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bpestilence

15+ Year Contributor
271
2
Jul 26, 2004
Pearl City, Hawaii
As my first of many fabrication threads, I will post my custom work on my current engine build. Right now I have the block out at the machine shop, and I decided to clean up some parts and break out the new DIY powdercoating rig that I got from Harbor Freight.

What you need to know: Powdercoating as you would expect is a little tougher than painting. Firstly, the parts have to be rediculously clean or the powder won't stick, since it works off of static charge. Once this stuff is cooked on, though, it ain't coming off, and that is why I did it instead of paint.

So here is the stuff!

Valve cover. The first part I did, and the worst. Some fisheyes, some areas of thick coating. Lesson learned: Spray the powder on the vertical so that it doesn't pool up. Also, I found that the coating is shiny if you cook it for about 10 minutes but becomes duller the more you do it. So you have to time everything good to get all the parts looking the same.
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Intake manifold. Second part done, this one took forever to clean.
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J-pipe.
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Motor mounts! These will look great back in the car.
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Even did the throttle body. The great thing about powdercoating is that you can spray it on liberally, and then simply wipe the powder off surfaces that you don't want a coating on, such as flanges.
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All the parts:
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The powder is polyethylene plastic, so cooking it in a home oven is a bad idea. I did anyway because I never use my oven for "cooking". I set up plenty of ventilation fans to route fumes out of the house.

There isn't much else to coat. My IC pipes once I am done making them, maybe suspension parts, although I think I will just use POR-15 for that stuff, for extra abrasion and corrosion protection.
 

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If you want the super shiny look, put a coat of clear over the top of your color. I don't use an oven, so I have to constantly adjust time depending on how hot the part becomes. The clear tends to yellow a bit if it gets too hot. I powdercoat everything I can get my hands on, though. It's wonderful stuff. If you have access to a bead blaster, it can get your parts clean quickly. With the right blast media, you don't need to do any more prep than simply rinsing off the dust and then blowing everything off with compressed air.
 
You'll want to bake out aluminum parts before spraying them, years of oil seeps into the parts and will come out under the paint when baking the coating resulting in fisheyes and other imperfections. 30-45 minutes at 400* usually does the trick. PC is great stuff, with the right powder, you can do exhaust pieces as well. Been pc'ing for over 3 years now for a living.
 
Thanks for the advice. I figured that lesson out after doing to valvecover. The other parts came out good. I might sandblast the valvecover again and get it looking better.
 
I love my harbor powedercoating kit.. The valvecover you did however is not going to last very long. You needed more prep work on it. Right below the letters it is showing bubbles in the powder.
 
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I think I am done for now. I still need to fabricate the charge pipes, though.
 

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Chicago Electric. And I am using matte black powder. The gloss powder you are using looks cool.
 
OP, looks like the oven in your photo is in your kitchen. I'm not sure I'd eat anything cooked in there after powdering in it. I have a friend who used to own a powdercoating business, and he stressed that the two do not mix.
 
Yeah if I remenber right its called mirror black from eastwood. Yeah I have heard the food taste really bad after you PC in it:barf:. I used to have a oven just for PC but then the wifes went out before I could even bake anything with it so I had to give it to her:cry: now Iam down to my little toaster oven.
 
Yes, it is my kitchen, as I explained in the first post. I don't bake.

In any case, the problem isn't residue but outgassing. The plastic (polyethylene) outgasses as it cures. This gas is an irritant. However, with adequate ventilation during and after baking, there is no reason you couldn't still cook as long as you gave it some time.
 
I just picked up a harbor freight pc kit. I was woundering what kind of prep do you need to do. Does it have to be all the way down the the bare metal? Anyone else have a parts cleaner btw. If so what solivent do you guys use?
 
Its best if you can get it down to bare metal it helps the PC stick to the surface it will always turn out nicer finish also. The order I do mine is sandblast, blow them out to clean the sand out, spray them with brake clean, blow dry them, pre bake the part, shoot it, then bake it, if Iam not in a rush I will let them cool down in the oven. Just remenber after I spray them with brake clean I will not touch the part till after it comes out of the oven the last time. If you guys really want some good advice and lots of tips join Powder Coating Questions - Plating Powder Coating Buffing Anodizing - Caswell Inc. Metal Finishing Forum tons of helpful hints and tips there are alot of people on there that have been doing this for years and make a living off of it as a matter of fact I know a certian vendor for this site is on there also:thumb:
 
Hey guys just came across this thread and wanted to show some of my projects that I did not to long ago. I did all these myself, with my own powder coating kit from Harbor Fraight.. All I did for prep is wallnut shells. I did alot of my car parts like this including my controle arms,gas tank tube cover,calipers and other miscelaniouse(spelling) parts. As you can see the valve cover is soo shiny it looks wett:cool: !! I also have a set of 5 Konig Villain rims that I did. They used to be silver and I redid them in the glossy black. Ill get pics later. So what do you guys think??
 

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Hey guys just came across this thread and wanted to show some of my projects that I did not to long ago. I did all these myself, with my own powder coating kit from Harbor Fraight.. All I did for prep is wallnut shells. I did alot of my car parts like this including my controle arms,gas tank tube cover,calipers and other miscelaniouse(spelling) parts. As you can see the valve cover is soo shiny it looks wett:cool: !! I also have a set of 5 Konig Villain rims that I did. They used to be silver and I redid them in the glossy black. Ill get pics later. So what do you guys think??

So you did not disassemble the calipers before powdercoating? How are you sure you didn't get anything under the boot? And how did you not damage the boots by putting the calipers in an oven (if they stayed assembled)?

How did you coat the control arms with the rubber boot on them (again, I would think the oven would cause a problem)?

Unless you didn't use an oven?
 
So you did not disassemble the calipers before powdercoating? How are you sure you didn't get anything under the boot? And how did you not damage the boots by putting the calipers in an oven (if they stayed assembled)?

How did you coat the control arms with the rubber boot on them (again, I would think the oven would cause a problem)?

Unless you didn't use an oven?

I completely disassembled the calipers, and then blasted and coated them. After they were done and ready to be assembled I purchased a rebuild kit and put them together. I used a high temp tape to seal off the piston cylinder. I am 100% positive no debris got into the calipers:thumb:... When I blasted them I plugged up the cylinder entrance with a plastic cap so I didnt ruin the cylinder walls. The controle arms were done the same way. I pressed out the worn old bushings and blasted and coated them as well, then installed my Energy suspension bushings with my 12 ton press(also from Hrbor Fraight)..I did use a oven, however the oven I used was from a restaurant, and is 4ft by 4ft. I set the temp to 475 and baked for 30 min, then recoted and did the same. The valve cover was a pain in the ass because its made of aluminum. When you bake aluminum to high temps, a sort of gas is released and formed buble spots in the coating. So I sanded down the bumbs and coated again untill it was smooth and glossy to my liking.
 
The top front "U" style controle arm was kinda tricky. I pulled the boot off and got as much of the grease out as I could that way when it heated up it wouldnt run onto the coating, then I taped the boot off with layers of the high temp tape. Then coated it 3X's. The lower controle arm was done the same way also. Those boots can handle alot of heat without damage. I know this ### I tried it. My problem now is trying to get the boot back in the groove,LOL.. Its a pain in the you know what?? And my pistons, I just spray painted those to keep from rusting..
 
I'd say it looks pretty good! I would not have done anything with the inside of the piston, nor am I a fan of the red rim on the oil cap (I like stock) or the spark plug cover (I don't run one). But the black with polished letters is what I have right now too!

What did you do to prevent media from getting in the valve cover baffles?
 
I covered the entire bottom side of the valve cover with the H temp tape and plugged the pcv valve threads with a bolt. I was thinking of starting a service on the side for this kinda thing. Im pretty good at it, and being that I am laid off I have all the time in the world. What I wanted to do with the calipers is weld TSi on the fron part that faces outside the rim and then coat them then do the brushed aluminum look to them? Like the valve cover is. Of course after I welded the letters in I would shape them with a file so that they are symetrical..
 
bpestilence for this being your first attempt you did a great job on the valve cover.
Just keep in mind, the final appearance will only be as good as your prep work.

Since we are showing off our powdercoating :thumb:

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___
Carlos Tirado
TiradoCustomCoatings.
 

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All the parts:
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Just curiosity sake, Why do you have a 1g intake manifold and a 2g thermostat housing? Did you port your 2g head to accept the 1g manifold or do you have one of the bastard child heads that takes a mix?

Oliver
[email protected]
 

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