My service manual says to torque the rod bolts 14.5ft/lbs plus 90* and my mains to 18 ft/lbs plus 90* as well , is that right?
That's what it say's in 7 bolt manuals, and you're suppose to use a torque angle gauge for best results otherwise just guesstimate with markings. ( white out)
That's what it say's in 7 bolt manuals, and you're suppose to use a torque angle gauge for best results otherwise just guesstimate with markings. ( white out)
For my stock rod bolts, I just took a hammer and tapped the old ones out then tapped the new ones in. I torqued them both down to 14.5 ft/lbs and plastigauged them. After that I torqued them all down to 14.5 ft/lbs and pretty much just eyeballed the 90* turn. I guess we'll see what happens when I get it back together. Not saying this is the right way, but thats how I did it with the stock 2g rod bolts.
I torqued my ARP main studs to 65 ft/lbs. Just make sure to do them in the right sequence and do them in increments with the last being the biggest jump.
Good Luck!
____________________________
Caleb
Yes I'm the 14th owner
Rod bolt stretch is definitely the MOST accurate, followed by angle torquing, then by click click. The worse part is that a bolt stretch gauge is super expensive for a weekend wrench spinner.
Rod bolt stretch is definitely the MOST accurate, followed by angle torquing, then by click click. The worse part is that a bolt stretch gauge is super expensive for a weekend wrench spinner.
40 bucks from jegs or summit will get you a good rod bolt stretch gauge.
ARP's site lists the torque angle method as the least accurate, not saying your wrong, just saying I definitely trust ARP.
Torquing main and rod bolts
