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Cylinder Head & Short Block: 4G63 cams, valvetrain, pistons, rods, stroker kits, 6-bolt swaps, hybrids, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.

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Old 02-07-2011, 10:07 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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From: Durango, Colorado
Registered: Aug 2009
Tech Posts: 149
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7 bolt differences 7 bolt build


So i am building a new 7 bolt for my 2g. Why? Because i already have eagle rods and arias pistons along with a built head plus tons of extras for the car brand new in the box. now i want to try and build a nice 7 bolt that i dont have to worry too much about. I need to buy a crank to finish my engine besides the block work for the new pistons. now i am not sure of the differences between the 95-96 blocks and the 97-99 blocks. I have heard the later 2g block dont have as much of an issue with crankwalk later in its life. I am understanding that the thrust bearing set up is different along with the main caps. My block is the 95. What can i do to help this thing last long? better thrust bearing? Alignment pins for the mains? I dont know what would be good to do to the block since I am sending it to the machine shop, as well as tricks of the trade or important things I should do to better the life of my 7 bolt block. I can get a 10 under crank through my work for a great price but dsm graveyard has eagle cranks for a great price for the 7 bolt right now. What should i do? Is there a 1g oil squirter conversion for the 2g blocks? I know alort of theories about them being an issue and robbing oil pressure when the get stuck open or fall out of the block. I will be installing a balance shaft removal kit in the car which will help oil pressure. Any advice on my build would be great. thanks guys


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Old 02-07-2011, 10:20 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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From: South Gilbert, Arizona
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The '95-'97 blocks have the same "CW" bound bottom end, at least thats the hype, I'm not a believer. The '98-'99 7-bolts have a split thrust bearing which theoretically prevents CW that the earlier 2g 7-bolts were experiencing. If you build a 7-bolt find yourself a '98-'99 bottom-end, theres one for sale in the classifieds right now actually, I saw it a few days ago.

DSMTuners Classifieds: '99 7-bolt block

What are your END goals? That would help deciding which route you should take.



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-Corey Jenson

E-OCHOCINCO Powered FP HTA68 / stock 7-bolt / Shep 4
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Old 02-09-2011, 09:44 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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From: Durango, Colorado
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What if i want to use my block? I dont want to spend another 400 on a block shipped. Im stretching my budget to finish this car, Im just wondering what a good way is to build my bottom end to try and prevent anything that i can from happening. Oil squirters?
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:24 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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From: South Gilbert, Arizona
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The 7-bolt block's already run oil squirter's, they just aren't as easily identified as the 6-bolt blocks squirter's are. Here is a picture of the location of the 7-bolt oil squirter's, the blocks been cut away a bit to make them easier to spot. The A is pointing to their location, and the pictures following that show that the oil squirter itself looks like.





So, now that you know the above (if you didn't already), Magnus Motorsports actually machines their 7-bolts to except 1g oil squirter's. It sounds like you're trying to keep cost down, which you won't be doing if you send your block to Magnus, but here's the read from their webpage.

Magnus Motorsports - Crankwalk Theory

I hope I was able to help you, or at least got you pointed in the right direction.



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E-OCHOCINCO Powered FP HTA68 / stock 7-bolt / Shep 4
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