TBelt slipped 6 teeth, 6bolt w/2g head problems

[deflator]

I can't get the timing-belt tension right on my 6-bolt swapped 95 with a 2g head.

The lower timing tin must be wrong since the access hole for the special tool will not let it go in, the angle is wrong. This led to me trying to time it without using the special timing tool and it slipped 6 teeth. It looks like this tin is bolted on UNDER the damn tensioner arm, so it's a trap.

My immediate problem is getting the timing belt off without ruining the auto-tensioner. I cannot get the special tool in, so I am left with just loosening the pulleys and removing the tensioner without the pin in...Will it be re-usable? It has 70 miles on it.

Camshafts are scratched up. It is hardly visible, but you can feel it with your finger. They are FP3's and no longer made so can I repair them?

I split a roller rocker in two. All the other rocker arms were off their lifters when I opened the valve cover. So many or all of the valves are bent. Pistons are forged, so they will be okay, I hope?

The head was ported, is it rebuildable after this?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[BogusSVO]

Yes the head can be fixed.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/439824-4g63-dropped-valve-head-repair.html

Do not remove the spark plugs until the head is off and you can look at the combustion chamber and see if they got damaged.

You may want to ship the cams to Delta Cams to be inspected and repaired.

Good chance you have the common dings found on top of the pistons when a timing belt breaks, you should be able to buff out the high spots and bee good.

But with the head off, do this...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/450572-how-check-pinched-bad-rings.html#post153127146

Post some pics of the head once you have it pulled

 

[deflator]

Eh, pulled the plugs already but they were fine. Will try to remember not to do that in the future.

I'm glad you chimed in, maybe you can tell me if it's worth all that machine work.

I don't have much into this head, I ported it myself and it came on the car. Stock valves and springs too, which may have been overpowered by the FP3s and caused this. So I can get a good 2g head ($100?) and get it rebuilt for like $300. With a used set of better springs and I should be near or under $600 for this mishap.

 

[BogusSVO]

Do you have FP3 or the FP3x ?

Both cams should use a dual valve spring, per FP website

FPCam3

This cam is no longer available.

Dual valve springs required. STDuals at 1.500-1.530" installed is required. The first camshaft designed with the 100mm stroke crankshaft in mind. Often referred to as the "square lobe", No valve to piston interference issues, and no retainer to guide interference issues. This is a drop in cam in the sense that no issues with geometry or interference exist. This cam produces very broad power bands in stroker engines, easily consuming all available airflow from 800cfm and larger turbochargers.

FPCam3x

This cam is no longer available.

Dual valve springs required. Be sure to install your springs with 280+lb over the nose, STDuals need 1.470-1.480" installed height. This camshaft has the highest valve acceleration that is allowable with our dual valve springs. The FPCam3x has more lift and faster ramps than the FPCam3.


Now with this in mind, your wore out stock springs in no manner should have been matched to either cam.

You can either fix your original head, or get another. the number crunching will be up to you.

 

[deflator]

I found interesting damage after taking off the tbelt, the exhaust cam gear has a chunk missing. I may have not done the belt so wrong after all, and it was an internal failure. They were plain FP3s.

 

[Paul@RTM]

The lower timing tin must be wrong since the access hole for the special tool will not let it go in, the angle is wrong. This led to me trying to time it without using the special timing tool and it slipped 6 teeth. It looks like this tin is bolted on UNDER the damn tensioner arm, so it's a trap.

Actually, it's not just the timing tin, it's the threaded hole in the engine mount that doesn't line up with the 6-bolt tensioner arm. It's due to the fact that all the timing components are 6-bolt and the engine mount is 2g. As it happens, they aren't compatible. You'd either have to drill and tap a new hole in the mount (which would be very difficult) or take the tensioner off and compress it in a vise.

 

[deflator]

Actually, it's not just the timing tin, it's the threaded hole in the engine mount that doesn't line up with the 6-bolt tensioner arm. It's due to the fact that all the timing components are 6-bolt and the engine mount is 2g. As it happens, they aren't compatible. You'd either have to drill and tap a new hole in the mount (which would be very difficult) or take the tensioner off and compress it in a vise.

Okay, so I didn't mess up. That's how you time a 6-bolt w/2g head.

Carnage photos. Gouges on the pistons are identical

 

[BogusSVO]

As much as the valves are bent, I would say the guides are cracked/busted too.

 

[deflator]

As much as the valves are bent, I would say the guides are cracked/busted too.

Yeah, and the valves are pushed into the sides of the head too. It's trash. But are the pistons going to be acceptable with that kind of gouging? I'm going to clean the high spots up with a dremel and test the rings after cleaning all the metal out.

How much can a camshaft lobe be scored? One scratch is going to be too deep to polish off.