FP68HTA 10 second pass

[larrykoren]

Okay so I woke up at 7am and called norwalk raceway. They said they were still going to open up despite the high wind. I said are you SURE you will run the 1/4 mile and they said YES! SO I packed up and got there at 930am (1.5 hr drive). I changed the oil, the spark plugs, took headlight out, took passenger seat out, took off street tires, and when I was putting on the slicks I heard them say, "Its a little windy out and street tires are in lane 6 and 7 and are going to run the 1/4 mile but slicks are in lanes 1 and 2 and have to run the 1/8th mile. I about sh*t myself. Then I heard him say, I highly recommend that the slick cars run the 1/8th BUT if you want you can run the 1/4 mile, its your life at risk. And then I celebrated! I said hell yea I am running the 1/4 mile. I put on my slicks and took some air pressure out. I tech in and get in line.

My first pass:

I launched at 20-25psi of boost and when I took off the tires spun pretty bad, smoke came off the right side tires and the car jerked left. I had too much pressure in the tires and more in the right then left. I was eye balling pressure by the way. I had a 1.7 60ft and then I let off before the line because I wanted to get a better launch. I ran a 11.17.

Second pass:

I take off with 20-25 psi. I had less tire pressure. I got a 1.5 60ft, but with my shift box I shifted right to 3rd! SO I went 1-3 and then I let off because I knew that run was over.

Third pass:

I took off with 20-25psi of boost. I let more air out of tires. They were pretty darn low and my tire pressure gauge doesnt go that low. I took off good, didnt miss any gears at all and got my 10sec pass.

1.549 60ft
4.464 330ft
[email protected] 1/8 mile
9.094 1000ft
[email protected] 1/4mile

Timeslip will follow.

I did short shift into 4th. SO I was all ready to go again and they shut down the track for 2 hours due to water seeping onto track from the ground. Then after 2 hours they decided to limit EVERYONE to the 330ft NO exceptions! WHich was crap because the track was dry. I walked down to the spot. They had a jet enfgine on it for 2hrs. It was fine! ANd the winds were actually better than earlier.

So my fourth pass: They only said to run the 330ft due to conditions but I was not about to do that. SO I ran the full 1/4, hoping for a time but it only had up to 330ft. I ran a 4.5 with a 1.5 60ft, and it was another 10 sec pass.

So i never got told anything for running 10s or going the full 1/4. I dont know why they didnt just say do it at your own risk after that too. But I decided to leave because no more 1/4 times.

SO at least I got a 10. I wanted to work more on the launch, boost off the line but I didnt want to beat on it without a 1/4. Also, I wanted to run out 3rd more before shifting to 4th too. I would have got a little better but I am happy with what I got because I could have got no 1/4 times at all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0t3JJ30jv2c

Click link to go to my channel. There are 3 more videos!

I will have time slip up soon.

 

[SBstar]

Great job! I've been following on Link, good to see you hit the 10's! Those are some smoking times for a stock appearing turbo, it's been fun watching more and more people stick with the little guys and run great times.

 

[dsmpat95]

Looks like you had fun.

 

[Dhan]

Just curious if you remember. About what psi did you have the tires at for each run?

 

[niki_talon]

great times!!!

 

[larrykoren]

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Well my tire pressure gauge sucks and it didnt even show up, so less than 20. I would guess 15 or so. It wasnt wrinkled but about 4 in on the bottom was flat on the ground.

 

[Dhan]

Well my tire pressure gauge sucks and it didnt even show up, so less than 20. I would guess 15 or so. It wasnt wrinkled but about 4 in on the bottom was flat on the ground.

Interesting. I've never really been too heavily into drag, but I'd like to start in my turbo Laser down the road.

Trying to get some info on slicks. Thanks for the reply!

 

[Nate Crisman]

AWESOME....congrats! Sucks that you didn't get to experiment with the OD shift or work on tuning in a better launch, but you got the goal and didn't have to spend any cash to do it compared to the last time (Im assuming you borrowed a set of slicks/wheels?)

If your going to continue to run slicks, I suggest you make a set of limit straps for the front end! holy crap that car points the nose to the sky!

 

[JusMX141]

Awesome time per MPH- you can thank the auto for that! Most 121mph 5-speed passes are in the 11.5 region. Great job!

 

[danl]

I remember a year ago when everybody was saying you can't run 10's on that turbo and the only reason Lucus English did is because it was a lightened race car and he wasn't being truthful about the mods on the car. Hopefully this puts it to rest but I know it won't.

Can you post up the model # of the wheel you went with and how you like the fitment? I am looking into a set myself and was wondering what style, size, and backspacing they are. Also what is the OD of the slick and are you still out of gear on the top end?

 

[red1993gsallmt]

God damn i want an auto!!!! wana trade??? Whats done to the trans?

 

[larrykoren]

Ya Nate I wish I could have had more runs and work on things. I was kind of disappointed but happy still. I know the front end is so high and it squats so much. On my video that I only went 330ft on (the title is 1.5 60ft and 4.5 330ft) you can see it raise a ton.

The slicks were mt et drag 24.5x8x15

Wheels are jegs cast aluminum sport star 15x8

I got the 4.5 backspacing to make sure they fit and cleared 100%. SO they stick out an inch from the body. But I think the 5.5 is ideal. But you might need spacers to fit the 5.5 in the front but not very large. ALso, I needed to cut the brake caliper bracket on the fronts because they are out further than the hub. ANd when the wheel attaches to the hub it could go on flat.

BUT if you got the 5.5 backspacing and got a spacer on the fronts, I believe you would clear the bracket piece and clear the suspension. And the backs should be perfect with 5.5 rear spacing.

Cutting the outer part of the caliper bracket has no ill effects and brakes fine. But if I had a choice I would get a spacer up front and run this backspacing.

Jegs wheels and slicks = 34lbs.
Weld are lighter but double price and need longer studs and mag shank nuts. The jegs fit stock studs and conical nuts.

These are what I would get if I did it again.

JEGS Performance Products 67077 JEGS Sport Star Cast Aluminum Wheels

This is what I have

JEGS Performance Products 67071 JEGS Sport Star Cast Aluminum Wheels

Slicks

Mickey Thompson 3015 Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks

I know, there were doubters about english but it is easy to run 10s on this. My setup is simple and cheap. He has a built 2.3l, 272 cams, meth, and some other things I think but he went 10.1. SO going 10.9 requires much less, which is what I have.

Nothing is done to the trans.

I have a tranny cooler from advance auto. I have my custom shift box wired to solenoids to shift myself and at full line pressure. Its 2 toggle switches and wire. Thats it! Stock converter, no shift kit, no anything.

 

[brian9397gsx]

Man that 60ft time is amazing good job very impressive, wish I were auto but I love my 5sp too much.

 

[larrykoren]

I love 5 speeds if daily driving but for racing the auto rocks if you want to do great with little. But a 5 speed is fun, but expensive for clutches and you have a heavy clutch pedal.

 

[brian9397gsx]

I agree with you had I been building mine for drag it would be auto without a doubt, again great job

 

[Phil1320]

nice work.....might have to run one of those turbos.......

 

[Nate Crisman]

I would really really love to see some detailed pictures of the car to compare weights. Interior, engine bay, hatch area. This car just kicks ass with how simple/stock it is coupled with how efficient and consistent. It's more like an Anti-DSM! You'v been to the track 3 times in the last few weeks, consistently ran bottom 11's and snuck into the 10's, nothing broke, the car ran great. It's just so not the typical dsm experience. I love it.

 

[larrykoren]

Thanks Nate, I know I am so surprised. It is very consistent and nothing has broken. With all the stories, I always plan on breaking down each time out and it has not happened.

I will get pics real soon for ya.

 

[danl]

I'm confused by what you are saying about the caliper bracket. Do you mean you had to trim the side facing the wheel a bit? I think I will try 5.5" backspacing to tuck the wheels in better and just trim the bracket. Thanks for the info. If you get a chance post a picture showing how much the wheels stick out from the fenders.

 

[larrykoren]

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[larrykoren]

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Next auto build

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I dont have the wheels on anymore, so no pics until next time. But its at least an inch. The bracket toward the wheel side has the vertical piece about a half an inch thick. I didnt have time to trim it so I just cut mine off all together. But it barely rubbed. It is only to hold the pads I assume.

But yes the circle on the rim is larger than the rotor. If you look at the rotor on the drivers front wheel, you will see the caliper bracket about a half an inch away from the rotor mounting surface. The rims mounting surface goes to that and hits it which doesnt allow the rim to be tightened down or turn. So you have to trim it or cut it.

 

[SonySlave]

If you haven't completely by-passed the TCU, I'd recommend trying to let the TCU shift itself with the stock shift points. Lucas has always done it that way with the Evo III, HTA68, and now the HTAGreen and has had great success as you've seen. He found that shifting any higher wouldn't net him faster times. In fact, he found he went slower. Now, when he switched to the HTAGreen he felt that maybe a little higher shift would have helped but he still ran 9.9 with it letting the TCU shift stock.

Just an idea to try maybe...

 

[larrykoren]

Fuel cell mounting

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When I let it shift itself it is so slow to shift and does it at crappy times and it feels bad. I will stick to shifting myself. The shifting is not as fast or hard like with the shift box. I have been seeing the differences and I am finding out the best shift points gradually.

I know mine shifts slower because when I have the tcu wiring on there it isnt full line pressure anymore (i assume). But I also hate having it down shift when I floor it when on the street or highway doing pulls. I rather shift myself and pick gears like a manual. Its exactly like a manual this way. It doesnt have to take a second to down shift and i dont need to push the lever up. I rather flip my switches, have complete control, and shift like that.

Stock will shift like 6500, I shift pretty near to stock. LIke 7k 1-2, 6800 2-3, and 6700 3-4, roughly.

 

[Scrymerr]

Nice fuel pump mount and welds man.
How can something like that be legal at the track?

 

[larrykoren]

Well the flat bar is welded together well and it could never fall through. The welds on the sheet metal are in many places and is very strong. Some places there is frame under the sheet metal and some places there was not. So It would weld good and then you hit a spot with nothing and it would blow through. It is actually very strong and I tested it and it doesn't even budge with me standing on it, ect. There is alot of the weld that got through to the frame and penetrated well even though some little spots blew out. I know it kinda looks bad but it is secured in 16 spots and the flat bar is sturdy. Its not thin as heck.

The fuel pumps ect could be there without anything and stay there. The zip ties are just in case to keep it high since I drive on the road. I also welded and bent that flat bar directly to the frame of the car, so the pumps and that bottom bar are not going to move.

As far as being sealed, I screwed the sheet metal to to old sheet metal on the outside. I seam sealed the sheetmetal all the way around up top. Then I put the spray foam underneath. I also put a shield underneath. the cell. ANd made a box that is sealed with seam sealer above.

I have had 2 tracks fully inspect it and look at it and they said it fit the nhra rules and gave me a sticker for the season. They said it is much better than they see for most hatchbacks who have the cell in the same compartment as the driver and dont seal it off both air and liquid tight.