress the word evenly. The angle might cause something to shift in the wrong alignment. Possibly bending or even ruining something. I know its a pain to do, but just think of the money saved and how nice it will shift. That is what kept me sane. It pays off because I got 3/4 of the bearing in evenly and that is in the engine bay of a 2g AWD. Elbow grease babay, that's the ticket.

 

[Laser-man]

can someone explain this mod to me, sounds good but i dont understand. im talking about the roller blade bearing mod.

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

It just wont go in anymore or evenly. My dad is a big guy, he is 6 foot 4 and about 300 pounds and he got it to a point where he couldnt turn it anymore. We broke on c-clamp, and bent the hell out of two other ones. It just wont go anymore

The rollerbearing mod is fairly simple but takes a lot of strength and time. This is the how-to however instead of the brass fittings just used Rollerblade bearings you can buy at any kinda sports store. Also you have to use a C-clamp (Biggest one you can find) to push them in.)

I cant get a link to work but go to www.vfaq.com click on the shifter link and go down until you see "Speed Source metal shifter cable bushing instal"

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

Got it to work

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/SpeedSourceShifterBushings.html

 

[leet]

Wow, I used the smallest c-clamp possible. Had no problems with this mod. Then again, I used REALLY nice ABEC-5 bearings .

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

Maybe the Gen 2 has bigger slots? I dunno I have to say mine has been a bi***.

 

[AfflictedPast]

Mine wern't too hard, i used a big pair of vice grips to push em in.

 

[GTM]

Originally posted by 90DSMTurboFWD
Got it to work

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/SpeedSourceShifterBushings.html

Any reason to not use a fine thread grade 7 bolt, washers, and nut to draw this in so you don't keep breaking "C" clamps??

Cheers,
GTM

 

[90DSMTurboFWD]

That might also work, however i think the key is to get it started straight. I think the problem with mine was that it started to go in croocked and it just became harder and harder. I might pick up some shift linkage and try it again, I mean even with the things in the way they are, I can feel a hell of a difference. I just did the washer mod today and I have to say it has improved 100%. For the guy that asked about what size washers to get:
Get 8 8mm flat washers for the inside ones, and 16 larger washers of any size, but i would say when you put two together, they should be about 1/4 inch thick. You put two of the large washers, then two of the 8mm washers then two more large, followed by the bolt.

 

[Morphius]

Geez, not sure why everyone is having so much trouble doing this mod. I just did it today and it took longer to get the aircleaner assembly out than to put the bearings in. All of five minutes. I just used plumbers pliers for that matter. No huge clamp.

Did anyone think of using some 300 or 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and lightly running it on the inside of the cable ring? Don't know about anyone elses, but mine was dirty. After doing this I pressed them in by hand halfway. Used the pliers to finish them off.

 

[BUCK]

Merry Christmas Morf - You'll be the only one quick enuff to get this without 18 posts but I put a Teflon bushing on the spindle of the shaft off the shifter cable dog at the Tranny where the cable moves the Tranny shaft up & down - Thereby taking all the slack out of the up & down movement - It greatly improved shifting & greatly lessened slop at the shifter itself.

 

[Morphius]

Originally posted by BUCK
Merry Christmas Morf - You'll be the only one quick enuff to get this without 18 posts but I put a Teflon bushing on the spindle of the shaft off the shifter cable dog at the Tranny where the cable moves the Tranny shaft up & down - Thereby taking all the slack out of the up & down movement - It greatly improved shifting & greatly lessened slop at the shifter itself.

Merry Christmas to you Buck!! Your mod sounds like a good one. I'll have to look at that. Happen to have any pics? Bushing thickness?

 

[cubedmayhem]

I just saw the underhood kit and was wondering if this would make any difference. Is anyone using them or are they just a waste of $8.

 

[BGGSTin]

I installed a B&M shifter at the same time so it may have also helped with this, not sure how much they do by "themselves", but it seemed like it just made it stiffer for the quick shifts, i didnt really notice it much if I baby it but when you try to "bang" through the gears it's noticeably stiffer, more defined pattern. Either that or it's all in my head that they stiffened it up I'd recommend it though if you shift quick regularly