Welded VC/3 Bolt Rear

[4G63dsmpwr]

Hey everyone I have a 90 AWD with the dreaded 3 bolt rear, and an ACT2100..

I was looking into getting a welded VC. I've heard it really helps out with the 60' times. I had a few other questions about it, any other opinions would be great!

Will the welded VC put alot of extra stress through the 3 bolt rear?

This is my daily driver - what do you guys, who run it the same think about this?

Any opinions from people who have driven cars with one would be great! Thanks!

 

[GRNDSM]

>Will the welded VC put alot of extra stress through the 3 bolt rear?

YES! You should not run 3 bolt rear end with a locked center diff. Come to think of it, you should not be running 3 bold rear end if you are racing, period!

>This is my daily driver - what do you guys, who run it the same think about this?

You should not be running a locked center diff on your daily driver! You are two for two now

The main reason to get a VCE is because it offers you an opportunity to lock your center diff relatively fast (~30 min). The alternative of using a welded center diff or a spool, will take 3-4 times longer to change. But the beauty of VCE is that is it is easily reversible, so that you do not need to drive it on the street!

And if you do not have a 4 spyder gear center diff, your VCE usage should be limited to dyno testing as you are likely to break a standard 2 spyder gear center diff.

 

[4G63dsmpwr]

Damn, Leon you really know your stuff!

Thanks for an honest opinion! I won't be getting into the welded VC quite yet then, the last thing I need is drivetrain troubles!

 

[LilGdsm]

Damn, Leon you really know your stuff!

Thanks for an honest opinion! I won't be getting into the welded VC quite yet then, the last thing I need is drivetrain troubles!

well you could go fwd for daily if you really wanted to have the welded center diff for racing. but that's a real pain in the ass pulling each time. I'm getting use to it considering I'm going through u-joints like oil changes. the spool has come in handy several times when I drop the shaft and need to make it home...

 

[GRNDSM]

the spool has come in handy several times when I drop the shaft and need to make it home...

Right, of course, there you have good old “chicken or the egg” question: “Would you have dropped the shaft had you not had a spool?”

Also, are you using aftermarket u-joints?

Leon

 

[LilGdsm]

Right, of course, there you have good old “chicken or the egg” question: “Would you have dropped the shaft had you not had a spool?”

Also, are you using aftermarket u-joints?

Leon

yes, spicer u-joints a favorite amoung 4x4 guys that have a issue snapping u joints. I'm giving them one more try and if it happens again, I'm going to dish out the extra $20 a ujoint for oem's.

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

yes, spicer u-joints a favorite amoung 4x4 guys that have a issue snapping u joints. I'm giving them one more try and if it happens again, I'm going to dish out the extra $20 a ujoint for oem's.

Ive got a pair of OEM driveshafts for sale, if anyone needs one

 

[GRNDSM]

yes, spicer u-joints a favorite amoung 4x4 guys that have a issue snapping u joints. I'm giving them one more try and if it happens again, I'm going to dish out the extra $20 a ujoint for oem's.

I have seen factory u-joints fail due to age and wear. I have never seen factory u-joints fail due to stress… And I have often seen AFTERMARKET u-joints due to stress…

So why don’t you go ahead and break another set before you switch back OEM .

BTW, I have said it before, but it worth repeating: the cheapest way to buy a OEM front U-joint (I am not sure if it is the same as rear), is to buy a factory “transfer case yoke recall kit”. This $30 kit come with $70 U-joint (as well as with a new style yoke, another ~$50 part). You got to love that math .

Leon