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8's or Bust!

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okcpopeman

10+ Year Contributor
293
9
Jan 11, 2011
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Well Darren and I will be taking his car to the Tulsa Raceway Park tomorrow for IFO and going for the 8 second pass that has been long eluding us! Car has been a best of 9.2x with issues on the pass. We are actually ready to go this time whereas in the past we were always scrambling to get the car done at the last second and taking it untested. We are actually taking it up there with the E85 motor and one of our aluminum rod methanol motors. With this setup it has mad around 700WHP before nitrous and we only plan to spray on the stall unless we are losing:sneaky: I will keep all of you updated and will be sure to get video of what we hope to be a new personal best! Wish us luck!:hellyeah:


Here are some pictures of the car...
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I've known about this car for a while, not too many threads on it though..
Good luck !! :thumb:
 
Looking forward at seeing you there.. Are you going to have it in the carshow portion so i can have a look at it???:thumb:

Oh and by the way.. pleaaseee dont let a small dog jump out in front of you, you will be picking doggy out of your engine for a week! LOL love that narly looking turbo!
 
Is this still on the stock 1g trans?
 
Hope ya make it!! Keep us posted.
 
I can remember cruising out to 39th street and Darran driving that car out there with a 16g and a 5 speed. Awesome car kick ass Darran good luck with the 8 sec pass. It's well deserved.
 
Thanks everyone for the positive feedback! The car has come a long way over all these years!

Is this still on the stock 1g trans?

The trans in the car now has a shift kit and some borg warner clutches, its also running full line pressure. Other than that, stock.
 
700 whp through the auto should get you in there, If you can get the stall and make it leave it should be a fun ride. KEEP us posted!!!!
 
Well everyone, no luck. It was a overall bad day, we had bad weather, a weak class, and ended up hurting the motor on our 2nd qualifying pass. 1st pass was a 10.05 @ 146.69mph, stalling the car with no nitrous, it cut a 1.699 60'. We did this intentionally and the run was problem free and we were only running 23psi so we were excited to see that mph with such low boost. 2nd pass, we did use the nitrous to stall this time, got it up to around 4200rpm and launched with our personal best 60' of 1.39 with the same boost! Darren said as soon as he went into 2nd gear he felt the car start losing power. We ended up running 9.92 @ 137.29mph. As soon as I saw the mph I knew something was wrong but didnt think it was a major issue since the car finished the run.

Well I was wrong... Pulled the plugs in the pits and sure enough #1 cylinder burned all the ground electrode off the plug and had debris all over it. Looks like it may have torched a valve. We have been having issues like this for a while and thought we had the all sorted out, guess not...

At the track we had talked to some tuners from another teams camp and they were telling us that it was an issue with the AEM and continued to tell us how the AEM is notorious for the timing "floating" around (our tuner had mentioned this before also) We are not sure this is the issue but it does seem possible and we will be checking it once the car has been repaired, if this is the case, a switch to another EMS is likely in the near future. Maybe a ProEFI or FAST unit, not sure and we will have to see what we find. Any of you ever see any issues like this and have a suggestion please chime in! Sorry for the lack of good news but we will be back for sure!
 
I will simply say one thing about ECU choice, the proEFI is made by the same guy who pioneered the AEM and sold the rights to it to the actual company AEM (not to mention on dealers will have the box to allow major changes and the end user will have to go to the dealer for all major work) this is what he tried to do with the AEM in making a lot of it more complicated than it needed to be (so it wasn't easy for an end user to pick up and understand) I knew the guy personally, although not what i'd call a friend, i was very tight with his brother Kurt for many years. The guys name is Jason Siebles (who bought the rights for north america to sell/distribute the european GEMS system which was what the AEM was spawned from (it was also the first round/version of PEFIS - Professional EFI System - a.k.a. ProEFI that is now available, although the new system is his own design that he had engineered and the borads/cases harness made by a large manufacturer. But believe me when i say the proEFI hasn't taken off for a reason (sure some fast guys run it but that's because he installs and tunes them free of charge to get the kickback promotion of being able to say "rau runs one")

Jason is a smart guy, but the main fact of knowing that his entire goal aside from great ECU's is to put the moeny of tuning back in the hands of the shop/dealer who's selling the units. A friend of mine (Or i guess use to be friend) is a dealer here locally and no one i know wants to go to that unit when they see they can't do the main extent of configuration and tuning them selves and will always have to return to "the dealer" in the past few years he's really blown up with the system i'll give him that, but really when you get to it, the faster people go the less of the bells and whistles they usually end up needing, and things like traction control end up being another "inconsistancy" in your runs (but thats' my opinion, but most i see going fast don't need/use half the features on that box, and IMO you'll be fighting more things like the AEM's timing fluctuation with his new system. Overall i think the UI of proEFI is awesome and probably one of the best out there, but there's too many shortcomings/restrictions for the end user for me to justify having a "pretty window" to play in LOL

I've been dealing with/installling/tuning stand alones for a tad over 14 years now, go to as many of the classes as i can even for systems I"m not a dealer of in the real world (may sign up but don't have the faith in the units to promote them or sell them unless it's a customer request), and still many years from my beginings, I time and time again will end up standing by the trusty old haltech systems (even the old e6x units are great, reallyt simple and go exactly where you put them without so may fluctuations in fueling and timing) I'm not really the type to need all the functions of the new platinum ECUs by haltech but i can say one thing, when i tune em they stay put :) Also i don't buy anything "plug-n-play" when it's my choice, always get the universal unit as there's much less crap to weed out when going SD from MAF and so forth. plus i prefer running the complete new harness that's larger gauge wire and not heat beaten to death... You go plug n play and you still have the OEM 15-20 year old harness to battle with internal shorts and so forth, not to mention a cleaner install

Best of luck on the 8's and if there's anything ECU related i can help you with just shoot me a PM, i've dealt with them all.
 
That sucks about the motor. How much nitrous off the line are you hitting it with? Also what kind of conveter do you use in your car? Is you car driveable on street for cruising?
 
I will simply say one thing about ECU choice, the proEFI is made by the same guy who pioneered the AEM and sold the rights to it to the actual company AEM (not to mention on dealers will have the box to allow major changes and the end user will have to go to the dealer for all major work) this is what he tried to do with the AEM in making a lot of it more complicated than it needed to be (so it wasn't easy for an end user to pick up and understand)

I've been dealing with/installling/tuning stand alones for a tad over 14 years now, go to as many of the classes as i can even for systems I"m not a dealer of in the real world, and still time and time again i stand by the trusty old haltech systems (even the old e6x units are great, reallyt simple and go exactly where you put them without so may fluctuations in fueling and timing) I'm not really the type to need all the functions of the new platinum ECUs by haltech but i can say one thing, when i tune em they stay put :) Also i don't buy anything "plug-n-play" when it's my choice, always get the universal unit as there's much less crap to weed out when going SD from MAF and so forth.

Best of luck on the 8's and if there's anything ECU related i can help you with just shoot me a PM, i've dealt with them all.

Funny you bring that up cause the guys we were talking to are dealers for the ProEFI (Secret Services out of Texas) and my biggest fear in talking to them is that they are just trying to sell a product and not really looking out for whats best for us. They did tell us some of the background of the company like you have here. One thing that did catch our ear was that this is the EMS that Shep is currently running and he seems to have good success with it thus far.

One big issue here is that if we do end up needing or deciding to switch it will suck cause we a pretty well invested in the AEM (EMS, EGT box, Injector driver box, and all the sensors) so its hard to just up and get rid of all that to just turn around and have to buy it all again, I know Haltech has been around for awhile, but never really looked into them. Is this something that has to be done with their systems as well? Will we have to buy all the special add ons for some of the basic features we want? One thing i noticed with the ProEFI is that if you want to log a run without a laptop plugged in you have to buy their Pro 24pin module, this is the nickle and dime type of stuff we would like to avoid....
 
That sucks about the motor. How much nitrous off the line are you hitting it with? Also what kind of conveter do you use in your car? Is you car driveable on street for cruising?

Any info?
 
Man, if you were closer i'd throw my spare on your car just so you could try out a simple, effective unit that does exactly what you tell it to, and if ya didn't like it i'd pull it off and put your AEM back on.

sent you a PM, i'm not trying to sell you anything (you can get used anywhere for cheap) but i'll help you out with a haltech no matter where you get it untill you've satified with the tune and setup and that's just because of the faith i have in the system, has nothing to do with me being a dealer cause i am not asking you to buy anything from me or even buy new, i just know you'd be able to forget about the issues you're having related to ECU and concentrate on racing and driving

and you won't need any driver boxes or anything with haltech, an old used system has the best inj. drivers on the market, you can sell all that AEM stuff, buy all the haltech you need and have money left over. that's how confident i am in a used older box (e6k/e6x) all you need is the main box, a wire harness and the basic sensors (IAT, ECT, MAP and your 1g CAS - that's it) so simple and so complete package, i never liked the driver boxes and crap associated with AEM when haltech and motec both have never needed crap like that (excuse my french)

also, when you look at haltech, don't even l0ook at the new platinum series boxes (they were only made to keep with the trend of windows based plug-n-play software and user interfaces) the older boxes have injector drivers that people scavenge from them and put into newer ECU's they are so powerfull and reliable.. I wish i could put you in my car and show you, hell ask Sean Glazier if you can reach him, he taught me over the phone 13 years ago when i first got into haltech from ACCEL DFI, and got me straight on all i needed to know to get the car started and going (and it was my DD car then and still is today), I did my own patch loom (wired through the stock harness) in my girlfriends parking garage with a butane soldering iron and a flashlight, the old units were kick ass (Still are) but Sean G. and many others ran them back in the days before AEM was around and did aweseme with them. You can't beat the austrailian systems when it comes to EMS, hell IMO the best three systems all come from austrailia and those are haltech, autronic and motec (the aussies know something the rest of the world doestn' it seems in the line of programmable EMS)

and i should not forget to mention, my car has been my DD for 14 years (since new) with the haltech on it since 24k miles on the clock and it's gotten me from coast to coast many times, propelled my DSM with few mods and little money to excel past about anything on the streets and track around here and it's all in the tune, and i'm not magic or the best tuner out there, just simple effective setup and a logical box that does what you tell it

a few of your questions though real fast..

As far as sensors and inputs you want to log, there's a couple cahnnels that can log 0-5v signals and put them on the log with the other data, you can also use the o2 input for a spare 0-5 (or 0-1v) signal recording and not be using it for closed loop and messing anything up. I have my wideband AEM sensor reading into my haltech's o2 input (doing closed loop as well with the 0-5 volt signal) and still have the other 2 channels that can be datalogged with 0-5v or less that can be graphed onto the log (but i use them for other functions now that i've gotten rid of all narrow band sensors on mycar)
NO extras needed, the box, the sensors (all GM stuff) and a wiring harness are all you need (and an older laptop you can use newer but i prefer an older 233mhz machine with a rs-232 port)

Now, the haltechs of old (my favorites and the most effective racing ECU's) have to have a laptop plugged in for data logging (newer ones can do it nternal and also have CAN bus dash boards and all the things you might want but i like to keep it simple and simple's all you need to go fast)

The tuning is simple, no extra driver boxes, nothing to interface with, it can use everything the DSM comes with to run the engine except for the engine coolant temp sensor (it can actually read the DSM one if you prefer the resistance per temperature is the same as the GM stuff), GM air temp sensor (DSM don't have one stock it's in the MAF meter) and you need a good GM 3 to 5 bar MAP sensor the omni ones work well, and the older AEM compatible stuff works too

(these older boxes didn't have knock sensor interface and i ran without one for almost 9 years with no problems at all. I have however added a J&S safegaurd stand alone knock system because IMO it's the best out there (john the J in J&S) has put so much time into perfecting the algorythims that listen and pull and feed timing to the engine that you know it's accurate and not picking up much falst knock (if any) plus you can dial out false stuff with a simple knob, or send it to john to fine tune the algorithyms for you. Each system is tuned with specific sensors and programming for bore and stroke and what material your block is made out of, truely the only knock box i'd run (pulls timing on a cylinder by cylinder basis and only from the ones that knock) unlike the crap old MSD knock sensor box i had i can stand to run this one 24/7 (the MSD i hated and used only for tuning, it was a headache, i'm glad it burned up now days LOL)
 
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