first time at the strip

[93laser1g]

I went to WIR for the real street drags to run my bone stock laser awd auto, it was my first time racing at the track. 16.4 @ 82 was my best time i believe. i wasn't mad about my time, just more suprised. I found a couple boost leaks since then and fixed them. I am just wondering what times do auto awd 1g's usually run? i seen a video of a guy running 15.1 @ 97 bone stock but it didnt say what psi he was running. thoughts? slips posted below video will be posted later.

[zoey]

How did you launch the car?

I've not dragged an AWD auto 1G, but probably a good way to launch would be something like;

Edge up to stage, hold the brake with the left foot build boost @3-4k RPM~?, then launch with the lights by releasing the left foot, and flooring the throttle? This is how I launch my relatively stock Grand National (auto car of course) at the drag strip. It takes some finesse to find the proper RPM for launching, but my guess is you should be able to cut some time off your 60 ft with something like this. With the GN you have to feather the brake a little to reduce wheel spin, but with the AWD you wouldn't do that.

There are probably some "how to drag" stickies on the forum somewhere too, search around a bit.

-Zoey

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by zoey

How did you launch the car?

I've not dragged an AWD auto 1G, but probably a good way to launch would be something like;

Edge up to stage, hold the brake with the left foot build boost @3-4k RPM~?, then launch with the lights by releasing the left foot, and flooring the throttle? This is how I launch my relatively stock Grand National (auto car of course) at the drag strip. It takes some finesse to find the proper RPM for launching, but my guess is you should be able to cut some time off your 60 ft with something like this. With the GN you have to feather the brake a little to reduce wheel spin, but with the AWD you wouldn't do that.

There are probably some "how to drag" stickies on the forum somewhere too, search around a bit.

-Zoey

i launched just like you said. my first run at 2,800-2,900 rpm's. 2nd and third run at 3,200 rpms i didn't have the best reaction time. only mod is a 5 speed ecu. would it be better to use the ebrake? how can i lighten up the car without taking any of my interior out?

[stacked1G]

do u still have the spare tire n jack in the back? take that out if your trying to loose a couple pounds. Those boost leaks could have really been hurting performance though.

the more you spend time racing at the track, the more you will improve. i cant rly give u any pointers as to launching an auto as ive only ran 5spd's ;/

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by stacked1G

do u still have the spare tire n jack in the back? take that out if your trying to loose a couple pounds. Those boost leaks could have really been hurting performance though.

the more you spend time racing at the track, the more you will improve. i cant rly give u any pointers as to launching an auto as ive only ran 5spd's ;/

the spare and jack have been removed. is there anything else? yea 1 of the leaks was in the o2 housing and the other is in my exhaust manifold im going to weld the crack on the mani. I also ran on 18" rims maybe i should try 16's?

[stacked1G]

clean out your sidemount with low octane gas..take it off, pour the gas in, shake, pour out. repeat till it comes out its original color. let it dry throughly before re-installing.

just replace the manifold and 02 housing with ported 2g ones.

[warp9]

Wow. I dont know what a 13g can push out for boost but get a boost controller and find out. If you didnt install the 450cc inj with that ecu then that actually hurt your times. Are you planning to leave it bone stock or are you planning to get this thing moving at a decent pace? Simple mods can get you into the low 13s no problem. Does the trans shift well?

[stacked1G]

Originally Posted by warp9

Wow. I dont know what a 13g can push out for boost but get a boost controller and find out. If you didnt install the 450cc inj with that ecu then that actually hurt your times. Are you planning to leave it bone stock or are you planning to get this thing moving at a decent pace? Simple mods can get you into the low 13s no problem. Does the trans shift well?

i missed the part where he said he swapped in a 5spd ecu. that ecu is programmed to be running on 450s stock. i have a set of 1g 450s if you need em msg me.

[Blue Talon Boy]

A good, used 14b can be found relatively cheap too. That wouldn't be a bad idea either, the 13g's are pretty limited on flow rate. There is really no point in turning up the boost on a 13g, you will just be heating up the air which will only hurt you.

[J_HEATH]

Why the swap to a 5 speed ECU?

Also you can either try shifting through the gears manually, just bump the shifter into 2nd, then D. Or get a reprogrammed TCU. Has all the emissions been removed from the car? If not, do a quick search and I'm sure you can find some info about what all you can remove and how to do it. As far as weight goes, it depends on what all you're willing to go without. I have full interior still in my Auto DSM but I've taken out quite a bit of stuff to try and drop the weight.

Checkout my build thread for more on that and maybe some other idea's to help you with your automatic DSM>>> 93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Auto

Goodluck, and seat time is the best advice I can give at the track, its your car, just keep it up and I'm sure you'll figure it out as you get more comfortable in the seat.

What tires are you running? A simple thing to help that 60ft would be some decent tires. You can get a set of Kumho's ecsta MX's or something similar. They will give you pretty decent dry traction while still being about to drive on them on a daily basis if its your only car.

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by J_HEATH

Why the swap to a 5 speed ECU?

Also you can either try shifting through the gears manually, just bump the shifter into 2nd, then D. Or get a reprogrammed TCU. Has all the emissions been removed from the car? If not, do a quick search and I'm sure you can find some info about what all you can remove and how to do it. As far as weight goes, it depends on what all you're willing to go without. I have full interior still in my Auto DSM but I've taken out quite a bit of stuff to try and drop the weight.

Checkout my build thread for more on that and maybe some other idea's to help you with your automatic DSM>>> 93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Auto

Goodluck, and seat time is the best advice I can give at the track, its your car, just keep it up and I'm sure you'll figure it out as you get more comfortable in the seat.

What tires are you running? A simple thing to help that 60ft would be some decent tires. You can get a set of Kumho's ecsta MX's or something similar. They will give you pretty decent dry traction while still being about to drive on them on a daily basis if its your only car.

I had a bad ecu and needed the car running and i found the 5 speed ecu for 40$ in good working condition. i did shift manually , i have removed the emission's line's. and im sitting on continental extreme contact yes these where my 1st 3 runs at the track. and to the others i wanted to see what the car could do stock i thought it would have hit high 14's low 15's. i am going to start modding and go back. what would be a good converter stall 3500? for a daily driver/ weekend warrior?

[stacked1G]

Originally Posted by Blue Talon Boy

A good, used 14b can be found relatively cheap too. That wouldn't be a bad idea either, the 13g's are pretty limited on flow rate. There is really no point in turning up the boost on a 13g, you will just be heating up the air which will only hurt you.

i agree a 14b with exhaust/mbc/boost gauge, and some 450s to get ## ecu inline for now. would be some good mods to do first. checkout some of the upgrade paths here on the site Tech Guide - DSMtuners

[Abe'sGST]

First off fix any boost/vacuum leaks that you may have. Then try to find a good set of 450cc injectors for that 5 speed ecu. Try to find a good deal in the classifieds for both the injectors and a working 14b turbo, that will improve your times and get you started on a decent build.

[Steve93Talon]

Sounds about right, my buddy's bone stock '94 Talon AWD auto ran almost identical times. The 5 spd ECU will actually lean you out a bit if you still have stock auto injectors, not necessarily a bad thing but could be dangerous. You probably want to get 450s and/or a wideband in there ASAP.

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by Steve93Talon

Sounds about right, my buddy's bone stock '94 Talon AWD auto ran almost identical times. The 5 spd ECU will actually lean you out a bit if you still have stock auto injectors, not necessarily a bad thing but could be dangerous. You probably want to get 450s and/or a wideband in there ASAP.

i'm actually looking around for the 450's. im trying to hit atleast high 13's by the next time i go. where is the cheapest place to find a wideband?

[thomcasey]

The auto exhaust manifolds are really small. Get some 450's, and a 14b with either a matching manifold or a 2G manifold. Mod the BCS if you are still running it, or remove it and install a boost controller and a boost gauge. You will see much better performance. I have an auto, and just those mods were night and day. Now I have a 16G, 2gMAF, wally FP, and 550's with a stock 5-speed ECU. You might also look into the Blue-Wire mod (I need to do this bad) as the shift from 1st to 2nd isn't very happy at all over 5000rpm without it.

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by thomcasey

The auto exhaust manifolds are really small. Get some 450's, and a 14b with either a matching manifold or a 2G manifold. Mod the BCS if you are still running it, or remove it and install a boost controller and a boost gauge. You will see much better performance. I have an auto, and just those mods were night and day. Now I have a 16G, 2gMAF, wally FP, and 550's with a stock 5-speed ECU. You might also look into the Blue-Wire mod (I need to do this bad) as the shift from 1st to 2nd isn't very happy at all over 5000rpm without it.

what do you mean mod the bcs? im just going to buy a boost controller. Isn't there something you have to do to the 2g manifold for it to fit rite? what's the blue wire mod? Because i know exactly what your talking about with the shifting from 1st to 2nd.

[thomcasey]

BCS is boost control solenoid. It has a restrictor that has to be removed to get more boost when it is hooked up. Boost controller is better than the mod. 2g exhaust manifold bolt right up, u might be thinking of the intake manifold.

The blue wire mod can be accomplished a couple ways (you can search for it on this forum), but it will give you full line pressure so you can crack off shifts. I plan on doing it with a dual throw switch so i can leave it normal unless i need to get on it. Full line pressure shifts at part throttle are rough on the drivetrain

[J_HEATH]

If you're tight on money here are some cheap simple things that won't break the bank and won't effect the car to the extent to where you could damage it. This way you can have a peppy fun to drive street car.


2G exhaust manifold (port it)
2G O2 housing (port it)
Mitsubishi 16G (port the exhaust housing, and make sure its a true Mitsu 16G and not a knockoff)
manual boost controller (Hallman, turboxs, turbosmart)
2G MAF (there is a write up on how to rewire on here)
Apexi SAFC II (this is just a tie in tuning tool but hey, its easy to use and people have ran 10's on them)
Walbro 255 fuel pump and fuel pump rewire (search on here about the rewire)
Evo 550cc injectors (you can find these used for cheap and will give you more room to grow than the 450's)
Eprom TCU, safer than bluewire mod>>> Foreign Muscle
find some 17x8 or 16x8 wheels and some decent tires (Rotas are cheap wheels that look good on DSMs)
Some decent shocks (kyb's are good) and some springs so it doesn't ride like a boat going down the track.
ARP headstuds (buy new, do not buy used headstuds)
wideband & boost gauge

If you upgrade the fuel pump you'll need to change out the fuel pressure regulator, the factory unit isn't designed to handle the pressure of a 255. You can find one used on here for a decent price i'm sure.

most important advice i can give you is make sure you do every single maintenance thing needed before you start modding the car. Timing belt, tensioner, idlers, waterpump, hoses, gaskets, flush coolant, so on.

[idkiliketurbos]

I was there that night watching actually and some of my buddies and myself were all thinking of the reasons of why your car looked like it wasn't going down the track with the power it should have. Like they other guys stated, find all the boost leaks and fix them, as I can imagine there are some that are slowing you down.

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by idkiliketurbos

I was there that night watching actually and some of my buddies and myself were all thinking of the reasons of why your car looked like it wasn't going down the track with the power it should have. Like they other guys stated, find all the boost leaks and fix them, as I can imagine there are some that are slowing you down.

yes it was the boost leaks i have fixed them and it seems to be pulling harder. and the car is completely stock. but i thought it should have ran faster too. i didn't actually manually shift the car til my third run

[DSMTyson]

2G manifold, 450cc injectors, 14B, Less restrictive exhaust, Boost controller set to 14psi, Wideband.

Its a good thing you have the 5 speed ECU, as the automatic ECU retards timing when you stall up on the torque converter and provides a shitty launch.


With all that, you should see low 14's, high 13's at best.

[J_HEATH]

Originally Posted by DSMTyson

2G manifold, 450cc injectors, 14B, Less restrictive exhaust, Boost controller set to 14psi, Wideband.

Its a good thing you have the 5 speed ECU, as the automatic ECU retards timing when you stall up on the torque converter and provides a shitty launch.


With all that, you should see low 14's high, 13's at best.

Unless you upgrade to an Eprom ECU, then it doesn't. Mine doesn't on ECMlink V3 SD.

[93laser1g]

thanks guys, does anybody know where to get cheap 3" exhaust

[DSMTyson]

Originally Posted by J_HEATH

Unless you upgrade to an Eprom ECU, then it doesn't. Mine doesn't on ECMlink V3 SD.

Yep.

Originally Posted by 93laser1g

thanks guys, does anybody know where to get cheap 3" exhaust

Ebay, Classifieds, get a custom straight 3" exhaust made out of steel piping and choose a muffler of your choice.

If you are going to be on mitsu turbos for a while, you should go with a ported stock o2 housing, 2.5" downpipe, to a 3" exhaust. People that go with full 3" exhausts on 14b's/16gs usually get boost creep. Which can only be solved by using an open dump o2 housing OR by extensively porting the turbine housing.

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by DSMTyson

Yep.



Ebay, Classifieds, get a custom straight 3" exhaust made out of steel piping and choose a muffler of your choice.

If you are going to be on mitsu turbos for a while, you should go with a ported stock o2 housing, 2.5" downpipe, to a 3" exhaust. People that go with full 3" exhausts on 14b's/16gs usually get boost creep. Which can only be solved by using an open dump o2 housing OR by extensively porting the turbine housing.

why not just buy a high flow header?

[Blue Talon Boy]

"High flow" header on a turbo car doesn't afford you the same benefits as it does on a non turbo. The turbo is a major exhaust restriction that forces more air into the engine to make more power. Think of your engine as an air pump. You force more air in, you get more out which forces more in. A high flow header won't be needed till you are pushing the limits of a 14b. Around 300 horses wheel. Find a 14b and put a "real" 1g turbo on there. While you are at it, port your o2 housing and 1g manifold. A stock manual car is capable of around 300 hundred wheel if you build right and tune well.

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by Blue Talon Boy

"High flow" header on a turbo car doesn't afford you the same benefits as it does on a non turbo. The turbo is a major exhaust restriction that forces more air into the engine to make more power. Think of your engine as an air pump. You force more air in, you get more out which forces more in. A high flow header won't be needed till you are pushing the limits of a 14b. Around 300 horses wheel. Find a 14b and put a "real" 1g turbo on there. While you are at it, port your o2 housing and 1g manifold. A stock manual car is capable of around 300 hundred wheel if you build right and tune well.

lol a real 1g turbo, i like that i bought a 2g ported manifold already. waiting for my 14b in the mail. do you know what grit to use for porting the o2 housing? also i wanted to set up a external gate eventually , i know you have to buy an o2 with a dump tube and weld the internal gate flapper shut but what else do i need to do? and will it affect performance or just make it sound mean? i love the sound but wanted to know the performance side of it.

[Blue Talon Boy]

Originally Posted by 93laser1g

lol a real 1g turbo, i like that i bought a 2g ported manifold already. waiting for my 14b in the mail. do you know what grit to use for porting the o2 housing? also i wanted to set up a external gate eventually , i know you have to buy an o2 with a dump tube and weld the internal gate flapper shut but what else do i need to do? and will it affect performance or just make it sound mean? i love the sound but wanted to know the performance side of it.

An external gate is better capable of controlling the boost level then an internal gate. It eliminates boost creep, which a dump tube will do. External gate will require an aftermarket manifold. If you are going to go to that point, I would move away from a MHI turbo. Possibly t3/t4 hybrid or something similar. Are you looking for a street car/weekend warrior for drag? Maybe you want to take it to a road course? Autocross? That will dictate what kind of turbo you will want. Small turbo will do better for Autocross, 14b sized. Mid turbo for road course, 16g sized. If you can stand a couple hundred rpm of additional lag, a 20g is streetable and bolt on from a 14b. It is also decent for drag use.

[93laser1g]

Originally Posted by Blue Talon Boy

An external gate is better capable of controlling the boost level then an internal gate. It eliminates boost creep, which a dump tube will do. External gate will require an aftermarket manifold. If you are going to go to that point, I would move away from a MHI turbo. Possibly t3/t4 hybrid or something similar. Are you looking for a street car/weekend warrior for drag? Maybe you want to take it to a road course? Autocross? That will dictate what kind of turbo you will want. Small turbo will do better for Autocross, 14b sized. Mid turbo for road course, 16g sized. If you can stand a couple hundred rpm of additional lag, a 20g is streetable and bolt on from a 14b. It is also decent for drag use.

Thanks for all the info, seems i am going to be running an internal gate for the moment, But that can always change. i am looking for a street car/ weekend warrior not trying to run 10's I would be happy at low 13's high 12's i figure a 14b would be good enough for these kind of numbers let me know what you think.