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Tig welding aluminum is easy!!

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ed1380

Supporting VIP
2,971
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Sep 29, 2007
ATL, Georgia
I thought after I layed down my first ever bead.
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So I started welding the brace in the tab for my intercooler, and the little square washer up top. It was much harder to get it to melt! But I finally tacked it in after 10 minutes.
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Now to weld the tab to the intercooler! I couldn't get it to melt!! So I asked the professional to tack it down to the intercooler(photo above)
He also raised it to 155Amps. I tried for 30 minutes and all I got was these crappy tacks and I only got them when I got pissed and was pretty much flooring the pedal!!! The intercooler just didn't want to melt!!
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I finally gave up cause it was late and scrap 6" long filler gets hot real fast, but I'm hooked :D I've used mig in the past, but I suck at it too LOL
 

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The first weld doesnt look too bad if you have never done it before. Keep working at it and you'll get it!
 
Rule #1 with aluminum. Clean surfaces before welding. Or you will see imperfections which will cause failure. AKA the black stops.

Also looks like your putting way to much into the bead as well. You want to combine the surfaces, it shouldnt
raise up much above the metal.
 
Im going to college right now for highperformance and im doing tig/mig/ on aluminum steel and chrome molly, and its not easy..
 
I've always been interested in welding but honestly don't see my self ever doing it. I've watched a few videos on how to do mig and tig welds on aluminum but that's about the extent of my welding experience.
 
AWESOME


Here's a little basic tip: Aluminum has a oxidation layer which melts at a much higher temperature than the actual aluminum (3x higher!). So, you're deep in the pedal trying to melt through the outer layer, while the aluminum underneath is turing into a melted pool of goo (see images :D)

What you do: Get a stainless steel brush and scrape that layer off first. At first it will feel like the brush is sliding across the aluminum easily, not doing much. Then it will dig in, you'll feel resistance, and the oxide layer will be brushed away. You'll see the obvious visual difference.

Try again. Aluminum is funny to work with, but is one of the most weldable metals. Oh, clean the oxide off the filler rod too :thumb:
 
AWESOME


Here's a little basic tip: Aluminum has a oxidation layer which melts at a much higher temperature than the actual aluminum (3x higher!). So, you're deep in the pedal trying to melt through the outer layer, while the aluminum underneath is turing into a melted pool of goo (see images :D)

What you do: Get a stainless steel brush and scrape that layer off first. At first it will feel like the brush is sliding across the aluminum easily, not doing much. Then it will dig in, you'll feel resistance, and the oxide layer will be brushed away. You'll see the obvious visual difference.

Try again. Aluminum is funny to work with, but is one of the most weldable metals. Oh, clean the oxide off the filler rod too :thumb:

^^ exactly, i don't see any brush marks from removing the oxidation. Once you're really good you can actually weld a bead without cleaning if you HAVE to, but you should never do it.. all surfaces should be cleaned just prior to welding on aluminum. Aluminum oxide forms so fast that if i cleaned a part now, in 8 ho0urs it would have enough oxide on it again that it wouldn't weld any better than if i never cleaned it at all.

Another tip for aluminum, start out by flooring your pedal, then as the puddle forms start backing off to just the amount you need to keepit going, and as the bead gets longer and the part gets hotter yopu'll need less heat input too
 
AWESOME


Here's a little basic tip: Aluminum has a oxidation layer which melts at a much higher temperature than the actual aluminum (3x higher!). So, you're deep in the pedal trying to melt through the outer layer, while the aluminum underneath is turing into a melted pool of goo (see images :D)

What you do: Get a stainless steel brush and scrape that layer off first. At first it will feel like the brush is sliding across the aluminum easily, not doing much. Then it will dig in, you'll feel resistance, and the oxide layer will be brushed away. You'll see the obvious visual difference.

Try again. Aluminum is funny to work with, but is one of the most weldable metals. Oh, clean the oxide off the filler rod too :thumb:

that explains alot. I did clean the bracket and the tab, but I didn't clean the intercooler and it would bubble almost like it was boiling.
 
Looks like someone pooped on your intercooler.

LOL HAHAHA funny stuff right there

AWESOME


Here's a little basic tip: Aluminum has a oxidation layer which melts at a much higher temperature than the actual aluminum (3x higher!). So, you're deep in the pedal trying to melt through the outer layer, while the aluminum underneath is turing into a melted pool of goo (see images :D)

What you do: Get a stainless steel brush and scrape that layer off first. At first it will feel like the brush is sliding across the aluminum easily, not doing much. Then it will dig in, you'll feel resistance, and the oxide layer will be brushed away. You'll see the obvious visual difference.

Try again. Aluminum is funny to work with, but is one of the most weldable metals. Oh, clean the oxide off the filler rod too :thumb:

Great information! I love learning while reading threads, seems not to happen as much anymore.
 
It took me a while when I first started with the TIG, but it gets better :) when you get that stuff down go try some cast aluminum, like a valve cover or T-stat housing...... Piss ya off all over again :)
 
turboglenn had some good advise about flooring the pedal and letting off when you get the puddle started... I found it was easyer if you make sure that your tungsten is protected more, for example when I did it i would have the tungsten in so far you could hardly see it. basically you just watch the arc. as for the torch angle I ushually had mine close between 80-90 degrees and my rod at about 15-20 degreese (from the base of your miterial)

you should try welding stainless... it's a lot easyer for someone who hasen't had a lot of welding experience, it is also much more forgiving.

-Jaden
 
Welding stainless is easy..

It may not be very easy tho for someone just getting started tig welding...

Glenn knows his welding..

I myself have never welded aluminum..But I really want to try it..

Now OP..Get a bunch of peices of scrap, then get used to tig welding on that..Also tig welding on stainless is much easier so you could try on that too, get your skill down, then start on the aluminum..Just a thought..
 
I welded for a living until just this past year when I sent myself for some CAD classes but still do side work. I used to build oil pans and valve covers for the V8 guys then moved to stainless steel for the pharmaceutical business then to building anodized aluminum fishing towers for fishing yachts now back into the pharmaceutical stuff designing. If you need tips let me know I can help you out.

For some quick ones though, typically I notice newer TIG welders doing this, is DO NOT add filler rod as soon as you start the arc. (This is especially true with aluminum) Wait until you have a nice puddle going it'll look like a nice shiny liquid round puddle. After you get that than you quickly dip in your filler and move your torch very little for the next addition of filler. Some guys like to walk the cup others rest their wrist or hand on something or just have a steady hand.

As far as picking an amperage the 155amp ,for me, I feel is a little low for that material thickness but that will depend on how fast you move as well. Don't forget you can always regulate the heat as long as you’re using a foot pedal or a thumb switch so don't be shy and crank it up.
 
Depending on what your welding sometimes you may not be able to do that and need to "walk the cup." To walk the cup I like to set the edge of the cup on the material I'm welding and when its time to move I put my filler wire on the cup and use it to help steady the torch when I move. Again this is mainly for aluminum and how I do it.
 
Aluminum Welding Training on your own at home - YouTube

Gotta find your own style. All the tips in the world won't make up for sitting down and doing it. Some people pick it up the first day and run with it, other people struggle.

Do you have balance settings? If you do, it seems like there may not be enough cleaning going on
Aluminum TIG Welding: AC Balance Explained - YouTube

You'll see the oxide come off, and then a shiny puddle will appear.

In addition, use a stainless steel wire brush that you only use on aluminum.

Remember to have fun on the FSAE team. Too many people like to make it more work than fun.
 
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