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Questions on valve work

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Gstclipse69

15+ Year Contributor
666
15
Jun 30, 2006
Columbia, South Carolina
Hey guys, long story short my valve stem seals are leaking a bit again. The reason they are leaking again is because a couple of the valves have some scratches on them. So I am going to have to pull the head so I can replace them. No big deal, I think it will be fun :) And I'll have a chance to put a fresh head gasket on there.

My question is I have a spare head and I have pulled the valves out of them. They look real dirty. Will I be able to take these valves to a machine shop and have them hot-tank them and get them good and cleaned up? Also if I do end up using these valves will I simply be able to pull my valves out and put these in? I have read things regarding the valves "seating right" and I am not 100% sure on this.

If I wont end up being able to use these valves and I get another stock set, or any other set for that matter, will I still be able to pull the valve spring and simply put the new valve in or will any of this require machine work? Thanks, here are a couple pics of the valves

http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/turbotalon4/valves001.jpg

http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv71/turbotalon4/valves003.jpg
 
yes the valve should be able to be used once they are cleaned up and the seat face ground,(in the pic a few look bent?)
If any of the valves are bent in the head you plan on using, check the guides for cracks and chips, if you find any with this damage, the guides need to be changed and the seats cut(valve job).

I am on a friends computer right now, but if you look through my posts, the "How to" ones, you will see about back cutting valves, guide work, and surfacing a head for a MLS HG
 
If I wont end up being able to use these valves and I get another stock set, or any other set for that matter, will I still be able to pull the valve spring and simply put the new valve in or will any of this require machine work?

Personally I would just take the head to a machine shop and have the head worked. A good resurfacing and valve job should cost somewhere around $100. ^^^He will be able to tell you better. Its been a year since I had a head at the shop.

If you don't want to spend the money on machine work, then at least lap the valves in. You can get valve lapping compound and the tool at NAPA for about $15-20.

Make sure the head sealing surface is within spec before you decide to not get it worked. Also, just use a composite gasket and save yourself the headache of an MLS not sealing right w/o the proper block and head surface finish.
 
Thanks for the advice. I think the valves are ok. In the picture they are not on a flat surface whatsoever so I think that may be deceiving. I am planning on using an oem composite headgasket and I will check the surface for flatness before putting it on. It will get resurfaced if it is out of spec. I am just pulling the head because of the scratches on a few valves that keep blowing the valve stem seal, so none of my current valves are bent. I would imagine the valve guides are ok but I will inspect them.
I saw your how to on lapping the valves in. Very informative thanks.:)
I have a tool to pull the valve springs with so I figued if I could swap out the valves myself why not. Thanks guys
 
glad that post help you.

from what I am finding out, most all the time the springs are wore out. I would bet yours are too.
I would get a set of valve springs, I like the BC and they work well with the stock retainers, and install them at the same time.

you may want to run the valves to a machine shop and just get them refaced before you lap them in.
 
Good advice but I have FP2x cams and Manley valve springs with less than 2k on them. :thumb: Well I am going to take the valves up to the machine shop so when I drop them off so they can clean them up then I'll tell them to reface them while I'm there. Thanks!
 
glad you have new springs! that should help the rev a bit.

Best of luck with it!
 
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