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05-17-2012, 01:39 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member

From: Waco, Texas
Registered: Oct 2010
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ARP's used engine?
hey guys well my 97 talon had a rod knock at 150k miles and well it was number 1 rod bearing that went ,as why it went bad idk but i know that the engine has to come out .. well I had a spare engine in my 95 awd car with a bad tranny that i bought from a guy that told me the engine was good and something went wrong with the trans as it was stuck from going into any gear which turned out to be true .. idk if this engine was ever rebuilt at a point in time of its life but car has 150k and the guy has done already a Cometic Head gasket and ARP head studs which is still on the engine ,other than porting the intake to accept the 1g TB i dont see anything wrong with engine as i flipped it over on engine stand to pan side and without taking rod caps off try to move them seeing that everything is still nice and tight ..BUT
I been wondering since i'm there would it be a good thing to install ARP rod bolts and Mains studs?
any input on advice is appreciated an thanks  
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05-17-2012, 01:47 AM
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Proven Member

From: fort worth, Texas
Registered: Dec 2010
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If want to install arp main studs you have to have the engine apart todo a Aline hone and yes you install arp rods bolts on the, rods I don't know if they have to come out but it would be a good idea to install them.
____________________________
Daniel-95 eclipse gsx 2.3 coming soon.
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05-17-2012, 02:24 AM
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Proven Member

From: Waco, Texas
Registered: Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielbo91
If want to install arp main studs you have to have the engine apart todo a Aline hone and yes you install arp rods bolts on the, rods I don't know if they have to come out but it would be a good idea to install them.
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dude your up early just text me as i losted your number in my other phone
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05-17-2012, 02:37 AM
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Proven Member

From: Fort Worth, Texas
Registered: Jan 2008
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Both of yall are...lol
____________________________
Current
-1997 GSX
Previous
-1996 RS
-1998 RS
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05-17-2012, 02:45 AM
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Proven Member

From: Waco, Texas
Registered: Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996dsm
Both of yall are...lol
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MAN you 2 btw chris im setting up a DSM meet within the next month and half
but forreal what should i do about this situation ,, im working on a tight $350 budget lol unless i sell some more stuff or MY green AWD which im trying to get rid of
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05-17-2012, 12:25 PM
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Proven Member

From: Waco, Texas
Registered: Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cartz-snopro
unless your pulling it apart and doing new bearing i would leave the bottom end alone
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thinking your right and ill just take the engine in it with the spun rod bearing and just start buying parts here and there until its all together
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05-17-2012, 12:37 PM
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Proven Member

From: Missoula, Montana
Registered: Nov 2011
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Not alot of people worry about MAIN studs in my research, just think about the stock block power
And I'm not 100% sure but to have ARP's on the OEM rods, machine work must be done
____________________________
Nathan
Car's built on the inside, but not out :)
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05-17-2012, 12:48 PM
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Proven Member

From: Piscataway, New Jersey
Registered: Dec 2006
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Anytime you change the fastener type, ie studs to bolts or bolts to studs, it should be align honed. Anytime an increase in fastener torque is done, it should also be align honed.
____________________________
Tim
Grace: 1998 GST
Sera: 1998 XJ
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05-17-2012, 06:28 PM
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Proven Member

From: Omaha, Nebraska
Registered: Nov 2007
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I agree with those who've said you need machine work when changing bottom end fasteners to ARP, they clamp tighter and can deform the shape of the "circle" in the rod and main caps, thus making bearing clearances off and out of round holes to boot.. leave the bottom end alone i'd say, or if ou're up for it just swap in new bearings all around (rods and mains) since you're in there
____________________________
Haltech E6X, Holset H1-3558x, AWD swap
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