kiggly
Supporting Vendor
- 321
- 198
- Feb 17, 2003
-
Ann Arbor,
Michigan
As most of you probably know, I adapted EVO9 MIVEC hardware onto my 1g drag car using a 2g cylinder head. Although I said I never would, I'm now looking at offering this to the public.
The main reason I never intended to offer DSMIVEC publicly was due to how difficult it was to drill the oil feed holes in the head if you intended to never break out of the OEM casting. It was a blind drill of 0.080" holes that had to meet 1.5" away - which was extremely difficult to get right. Since then, I figured out a much easier way to make the difficult oil feed hole. The new method purposefully breaks out of the casting and just drills a straight line to feed the oil to the rear cam port. This new oil feed is then finished off by sliding in a small aluminum tube and bonding it in place with loctite retaining compound. If you're careful freehand drilling all of this, it works out fine.
This isn't a simple modification, but it isn't brain surgery either. The drilling of the ports does have some risk of destroying a head if it is done wrong.
From a parts point of view, the whole setup requires a crank trigger, hydraulic control valve and distribution block, a specially ground cam, one feed line to the block, two feed lines to the cams, one drain from the block, an EVO9 intake cam gear, and some sort of system to control this. Many aftermarket ECU's support this in a feedback sense, but even just using this as an on-off rpm switch works reasonably well. Honestly, I'm using it like this in my drag car where it is fully retarded at idle, fully advanced for spoolup and until about 7k, then fully retarded beyond that. I'm thinking of a kit that would include the first 3 items in this list and detailed instructions for the remainder, including a template and details for the drilling.
Is there much interest in this? I figured with the growing popularity of auto setups nowadays this is something a lot of people could benefit from, just as I have. I'm guessing the total invested to complete the hardware will be about $2k, so this isn't an inexpensive modification by any means. In an application that is close to spooling on the converter though, it is a replacement for nitrous and can extend the rpm range dramatically.
Let me know what you guys think and if this is in or way out of bounds of what some of you with more serious builds would consider.
Thanks,
Kevin
The main reason I never intended to offer DSMIVEC publicly was due to how difficult it was to drill the oil feed holes in the head if you intended to never break out of the OEM casting. It was a blind drill of 0.080" holes that had to meet 1.5" away - which was extremely difficult to get right. Since then, I figured out a much easier way to make the difficult oil feed hole. The new method purposefully breaks out of the casting and just drills a straight line to feed the oil to the rear cam port. This new oil feed is then finished off by sliding in a small aluminum tube and bonding it in place with loctite retaining compound. If you're careful freehand drilling all of this, it works out fine.
This isn't a simple modification, but it isn't brain surgery either. The drilling of the ports does have some risk of destroying a head if it is done wrong.
From a parts point of view, the whole setup requires a crank trigger, hydraulic control valve and distribution block, a specially ground cam, one feed line to the block, two feed lines to the cams, one drain from the block, an EVO9 intake cam gear, and some sort of system to control this. Many aftermarket ECU's support this in a feedback sense, but even just using this as an on-off rpm switch works reasonably well. Honestly, I'm using it like this in my drag car where it is fully retarded at idle, fully advanced for spoolup and until about 7k, then fully retarded beyond that. I'm thinking of a kit that would include the first 3 items in this list and detailed instructions for the remainder, including a template and details for the drilling.
Is there much interest in this? I figured with the growing popularity of auto setups nowadays this is something a lot of people could benefit from, just as I have. I'm guessing the total invested to complete the hardware will be about $2k, so this isn't an inexpensive modification by any means. In an application that is close to spooling on the converter though, it is a replacement for nitrous and can extend the rpm range dramatically.
Let me know what you guys think and if this is in or way out of bounds of what some of you with more serious builds would consider.
Thanks,
Kevin
