ARP Head Stud Torque Specs??

[eyebrowski]

i turqued my head using a manual that told me to torque from the inside out??? i have ARP studs and a metal headgasket, the car has not been started yet. should i retorque from the inside out or is the way they told me to ok?

 

[jltcat]

not sure what sequence to torque but you should torque at least twice. Stretching/crushing can occur that will throw off the torque setting when you first tighten the studs.

 

[autronicDSM]

torque in stages, this how i always torque with arp head studs and stock gasket 20, 0, 20, 50, 80

and that's the general sequence you torque in (don't have the service manual on hand)

7-5-1-3-10
9-4-2-6-8

 

[eyebrowski]

but should i loosen the studs and retorque them if i torqued them in the opposite direction? this is how the haynes manual told me to do it

 

[autronicDSM]

You mean from outside-in? That's a loosening sequence. I made the same mistake when doing HG first time, I never bothered to turn the page to see a sequence for torquing it back. Of course my HG still leaked and I was pissed.

I would loosen the studs and re do them in the right sequence and this time go 10lbs higher on the last stage then you did last time to make sure gasket is compressed. Did you use copper spray? You might have to pull the head off and clean the surafces. You don't want to go back to fixing it 3rd time

 

[eyebrowski]

i just double checked my haynes manual and theymust have mixed up the torquing sequence...they say to tight outside-in and loosen iside-out. oh well i will redo it. no copper spray, i was told not to do that witht he metal HG.

 

[autronicDSM]

I have a mitsu service manual and that's what they say. chilton and haynes aren't worth a crap imo.

 

[1995badgsx]

using arp's on a 7 bolt motor, hks metal head gasket, new bj head, blocked is decked, everything is perfect

the arps said torque studs to 71ft lbs with arp lube

i went hand tight, then 65ft lbs, and then 80

now a guy in town said i should have went 25-50-75

do i need to loosen and re-do or what????

thanks

 

[BUCK]

you are fine - do NOT untorque it.

 

[1995badgsx]

thanks

 

[1995badgsx]

heres some pics

turbo is a fp3065, i had a fp3055 on the stock motor

 

[1995badgsx]

heres some pics before assembly, i got some new ones comin, with the engine all together

 

[1fast97gsx]

Nice setup man. How much did you spend on the headwork? I did my bottom end last winter, but I think my valves are leaking a tad beause I get some whitish smoke at idle. I plan on doing the head shortly so I was just wondering what all you did to it and how much it cost.

As far as the headstuds ... I personally don't think it matters as long as you go in increments and in the right order. The first time I did a set of arps I just went straight to 80 ft lbs on all of them ( in the right order though ) and had no problems either. As long as the block and head are perfectly level you should be ok. The second time I went 20, 40, 60 ,80, and that sealed fine as well. Don't worry about it man you're fine.

*** Edit .. just reread your first post and saw it was a whole new head and not your stock one. How mcuh did the new one cost you?

 

[1995badgsx]

its a stage 5 bj head, 2000.00

the short block, i ended up having around 2500.00 in it (i didnt buy a kit, i made my on stroker)

montero crank 7 bolt (knife edged, nitraded, lightened)750.00
rods (eagle) 350.00
pistons (je) 475.00 w/rings
machine work and assembly 920.00
then of course arps, hks head gasket,etc

but the montero crank worked out nice and fit perfect

and i also blocked off the oil squirters, that was highly recommended

send me a message when you start the rebuild, ill give ya all the info i have....later

 

[1fast97gsx]

its a stage 5 bj head, 2000.00

the short block, i ended up having around 2500.00 in it (i didnt buy a kit, i made my on stroker)

montero crank 7 bolt (knife edged, nitraded, lightened)750.00
rods (eagle) 350.00
pistons (je) 475.00 w/rings
machine work and assembly 920.00
then of course arps, hks head gasket,etc

but the montero crank worked out nice and fit perfect

and i also blocked off the oil squirters, that was highly recommended

send me a message when you start the rebuild, ill give ya all the info i have....later

Cool setup man. Yea thanks .. I actaully have a built motor as well ( ross / eagle combo ) and I did the 1g head swap ... but the head has leaky valves so now I'm looking to build the head as well.

 

[TSIfreek]

its a stage 5 bj head, 2000.00

the short block, i ended up having around 2500.00 in it (i didnt buy a kit, i made my on stroker)

montero crank 7 bolt (knife edged, nitraded, lightened)750.00
rods (eagle) 350.00
pistons (je) 475.00 w/rings
machine work and assembly 920.00
then of course arps, hks head gasket,etc

but the montero crank worked out nice and fit perfect

and i also blocked off the oil squirters, that was highly recommended

send me a message when you start the rebuild, ill give ya all the info i have....later

Why the block off of the oil squiters? What were the reasons you had this done?? From what I understand the squirters cool the piston and provide more oil to go into the oil ring and then the cylinder wall. Let me know your thoughts everyone

 

[TSIfreek]

Also the final torgue on the head is what ever the machineist used to on the torque plate while honing the block. Usually this is 75-80 FT LBS. Call your machineist if your that worryed about it but I wouldnt loose sleep over it.

 

[1995badgsx]

marco at magnus motorsports has a theory about this oil squirters!

they believe that there the cause of alot of crank walk because they pull oil from the bearing

go to their site and read it, its pretty staight up

later

 

[TSIfreek]

marco at magnus motorsports has a theory about this oil squirters!

they believe that there the cause of alot of crank walk because they pull oil from the bearing

go to their site and read it, its pretty staight up

later

Thanks, I will gheck it out. It does make sense though.

 

[90BLKTALONTSI]

I just put in a rebuilt head that I purchased with a cometic HG...I torqued the head bolts down to 85 ftlbs, on some threads here I'm reading 90 ft lbs. Is 85 ft lbs good enough...I want to do this right and if it needs to be 90 ft lbs, can I just set the torque wrench to 90 and continue in the right sequence to torque down the bolts or do I have to loosen the bolts and start over? Any feed back would be appreciated....Thanks...

 

[XtReMeToYz]

I would refer to the specifications for the headbolts. Although, 85 ft/lb does sound alright

 

[dsm1kenobe]

I just put in a rebuilt head that I purchased with a cometic HG...I torqued the head bolts down to 85 ftlbs, on some threads here I'm reading 90 ft lbs. Is 85 ft lbs good enough...I want to do this right and if it needs to be 90 ft lbs, can I just set the torque wrench to 90 and continue in the right sequence to torque down the bolts or do I have to loosen the bolts and start over? Any feed back would be appreciated....Thanks...

What headstuds do you have, ARPs? If so, follow the instructions that came with them: 80 ftlbs w/the supplied moly lube, or 120ftlbs with 30 wt engine oil.

 

[90BLKTALONTSI]

I have ARP's but I got them off of an auction so there was no torque instructions on them. I used the arp lube grease and torqued to 85 ft lbs in the correct sequence...I hope I didn't overtorque them....I know some people have torqued 90 ft lbs, just wanted to make sure I torqued them down with enough ft lbs....

 

[dsm1kenobe]

I have ARP's but I got them off of an auction so there was no torque instructions on them. I used the arp lube grease and torqued to 85 ft lbs in the correct sequence...I hope I didn't overtorque them....I know some people have torqued 90 ft lbs, just wanted to make sure I torqued them down with enough ft lbs....

85 is fine. Make sure to check torques again after you drive the car around.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Hell, I torque my ARP's down in this sequence: 25ftlbs/50ftlbs/ 105ftlbs, using the ARP moly lube. Then I drive the car around for about 10 minutes. Then give them a once over.