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Valve Stem Seal Replacement HELP!!!

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GreenTurbulence

Probationary Member
19
0
Apr 1, 2003
Gainesville, Florida
Hey all, I read up on all the threads I could find regarding valve stem seal replacement, and none answered the questions I have. The very first question I have is: can someone use a Miller Tool Valve Spring Compressor to change the seals without having to redo a timing belt job? According to VFAQ, the timing belt must be off to use this tool, nevertheless on a DSMTUNERS thread titled "Valve Spring Compressor," a picture is shown where a Miller tool is being used, and the person zip tied the cam gears to the timing belt. Since in order to change the seals on the valves of a cylinder one must compress that cylinder, what happens when moving on to a different cylinder that actually requires the rotation of the crank, since the cam gears are already zip tied to the belt? I have heard that there is a way to do this, and it saves a timing belt job, but I have no idea what else is tobe done in order to prevent the timing belt from skipping teeth while working on the head? Anything that needs to be down towards the bottom half of the timing belt to keep it on track?

The second question is the following: when using the compressed rope to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder, while compressing the cylinder, should this be done by hand using the crank pulley? or can it be done by cranking the engine over via ignition? Also, this would conflict with that I mentioned above, since cranking the engine over would definitely change the settings of the bottom part of the timing belt and the cam gears would end up somewhere else???

And my final question: The Miller tool is rather pricey, and I heard there are only a few other tools that will get the job done, I have found one on this link

http://www.toyotool.com/valvemaster.htm

and I am unsure on whether it would work or not. Has anyone had any experience with this tool? It seems to me like it would work, there's even a video that can be watched to observe the way it is used and it seems to be compact enough to work on a 4g63 head but I would definitely like to get second opinions on this before I dump 95 bucks on it.

If someone could answer all these questions for me I will be very greatful, as my car really needs new valve stem seals and it's my daily driver, therefore I cannot stop it for more than a day, and before getting into the job, I want to be as positive as possible that everything may work out right. Thank you all and hope to hear from someone soon! :thumb:
 
here's the scoop, to do a valve seal replacement you must take the cams out. The picture on vfaq shows the timing belt zip tied-here's how you do that. Set the motor on TDC, the put 2 to 3 zip ties on both cam gears, to keep the belt from moving off time. Then take the bolts off that are holding the cam gears on the cams. Now you can take the cams out to get to the valve springs. When you are ready to do a cylinder, use shop air (compesser) and a compression tester lead to put air pressure into the cylinder. If you fail to do this, the valve will drop into the cylinder and you'll have to take the head off!!! On that same cyliner that is pressureized, use the miller tool to take off the valve springs, keep them in order. Then just replace the seals. When you go to the next cylinder, you must move the air line to the next cylinder, to keep those valves up. Hope that helps.
 
Hey thanks a lot man, it definitely helps and makes sense. Quick question, say I have decided to go with a new head, can I do the same, but instead of replacing the seals can I just take the head out after removing the cam gears while zip tied to the t-belt? Thanks
 
Hang on! isnt there a long threaded bolt that you have to screw in to push against the tensioner or you will never get the belts back on!! How do you turn the motor with the timing belts tied to get your cyl's up so the valves dont drop? When you pressurize the cyl's that are up they will push straight to the BDC turning the engine!!!! I would look a bit further into this before starting the job!!
 
It's a bear, but you can get the gears back onto the cams, if you are worried about it you can also tie the cam gears up high so it keeps tension on the tensioner and it won't change. As far as moving the engine, you take the cams out and remove the cam gears from the cams so you don't have to turn the motor at all, as long as you don't use 5000psi of air the motor won't turn, so use like 40 about, you just have to watch it.
 
man thats a whole lot of trouble just to get around takin the front cover off and redoing the timing belt its not as difficult as it may seem as for the special tensioner bolt not needed just take the tensioner all the way off compress it in a vise or with a pair of pliers and stick a very small drill bit or something similar through the coresponding holes in the body of the tensioner and the plunger then pull it out when the belt is set back up i havent actually used the air method but as stuck as my keepers were i would think it might be a pain with air just to get them broken loose i didnt even use the rope i just turned the particular cyl. i was working on to tdc about a 1/4 in. down or so the valve will hit the piston youll have to compress the spring allitle more but it didnt give me any probs i personally used a homemade spring compressor consisting of some square tubing bolted to the caps w/ threads through it at the right angle which pushes a deepwell socket with one side cut out down on the spring dont have an address handy but im sure if you search for homemade valve spring compressors you find a page somewhere on how to make one similar to one i have i know theres one involving a c clamp a long bar and the socket with a side cut out
 
buy a haynes manual at the parts store itll give you insight on setting up timing belt and such id advise geting started on it as soon as possible on a friday and you should have no prob finishing by the end of the weekend
 
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