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Drivetrain Tech: 4G63 transmission, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, gears, differentials, transfer case, shifter, etc.

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Old 09-25-2004, 07:46 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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driveshaft / transfer case rattle


I've posted about this a few times before, but no one seemed to have an answer at all....
after some long searching, i found a post of a person who had the same problem as me.
http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showt...ght=driveshaft

there's a link. does anyone have a follow-up to that?? did it ever get fixed? i know for a fact that my transfer case is not leaking at all. my car is a 97 talon. i know the transfer case has never been replaced either.
His problem describes mine to a tee.... always thought it was a noisy heatshield, until i got underneath the car. with the car on a lift, and running, you can hold the revs at pretty much anything above 2500rpm, and it makes a horrible rattle noise. you can put your hand on the driveshaft and feel it. its up at the front where it connects to the transfer case. i've been to 3 mechanics, been on the phone with 2 mitsu dealerships, and still no answers.
just the other day, my front-most u-joint on the driveshaft failed. i was just backing out of my driveway, and the dang thing fell on the ground. i think that it was due to the vibration. i really want to get this thing fixed, but i dont know what to do.
If ANYONE has some info on this, i would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
-Tim


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Old 09-26-2004, 02:03 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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Take it to a Chrysler dealer and have it inspected. Bone up on the recall information ahead of time.
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Old 09-26-2004, 08:50 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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my symptoms


while there is no booming sound associated with my car, there is this horribly loud, hard to explain rattle. it happens at anything around or above 2500rpm. 3000-4000rpm is the worst. you can just be parked, and free rev it to those rpms, and the horrible sound is there. when driving, if im accellerating, then it doesnt make the sound, but decel and cruising will produce the sound. i originally thought it may have been a u-joint causing this problem, so i bought one from a mitsu dealer, but when we got the car on the lift, the u-joints were fine.... the sound is coming from the dang transfer case collar area.
just the other day, my u-joint came apart, and im pretty sure it was due to the vibration over time. i still havnt fixed it yet. not looking forward to it at all.

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Old 09-26-2004, 10:28 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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if it happens while you are free reving then it can't be your transfer case. it doesn't see any rotation till your in gear and starting to move. other wise it is at rest.
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Old 09-26-2004, 01:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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no no no, it can be the transfer case... that's the only place to rattle right there. i can put my hand on it while it is rattling, and feel it... it has nothing to do with the rotation of the driveline at all. its where the driveshaft slips onto the transfer case tail section. all the splines look fine though. i dont know what i need to replace.

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Old 09-26-2004, 11:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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I would probably start looking into your tranny, it seems that's where all the trouble is coming from, but you cannot see it untill it exits outside at which point you can see/feel it on the t-case. And like the previous post said, it cant be the tcase because the car isnt moving, so it has to be inside the tranny.

Perhaps some loosely tightened bolts on the inside?! *ouch* .. maybe you had your tranny oil changed by an idiot, who knows, but from the way you describe it, it sounds pretty violent, and I would be scared to drive that thing anywhere except to the nearest shop.
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Old 09-27-2004, 07:37 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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i dont think it is inside the tranny... because, with the driveshaft removed from the transfer case, there is no rattle... i tried that today.
Also, i did find another rattle that wasnt noticeable because of the driveshaft rattle. It was my driver side CV shaft. it was loose. one of the boots was laced open. I'll be replacing that and the u-joint on the driveshaft tomorrow. hopefully there wont be anymore annoying sounds, but i kinda doubt it.
I'll keep everyone updated.
-Tim

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Old 04-09-2010, 02:54 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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I'm having what seems to be the exact same problem with my car right now....Did you fix the problem???

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Old 05-17-2010, 03:33 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Did this ever get resolved???? I am having the same kind of vibration that I can't find.
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:16 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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I have a similar problem. Except with me the car shakes ONLY when I put it in reverse and give it gas. Crazy. I really hope its not the t-case...
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:22 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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I have a similar problem. Except with me the car shakes ONLY when I put it in reverse and give it gas. Crazy. I really hope its not the t-case...
That could be your carrier bearings. Mine does that. I get it in both directions, but I can hear the drive shaft smack the exhaust when in reverse
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:39 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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driveshaft rattle


There was a driveshaft recall, where they replace the front yoke/slipshaft (that goes into the transfer case) they install a new yoke and universal joint. I only know this because I want to get a new U joint for the rear and the parts guy that I deal with gave me the "recall kit" because it was half the price of the u joint alone.

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Old 05-19-2010, 05:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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I just replaced all my u-joints. Only 39 bucks for the parts @ O'Reilly's. Would have been 10 bucks cheaper, but they only had two if the $9 u-joints, so I had to buy a $19 one. It didn't help my proglem, so now I know it is the carrier bearings.

I'm going to do the "thump fix", but I am going to suspend the driveshaft vertically so I can avoid the bearings causing a vibration because they are filled off-center (already experienced that one).
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:09 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomcasey View Post
I just replaced all my u-joints. Only 39 bucks for the parts @ O'Reilly's. Would have been 10 bucks cheaper, but they only had two if the $9 u-joints, so I had to buy a $19 one. It didn't help my proglem, so now I know it is the carrier bearings.

I'm going to do the "thump fix", but I am going to suspend the driveshaft vertically so I can avoid the bearings causing a vibration because they are filled off-center (already experienced that one).
My O'reilly u-joint at the rear diff lasted about 20 hard launches before the cap busted. The OEM ones are solid and the cap is also a solid piece with the seal inside. The O'reilly (or any parts house) are cross-drilled grease-able joints that are weaker than the OEM units. You can get the recall kit as mentioned for about $35 and harvest the u-joint from it.

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Old 05-19-2010, 05:17 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by VETDRMS View Post
My O'reilly u-joint at the rear diff lasted about 20 hard launches before the cap busted. The OEM ones are solid and the cap is also a solid piece with the seal inside. The O'reilly (or any parts house) are cross-drilled grease-able joints that are weaker than the OEM units. You can get the recall kit as mentioned for about $35 and harvest the u-joint from it.
All three u-joints I purchased and installed are not grease-able. They are solid, so were the end-caps. They must have changed the parts they buy.
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:47 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Stupid question but where are the carrier bearings and how do you replace them.
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:54 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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All three u-joints I purchased and installed are not grease-able. They are solid, so were the end-caps. They must have changed the parts they buy.
I wish I had a picture but I think I already threw it away. It did not have a grease zerk so it wasn't greaseable, but the cap broke.

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Old 05-19-2010, 08:57 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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Stupid question but where are the carrier bearings and how do you replace them.
They are the large rubber disks that the 3-piece drive-shaft runs through. There are two of them. They are kind-of a pain to replace, since you have to disassemble everything and remove them with a puller. I assume you could have a machine shop replace them for you. They cost 85-90 bucks each online

Quote:
Originally Posted by VETDRMS View Post
I wish I had a picture but I think I already threw it away. It did not have a grease zerk so it wasn't greaseable, but the cap broke.
Well, my TSi has a motor out of a GS with all the turbo accessories installed, so I do not see the power of a true turbo motor due to the almost guaranteed boost blow-by on the HC rings, so these u-joints should hold up fine for now.

Last edited by thomcasey; 05-19-2010 at 09:04 PM. Reason: Auto-merged with previous post to prevent "bumping" within a 24 hour period Tips on avoiding the auto-merge feature - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/faq.php?faq=vb_faq#faq_bumping
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