cleaning internal engine

[qwktalon]

What would you guys use to clean the internals of the engine before assembly? Also is there a good engine assembly lube to use to install the crank and rods?

 

[JayRolla]

Do a search and type "seafoam". You will see what you need

 

[99redgst]

Most machine shops have a hot tank or blasting cabinet. Shouldn't cost more than 50 and will leave you with a clean block.

 

[RiceKiller_TSi]

I agree with ^^
Take them to the shop and get them hot tanked and they'll look better than if you tried to do it yourself.

 

[groundPork]

I usually follow this procedure:

Hot tank (not jetwash, and never ever bead or sand blast) the block after it's been completely stripped of all external parts and plugs except the caps and bolts
After removing from the tank and being rinsed off with a pressurised hand held washer, oil the block down thuroughly with wd-40 or similar penetrating spray on oil.

After all block machine work, deburring, lapping gasket surfaces, chasing threaded holes to clear out any left over junk, I would wash the block in hot soappy water (tide works great), being extra careful to really clean out the main oil galleries and bores., rinsing should be done very quickly with a high pressure washing wand (using shop air), and immidiately sprayed down afterword with wd-40 or equivalent to prevent rusting (drown the block in oil!!!) Make sure every surface is oiled inside and out.

For the rest, I have found that a small parts washer filled with laquer thinner works great!, of course always finishing up with hot soap and water (nearby sink with running water helps a tone) then immidiately oiling the parts and blowing them off with high pressure shop air. This will accomplish at least a couple things.

If there is any risidual debris, the excess of thin oil can help wash it away as you blow the parts off.
IT prevents the parts from rusting,
helps bead the wateroff the parts

and makes a huge friggen mess!

Finally prior to measureing and final inspection for any further debris (performed in the same room as the assembly will take place to avoid any other contaminents on the freshly cleaned parts), wipe everything down with LINT FREE shop paper towels. Do not ever use old rags or shop raggs or napkins. They all like to leave lint and foreign debris which make double work. Also shop rags often trap metal chips in there fibers. I pay special attention with some wd-40 and in rare cases acetone to the bores surface. Making sure that every last bit of honing abrasive is removed from the cylinder wall, then finally oiling the bore down with a squeeky clean hand and your preferred ring assembly oil (I like 10 w non detergenated).

Now, I cannot stress enough how important it is to wipe everything down clean lint free cloth till the cloth shows no more dark staining. This will help eliminate the possiblity of any residual junk running through the motor.

I'd say it's near impossible to get 100% of all loose particles, but some of it that you can't is usually small enough it can't cause harm and gets trapped in the oil filter or falls to the bottom of the pan, and gets drained out.

 

[qwktalon]

Well I took my engine to the engine shop around here last time and to put it short they are the reason my car hasnt moved for 2 yrs. I also just want to get the car going again because I need to be able to drive it here in a couple of days. That is why im looking for the fastest and easiest way to do this.