Mid 13's for <$1000 in mods good?

[Gooberlog]

Well i went to the track for my first time racing. My first run was better than my second even though my 60' on the second was better. Here are the #'s from my first/best run.
R/T 1.213
60' 1.861
330 5.603
1/8 8.703
MPH 79.86
1000 11.376
1/4 13.664
MPH 98.64
My mods are: 2.5"Catback, 2G ported Exhaust manifold, 7cm turbine housing on 14b turbo, ACT 2100, Hacked aircan w/K&N, MBC set to 16.5psi, Some weight mods, removed headlight, and a full tank of 94 octane opps.
When I logged the run, the knock went up to 25counts in some spots and the timing went as low as 12degrees. Since that raceday i've removed my 43pound front bumper support, 5mph bumpers and my one foglight. I also plan on mixing some race gas in next time maybe 2 gallons of 110. What kinda of ET's and knock/timing improvements do you think i should expect with these changes on the same boost or about 16?

 

[nineD5_GS-T]

either add racegas or lower the boost, that 25 knock count is killing your timing/et.

 

[Gooberlog]

Well on friday, i turned the boost to 16psi but hit fuel cut on the highway testing it out. So i backed the MBC to 15psi and when i went to the track i ran 100octane unleaded. The datalogger wasn't ready when i ran but my 60' was one tenth slower and i still droped a tenth off my E/T and gained 3mph. New best "second time at track" 13.54 @101mph. I'm guessing the slight weight reduction and the 100octane helped, i hope the gas lowered the knocks, but i couldn't watch from the logger. I'd like to mix some 110 next time.

 

[stuffy1256]

1.2 R/T????? i would work on that first.... that time is pretty bad.... not hating just suggesting what you could fix....

 

[stjoetalon]

R/T doesnt mean anything to me, unless I was bracket racing or have some sort of grudge match. Test and tune?...screw R/T. I would rather concentrate on the launch.

 

[pneumo]

With 110 octane you can also lean it out which puts off fuel cut to higher psi, then raise the boost even more. That's one of the secrets to getting a 1G AWD ino the 12's for under $1k.

 

[Gooberlog]

I have already backed out the screw on the MAF sensor so that it's flush, is there a way to lean it out w/o an safc or what not until i get some more money?

As for the reaction time, i wasn't the slightest bit concerned, one of my runs was more than a 4second R/T. I was racing a sunfire and a sentra, so i wasn't worried about beating it, i just wanted to pratice my launch and see what kind of E/T's my car could turn. Also on my fastes run of 13.5 my 60' was a weak 1.94 which was a tenth slower than my 13.64 run, if i cut a 1.79 60' what kind of e/t's should i expect with similar conditions? My 13.64 run was at 98.6 mph and my 13.5 run was at 101
Thanks
Travis

 

[pneumo]

Removing the lower honeycomb from the MAS will lean it out more. Leave the upper honeycomb alone. Hopefully you don't have any boost leaks because if you do this will lean it out too much when off boost and make it run rough.

 

[Gooberlog]

Thanks alot pneumo, i totaly forgot about that mod, i already removed the silencer and hacked the aircan, but i forgot about the honeycomb. Do you think that this will lean out my a/f enough to make a difference?
Thanks again
Travis

 

[pneumo]

For sure. I know of a few cars, including mine, that were able to push 21 psi or more with those MAF mods. But as I said, any little boost leak might be too much. For example, at one point I had two 1/4" holes drilled through the wall between the upper and lower chamber of my MAS to lean it out more for race gas and it made the car run a little rough at idle and under light throttle, but it helped at WOT. That was the point where I knew I needed an AFC.