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Cylinder Head & Short Block: 4G63 cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, 6-bolt swaps, hybrids, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.

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Old 05-17-2012, 01:39 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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From: Waco, Texas
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2G-specific

ARP's used engine?


hey guys well my 97 talon had a rod knock at 150k miles and well it was number 1 rod bearing that went ,as why it went bad idk but i know that the engine has to come out .. well I had a spare engine in my 95 awd car with a bad tranny that i bought from a guy that told me the engine was good and something went wrong with the trans as it was stuck from going into any gear which turned out to be true .. idk if this engine was ever rebuilt at a point in time of its life but car has 150k and the guy has done already a Cometic Head gasket and ARP head studs which is still on the engine ,other than porting the intake to accept the 1g TB i dont see anything wrong with engine as i flipped it over on engine stand to pan side and without taking rod caps off try to move them seeing that everything is still nice and tight ..BUT
I been wondering since i'm there would it be a good thing to install ARP rod bolts and Mains studs?

any input on advice is appreciated an thanks


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Old 05-17-2012, 01:47 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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If want to install arp main studs you have to have the engine apart todo a Aline hone and yes you install arp rods bolts on the, rods I don't know if they have to come out but it would be a good idea to install them.


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Old 05-17-2012, 02:24 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielbo91 View Post
If want to install arp main studs you have to have the engine apart todo a Aline hone and yes you install arp rods bolts on the, rods I don't know if they have to come out but it would be a good idea to install them.
dude your up early just text me as i losted your number in my other phone
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:37 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Send a message via Yahoo to 1996dsm
Both of yall are...lol


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Old 05-17-2012, 02:45 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Both of yall are...lol
MAN you 2 btw chris im setting up a DSM meet within the next month and half
but forreal what should i do about this situation ,, im working on a tight $350 budget lol unless i sell some more stuff or MY green AWD which im trying to get rid of
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:22 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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unless your pulling it apart and doing new bearing i would leave the bottom end alone

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Old 05-17-2012, 12:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cartz-snopro View Post
unless your pulling it apart and doing new bearing i would leave the bottom end alone
thinking your right and ill just take the engine in it with the spun rod bearing and just start buying parts here and there until its all together
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:37 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Not alot of people worry about MAIN studs in my research, just think about the stock block power

And I'm not 100% sure but to have ARP's on the OEM rods, machine work must be done


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Old 05-17-2012, 12:48 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Anytime you change the fastener type, ie studs to bolts or bolts to studs, it should be align honed. Anytime an increase in fastener torque is done, it should also be align honed.


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Old 05-17-2012, 06:28 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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I agree with those who've said you need machine work when changing bottom end fasteners to ARP, they clamp tighter and can deform the shape of the "circle" in the rod and main caps, thus making bearing clearances off and out of round holes to boot.. leave the bottom end alone i'd say, or if ou're up for it just swap in new bearings all around (rods and mains) since you're in there


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