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Old 09-25-2009, 06:01 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Oil Pump Problem

A friend brought his Talon to me to fix a leaking seal on the oil pump behind the drive cog on the front cover. After taking it apart the seal was indeed wrecked but the shaft was also no centered in the hole? I took the front cover off the car and there is tons of scoring on the cover and gears and the shaft. He put all this stuff in new a year ago and never had and problems till now? Has anyone seen this before. Oh and this was using the straight cut gears. Thanks Ron
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Old 09-26-2009, 05:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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I have seen it happen when a cheap balance shaft eliminator kit is used. I have seen them take a motor out in ~500 miles.


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Old 09-26-2009, 06:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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This was all mitsu stuff.
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Old 09-26-2009, 08:22 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Was it discolored or was it actually showing wear with material missing? Like a piece of metal got through the screen and chewed them up?


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Old 10-22-2009, 11:31 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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I'm having this same problem. I have eaten 2 oil pumps and both only lasted about 1000miles. They were fine until I did some off highway highspeed pulls.

Both pumps were strait gears and I used the stubshaft from my 1.6liter that was fine in the car for 7years with no wear. the motor is a jdm 2.0 turbo

The first time I thought the timing belt was too tight so we changed the pump and front case and set the belt loose. it did the same thing. We did reuse the tensioner. both times. as it looked new and was not leaking. This time I installed a new tensioner, new belt (gates regular) had a new power enterprise before.(I know the belt wasn't the problem but I had to change it to appease my friend.)

I ported he oil relief valve. and the 1.6 had the oil relief in the head. these are the only differences I can think of between the 1.6 that had no problems and the 2.0 pump killer

What is doing this!!?? I'm afraid to drive the car as changing the front case is a hugh pitain the mirage turbo; and I am not allowed back in the shop for at least 3 months!! (everyone is tired of working on my car me included)

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Old 10-22-2009, 12:08 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95blackGsTurbo View Post
I have seen it happen when a cheap balance shaft eliminator kit is used. I have seen them take a motor out in ~500 miles.
I can one up you. A cheap ebay BSE kit took out my pump in 250 miles.
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Old 10-26-2009, 12:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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does anyone have any idea why these pumps are dieing???

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Old 10-26-2009, 02:44 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Stubby shafts aren't properly balanced.


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Old 10-26-2009, 08:46 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Alot of the ebay or cheap shafts dont have a lubrication hole drilled in the center of the shaft causing them to fail.
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:52 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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What's the solution to this, then?

I have a new car, 94 2.0 NT. It came with reciepts for a new engine, rebuilt by "craig's custom engines" 25,000 miles ago. It also has a reciept for a new oil-pump, case & gears, about 15,000 miles ago.

I flew to Spokane to pick-it up, and before I made it 2 blocks down the street I pooped my pants when I looked at the oil pressure guage. It was way lower than I ever saw on my old car, and that car had 215,000 miles on the original engine, never rebuilt. So I had a jiffy-lube swap the oil for 15-w40 rotella, and drove it home. We made it.

The timing belt and oil pan both have to come off anyway, so I guess I get to pull the pump and check it, too. Is the only solution to this all new OEM parts? Will oem gears in an aftermarket case do the trick?
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Its best to stick with oem gears in an oem case. I have used a top line case for 25,000 miles with a mitsu stuby with no problems. Are you guys lubing the shafts on the stuby and the big oil gear and prelubing the pump with assembly lube??
From what I have seen its a lack of lubrication causing the problem. Starting up an engine with out little to no lube in the case can cause serious problems.


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Old 11-01-2009, 11:48 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95blackGsTurbo View Post
Stubby shafts aren't properly balanced.
my stub shaft is the mirage turbo stock mitsu one. and I have had one in my stock mirage motor for 7years and had zero problems.

And the front case was fine the oil pump section that was damaged was on the sprocket on the timing belt. And it was not set too tight. It was within spec.

After talking to people on the evo forum I am thinking that it was the tensioner or than anything.

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