How to install stock rod bolts?

[DeNoZZo]

This is for a 95 btw, not a 1g. They have different rod bolts.


So after realizing I couldn't use my stock rod bolts a second time, I went ahead and ordered a new set of oem ones. This may be a stupid question, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask when dealing with the bottom end. How do I install the new bolts? I would assume I would just pound the old ones out with a mallet, and slide the new ones in. Can anyone shine some light on this as they should be arriving in the mail soon, and I would like to get my car back together.

 

[donniekak]

You need to press the old ones out, and press in the new ones. I would get arp's, the 2g stockers are a risk. Just torquing them to check the clearance, or to get the rods resized will stretch them. Most rod bolts are torqued 3 times on install to seat them properly, but i'm sure that would stretch the stockers.

 

[DeNoZZo]

You need to press the old ones out, and press in the new ones. I would get arp's, the 2g stockers are a risk. Just torquing them to check the clearance, or to get the rods resized will stretch them. Most rod bolts are torqued 3 times on install to seat them properly, but i'm sure that would stretch the stockers.

So I pretty much need a machine shop to install them?

I heard they are 19ft/lbs with a 90* turn after that to torque them. I was told that I could just put them on at 19 ft/lbs just to check the clearances. Can anyone confirm that?

 

[BogusSVO]

yes you will need a machine shop to install them, when you press out then press in the new ones, you will egg shape the big end bore, making it out of spec, the diffrance between hi spec nand low spec is .0007 yes 7 tenths of one thoudsands of one inch
I would advise that you spend the few extra bucks and get the ARP rod bolts

 

[DeNoZZo]

yes you will need a machine shop to install them, when you press out then press in the new ones, you will egg shape the big end bore, making it out of spec, the diffrance between hi spec nand low spec is .0007 yes 7 tenths of one thoudsands of one inch
I would advise that you spend the few extra bucks and get the ARP rod bolts

So what do I need to have the machine shop do to make it within spec?

And I already ordered the oem ones , and I'm behind on the build with time and on a very tight budget.

 

[donniekak]

The machine shop will mill a few thousandths off the rod cap. Then they will put the cap on and torque the bolts. They will then hone the inside of the big end to spec.

 

[DeNoZZo]

I talked to someone tonight that is very reputable with rebuilding motors. He said I should be able to just take a mallet and punch the old ones out and then tap the new ones in myself. Has anyone ever heard of this?

 

[adrian2627]

just take a rubber mallet to it and pound them out, ive done this to my rebuild and its a no brainer. they are not press fit into the rod.

 

[DeNoZZo]

just take a rubber mallet to it and pound them out, ive done this to my rebuild and its a no brainer. they are not press fit into the rod.

Thats what I thought, I am thinking these guys are thinking of if I put studs in.

Do I just push them in then?

 

[BogusSVO]

you can try... you may get lucky... you may not... if a rod bearing spins you can always pyll the head, and drop the oil pan and pull the rods and have them resized then.

I have only resized a few hundred rods after installing new rod bolts.....

 

[DeNoZZo]

you can try... you may get lucky... you may not... if a rod bearing spins you can always pyll the head, and drop the oil pan and pull the rods and have them resized then.

I have only resized a few hundred rods after installing new rod bolts.....

I may just test my luck. If dsm graveyard ever ships my f-in order. It's been almost a week and it hasn't shipped.

 

[donniekak]

Resizing rods is usually around $15 each, pretty cheap. You can get away with honing a cylinder yourself for stock size replacement pistons. You can just clean the block and head real good for a composite gasket, and skip resurfacing them. You can skip polishing a crank if it came out of a known running car. 1g's can even reuse rod bolts, and head bolts. Changing rod bolts yourself without having them resized is really pushing it, you may get lucky. Or skimping $60 can cost you big. The big problem with doing 2g rod bolt is that you don't have a press. Tightening the nuts to pull the bolt into its seat on the rod probably will stretch the bolts, if you even get the bolts to seat.

 

[MMS40]

what do you do if you wanna change a 1g?
i spun a bearing and was thinkin about getting arp's,
and getting a rpd out of my spare motor

 

[DeNoZZo]

what do you do if you wanna change a 1g?
i spun a bearing and was thinkin about getting arp's,
and getting a rpd out of my spare motor

I don't think the 6 bolt rods are tty (torque to yield). You should be able to re-use them.

 

[MMS40]

I don't think the 6 bolt rods are tty (torque to yield). You should be able to re-use them.

ive heard that to i just didnt kno because i spun it. ..

 

[donniekak]

If you spun a bearing i wouldn't use the rod that spun, it's probably discolored from heat damage, and even if it's resized it will be weak.

 

[4g64fiero]

you can try... you may get lucky... you may not... if a rod bearing spins you can always pyll the head, and drop the oil pan and pull the rods and have them resized then.

I have only resized a few hundred rods after installing new rod bolts.....

Yeah every dsm I have seen with a spun bearing had damaged the journals on the crank. Its hard for me to imagine a spun bearing without journal damage to the crank. That means a rebuild of the bottom end. I get your joke, I just dont think noobs will.

You can skip polishing a crank if it came out of a known running car.

I agree with everything but that. Sometimes you can, sometimes you cant.