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9.9 1/4mi FP Green HTA

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LucasEnglish

15+ Year Contributor
484
16
Dec 23, 2004
Washougal, Washington
So I just got this turbo on last week and this was the 1st and last chance for me to hit the track this year with the new turbo. For now the car is only up an avg of 2 tenths and 2mph over the FP68hta but there is still room left once I get more time with it.

Basic mods on car:



Combo as of now:

-ER 2.3 (Eagle Wiseco) 9.0
-HKS 272 (old School )
-Stock EVO beehive springs
-light ER head port work
-ETS race FMIC
-ER Cold air intake
-FIC 1650cc injectors
-DSM Link V3 Speed Density Omni 4 bar map
-255hp fuel pump with a 255hp inline
-Ported EVOIII O2 Housing
-FP Race Exhaust Manifold
-3in Down Pipe only
-Stock Intake manifold
-Internal WG FP HTA Green spiking 33psi holding 30psi
-E98 Fuel
-Electric water pump
-Half radiator
-2400lbs 2570 with me in it.
- English Racing Built Auto Transmission with Stock Converter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCtVDjwCSKU
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Log any airflow numbers for that beast? Want to know what it flows compared to the HTA 3052 and reg 3052.
 
Is this a stock housing like the HTA68?

The more and more I see these FP turbos, the more and more I am curious about the Blouch20g..
 
:thumb:Congrats on the 9!!!!!!!!!


That's awesome......133 trap is nice as well.....


Correct me if I'm wrong.....the 10.06 a few weeks back was on the 68HTA right?

Anyway, FP turbos are bad-ass, and you've definitely got me interested as far as my next turbo.
 
Killer times. I need to get Speed Density up and running.
 
Yes I did do one 10.06 a few weeks back but that was along with 3 other 10.1 and 2 10.2s the car did 4 10.0's last night with the 9.9.

No real Air Flow # since the car is SD.

Yes the public can buy this turbo just an HTA Green.

This thing is up 50hp over the FP68hta at 7k but with the way the auto can use the low rpm I dont see much gain from the higher RPM power. This turbo would be night and day for a 5spd guy. At least 3-5 tenths faster. With only a 200rpm spool difference at most.
 
I never look at lbs/per min since it seems to be such and adj # and the car is SD. 1/4mi and Dyno times is what I look at.

I do have the G/rev logged which is 4.2 at 5500rpm with a boost of 36psi on the map sensor and Boost est of 40.1. Not sure if that helps or not. Does not look like I have logged the Calculated lbs pre min on this car.
 
Thanks for the props guys. I the Excitement I get from this car with how simple it is really makes it fun.

The Video is up now. Sorry if its a bit long. Did not trim them down as much as I normally do.
 
Awesome setup...You mention how cheap and simple. How much is in the build with labor? No cage in the car?

Let me know when it goes up for sale!!
 
There is a 5 point cage in the car. So it is NHRA legal down to 10.0.

As the car sits now it would be around $5000 in parts. If you paid us to hack up the car it would add a good $3000 in labor but most DSM's should be able to get quite a bit of the Hacking done with out the shop doing it. If i had a virgin car brought to us and want the same build from ground up it probably would be around $12000. This is way shooting form my hip on Pricing.

I do feel that almost the same # could be done on a stock 2.0 short block. Which would save about $4000 if we were building the car.
 
There is a 5 point cage in the car. So it is NHRA legal down to 10.0.

As the car sits now it would be around $5000 in parts. If you paid us to hack up the car it would add a good $3000 in labor but most DSM's should be able to get quite a bit of the Hacking done with out the shop doing it. If i had a virgin car brought to us and want the same build from ground up it probably would be around $12000. This is way shooting form my hip on Pricing.

I do feel that almost the same # could be done on a stock 2.0 short block. Which would save about $4000 if we were building the car.


Youve got my wheels turning! Can you do a swap on a stick car? I know it would be easier to start with an auto car but theyre arent many around. :cry:
 
lucus i have a 91 auto talon im building over the winter ,my goal for the car is low ten's high nine's,i wanted to build a 2.3 motor like yourself so i would not have to us spray to get on the stall ,

do you think a 2.0 with a pte 6262 would work without nitrious to stall up?
 
Well anything bigger then a 16g from what I have seen on a 2.0 will never spool even with a converter. The problem I see even with 5k converters is the no boost stall tops out at about 2900rpm so if your turbo does not start to make just a little hp it will never take off. It seems just an extra 40 hp is all you need to get above 3k ware most bigger turbos will start to do a little. We have a cust 1g on a std 35r and use a 60shot to get it up on the Converter.
 
Congrats... :applause:



lucus i have a 91 auto talon im building over the winter ,my goal for the car is low ten's high nine's,i wanted to build a 2.3 motor like yourself so i would not have to us spray to get on the stall ,

do you think a 2.0 with a pte 6262 would work without nitrious to stall up?


Stroker = $4000+

Nitrous kit = $300 or less.

Why not hit it with a 40-50 shot and call it a done deal. :confused: To many people afraid of nitrous IMO. The engine/turbo doesn't care if it gets it's added hp from bore and stroke or a little blue bottle. If anything nitrous works better, and will add less wear and tear to the engine since it's not "ON" all the time.
 
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