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Stroker?

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ilikespeeding

15+ Year Contributor
839
4
Nov 13, 2005
Greenville, North Carolina
Ok, I bought a car from a friend who had trouble getting the car running. He bought the car from a Tuners member who said that the engine was fully built and was a stroker, showing reciepts. We believed him and paid and took the car home. 1 year later I pull off the valve cover and find stock cams with stock springs. I still have all the papers he gave us, so I looked up the company that he bought the motor from, and they aren't in business anymore. Is there anyway I could figure out if I have a stroker or not?
 
you can measure the stroke with a long screwdriver down a spark plug hole.
I dont remember specs but I'm sure someone on here does.
 
you can measure the stroke with a long screwdriver down a spark plug hole.
I dont remember specs but I'm sure someone on here does.


Stock is 88mm strokers have 100mm stroke.
A wooden dowel would be less likely to scrach the top of the piston.
 
Stock is 88mm strokers have 100mm stroke.
A wooden dowel would be less likely to scrach the top of the piston.

I guess I'll do this right after I get done with my T-Belt job. So just rotate the motor to BDC and measure? What do I use as the reference?
 
I guess I'll do this right after I get done with my T-Belt job. So just rotate the motor to BDC and measure? What do I use as the reference?

at cylinder 1 at BDC, make a mark where the dowel meets the valve cover, then put cylinder 1 at TDC and make a mark again. then measure the distance between the two marks.
 
at cylinder 1 at BDC, make a mark where the dowel meets the valve cover, then put cylinder 1 at TDC and make a mark again. then measure the distance between the two marks.


That will work. But if your lazy or left handed just leave cylinder 1 at BDC for the reference mark then without moving the crank, measure down to the piston in cylinder 2.

(Or like me lazy and left handed.)
 
Well that only works if all 4 of your cylinders are strokers. ROFL

Good one :thumb: that belly laugh stayed with me for a while. Even if all four cylinders of my Talon are stroked. Then the mental image of a rebuild with one cylinder stroked and three stock hurt again. Does the Z in your signature stand for Zinger?
 
Ok, I bought a car from a friend who had trouble getting the car running. He bought the car from a Tuners member who said that the engine was fully built and was a stroker, showing reciepts. We believed him and paid and took the car home. 1 year later I pull off the valve cover and find stock cams with stock springs. I still have all the papers he gave us, so I looked up the company that he bought the motor from, and they aren't in business anymore. Is there anyway I could figure out if I have a stroker or not?

Don't regrinds have stock cam markings?
 
Bigger ? to ask is "which" stroker is the paper work saying the car has (2.1, 2.3 2.4)? Which if I says a 2.4 just look at the block code. Also can tell by looking at the water pump. The 2.4 block is a taller block then the 2.0 and has more clearence, or could look at the timing belt part number.....
Matt
 
Bigger ? to ask is "which" stroker is the paper work saying the car has (2.1, 2.3 2.4)? Which if I says a 2.4 just look at the block code. Also can tell by looking at the water pump. The 2.4 block is a taller block then the 2.0 and has more clearence, or could look at the timing belt part number.....
Matt

I thought the 4G64 was made from the same cast as the 4G63?

It's supposed to be a 2.3
 
Why would the main caps be ground down?

Don't quote me because I have not looked big into the strokers due to I like the rev's of 2.0's. Only reason to clearence main caps is when you are running aluminum rods. And with the bigger Aluminum rods or the 2.4 crank in a 2.0 block, sometimes the lower skirts of the cylinder walls need to be clearenced.
Matt
 
I know I just never heard of clearancing the mains on a steel rod motor before and I build alot of them. You also need to clearance the bottom of the cylinders on steel rod motors to.
 
What is it 7 bolt or a 6 bolt? The main caps would be grounded off because the crank's stroke is bigger and the rod caps would be hitting the mains, at least that's how it is on a 6 bolt...
 
Thats not how it is on a 6 bolt. The rod and mains are running parallel to each other and there for can never come into contact with each other regardless of the stroke.
 
Thats not how it is on a 6 bolt. The rod and mains are running parallel to each other and there for can never come into contact with each other regardless of the stroke.

We are talking about the main CAPS. The brace that runs under the rod for cyl 1 and 4. Cyl 2 and 3 have nothing to hit (main caps that is).
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/parts/moroso/oilpan-off3.jpg

BUT you CAN have issues with the big end of the rod catching the physical cylinder wall. I have seen an aluminum rod, stroked motor have so many clearence problems to the point I would rather take a plasma cutter to the damn block:mad: then grind all day. 7 bolts have the main girdle's and can have rod clearence issue's even worse because it if one rod will hit the mains, ALL 4 will hit.
Matt

Also I found this while searching
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/stroker-tech/266294-stroker-main-cap-clearances.html
 
Oh the cross brace not the cap itself! I was trying to picture how anything could hit the actual cap? And yet you would have to clearance the connecting brace! Just misunderstood what was trying to be said.
 
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