1G engine rebuild suggestions

[GPLaserRS]

I have a 1G 6 bolt motor that I'm trying to rebuild on somewhat of a budget, I've got most of what I need to finish. I'm looking for anybody to chime in if you think I'm missing anything, do something different, and suggest someplace to get the machine work done. Let me give a little background on the block I'm using; 6 Bolt motor with less than 60,000 miles on it, BS belt broke and caused the timing to jump and the valves bang into the pistons. Put the motor on an engine stand and it's been there ever since (about 6 yrs now). Anyways, here's what I've been hoarding/stockpiling for a rebuild so far -

2G pistons (complete with pins and rings)
King rod & main bearings
BSE kit
3G lifters
Nitrited I/E valves
EVO VIII valve springs and retainers
Full gasket set
MLS head gasket
Mitsubishi hydraulic tensioner and pulleys

Things I still need -

ARP rod/cam/main/head hardware
Kevlar t-belt
Bronze valve guides

Machine work -

Hot tank the block
Deck the block
Valves lapped
Valve ports reground
Deck the head
Machine the rods for the pistons
Rear balance shaft turned down

Let me know what any of you think?

 

[pindlepiper]

OEM Front Case/Oil Pump
Freeze Plugs

 

[GPLaserRS]

I have freeze plugs with the full gasket kit already, so that's all set. If the pump spec's out okay can I reuse it, or do I have to get a new one?

 

[Detroit Style]

I have freeze plugs with the full gasket kit already, so that's all set. If the pump spec's out okay can I reuse it, or do I have to get a new one?

Is a motor worth losing over a $350 pump?

Also, have it honed with a torque plate.

Also, spend the time to make sure all the ring gaps and piston to wall are correct.

 

[GPLaserRS]

Is a motor worth losing over a $350 pump?

Also, have it honed with a torque plate.

Also, spend the time to make sure all the ring gaps and piston to wall are correct.

I figured it was a safe choice to install a new oil pump. As for having it honed, I don't think it'll be necessary, the cylinders still have the crosshatch in them so it shouldn't have to be bored out. If it does need to be bored out it's essential to use a torque plate to avoid piston slap. Any good local machine shops to get the work done at?

 

[Detroit Style]

I figured it was a safe choice to install a new oil pump. As for having it honed, I don't think it'll be necessary, the cylinders still have the crosshatch in them so it shouldn't have to be bored out. If it does need to be bored out it's essential to use a torque plate to avoid piston slap. Any good local machine shops to get the work done at?

A torque plate wont prevent piston slap. What it will do, is give you the seal of a factory new engine.

We use D&S in Clawson and have them use our torque plate. Great results every time.

 

[Metal Health]

Looking for a reputable machine shop? Garfield and Utica Rd in fraser, were the roads intersect, place called Automotive Machine, little pricey but the work has always been A1! They know there stuff, its a full service shop. 586 296 6501 ask for Jack.

A few items on your list shouldn't be necessary.
Kevlar timing belt- OE Mitsu belt will take 500hp+
ARP head bolts should only be needed at this point.
Bronze guides if the head has 60,000 or less I wouldn't have them done.
Stock freeze plugs I would leave alone if they weren't leaking.
Save your money on the oil pump, inspect it, use feeler gauge and a straight edge or a light.

The only machine work I would have done is hone/deck/inspect the block.
Machine/hang pistons.
Surface the head, install springs, new valve stem seals, new valves, and a plain valve job.
Im sure they can order you new rings for those 2gs.
If you got the coin llok into getting all rotating mass full balanced including flywheel an PP, this is just an option.

What do mean by rear balance shaft turned down?

Also when removing BSs port oil pump housing to relief some oil pressure. Heres how http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/405081-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting-pictures.html