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My new setup!

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WOTDSM

15+ Year Contributor
167
0
Dec 3, 2006
Detroit, Michigan
Just a mild street setup that should be capable of +500HP w00t
~6 bolt block bored 1mm over (0.40), hot tanked, resurfaced.
~2g pistons, 1mm over sized
~ARP headstuds/cometic headgasket package from extremepsi.com
~Hastings 1mm piston rings
~Clevite P-series main bearings
~Clevite P series rod bearings
~Good crank, hasn't been polished.
~1g big rods that have the 1g pistons on them.
~Newish oil pan
~Balance shaft eliminator kit



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All I need is a bottom end gasket set, a new water pump, an auto tensioner (partsdinosaur.com), and a timing belt kit (autozone ftw).
I'll be using this on the stock head, 14b, and stock fueling until my fundage increases then I'm thinking of going with a small 16g for its quick spooling characteristics, SAFC2, 550's, and a walbro 190 or evo FP. My only question is, should I be worried about crazy amounts of knock with the CR raised to 8.8:1? I already get pretty bad knock (mod list up to date in profile). Bad enough to melt a plug, I ran a can of seafoam through the tank but that didn't help, maybe I should get the 190 before the swap... LMK what you all think about this setup!
-Andrew
 

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I'd check to see why your getting knock first and foremost... I don't think 2g pistons will cause the knock, but 1g's are very agressive on timing so just log some pulls and tune carefully. good luck with the car man. setup seems ok, I'd suggest getting a new oem crank pulley also (unless your getting your rotating assembly fully balanced.
 
I would assume its a clogged injector mixed with phantom knock. Running stock boost with 93 octane I will get 4-12 counts from 3k up till about 4.5k and then it counts 45-50... I am thinking since I melted one plug, that injector is clogged. My o2 voltage is also between .85-.9 throughout the band. I pulled the rail, inspected the injectors, they all LOOKED fine but, of course, that has no bearing on how they perform inside... When I pulled the rail I cleaned it and the injectors but still no help. Is there anyway to test the injectors to make sure they are operating correctly? Preferrably something free insted of sending them out to have them balanced and cleaned.
 
Update: This past weekend I replaced my timing belt and re-phased the rear balance shaft (I removed the belt for the front one... I know, naughty naughty, but I'm building a new motor anyway and besides, I'd rather replace a b-shaft bearing insted of a head) so I eliminated that nasty vibration I was getting at 3k-redline, that also eliminated the phantom knock. w00t! I still get 1-2 counts at WOT from like 2.5k-4k but, as you know, that's nothing to be concerned with. I also get ~45 counts when bogging the motor (flooring it at <2K) but it also vibrates slightly, I'm assuming because of the b-shaft belt removal, so I'm thinking the vibration is phantom knock, yet again. Anyways, just thought I'd share my happiness from the lack of icky motor vibration!!!
 
The max you can see is 43 counts of knock, first of all. Second, I would recommend against the Autozone timing belt kit. You hear how often these cars skip time and bend valves...why chance it? Test and fix any boost leaks if you haven't recently, it may help reduce your knock counts. Check your knock sensor also to make sure the black goo hasn't leaked off the sensor and onto the block. You can stick your hand back there without removing anything and feeling around the block for the goo below the sensor.
 
Thanks for the words of wisdom guys. I appreciate it. I will take your advice and get an OEM mitsu timing belt. I apologize to Defiant and have edited the pictures down. One question: a friend of mine was saying since I got 1mm oversized rings for my oversized pistons I wouldn't need to shave any material off the rings to get them in spec. Is that true?
 
You still have to set the gaps for the rings according to how you are going to run the engine, in other words yes you will need to file the rings.
 
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