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Survivors of crankwalk?

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stock1g4g63

20+ Year Contributor
1,193
1
Jan 2, 2003
(was TX) Anaheim, CA, California
Hey guys, I think I might be getting symptoms of crankwalk. I know the most reasonable solution is either a 6bolt or 2.4L swap, however, I simply don't have the money for that right now. Has anyone done anything that has bought them some time (4+ months) or actually eliminated the problem for an extended period. I know there's no solution to crankwalk as of yet, but I more or less need a delay in order to save up enough for a 6bolt swap. I changed out the thrust bearings already, and that seems to have given me some time. Any other suggestions?
 
disable the clutch switch is one thing that can help, especially when its winter time..
 
Ok, sorry for my stupidity, but what is a clutch switch and how do I disable it? Will it effect my ability to drive at all? I've never heard of a clutch "switch" before...
 
clutch switch allows you to start the car w/o having the clutch pressed to the floor..
 
Originally posted by stock1g4g63
Well I changed mine out too (unless thrust bearings and crank bearings are two different things). Also, I saw this on another thread, thought i'd try it out: http://machv.com/conracmbcadk.html

We're talking about the same thing. Anybody ever used those caps on machv? I read the description and still don't understand it.
 
Hey, anyone know where I can get some crank bearings for a good deal (besides satan). My mechanic ordered them for me when I lived in Houston and I never asked him where he got them, but I just moved to Orange County and would like to order them.
 
^^^um, you want those to be oem. go to partznet.com for them.

I caught my walk early and replaced all the crank bearings. It's been two years and about 40k with no signs

explain to me these early signs. ive never heard of anyone catching crankwalk and then fixing it only for it never to come back again.
 

The stock main caps are connected I believe with a brace of some sort. I'm sure billet steel is more rigid than cast iron ( ? ) main caps, but I can't say. And for 400$, I could get my entire block cryogenically treated along with the crank, rods, and pistons. That would net more structural rigidity than billet main caps alone would do.

:talon: :laser: :dsm:
 
www.rothbuilt.com/speeddesign

They have to have the block, but they have a pretty good cure, they do machine parts of the block for all new stuff and some different parts, but Jeff is about the most knowledgeable DSM guy I've ever met

Caleb
 
Originally posted by dsmturboawd
^^^um, you want those to be oem. go to partznet.com for them.



explain to me these early signs. ive never heard of anyone catching crankwalk and then fixing it only for it never to come back again.

I'm a salesperson for Satan (formerly Mitsu, now Hyundai), so I thought my throw out bearing was going bad. It was a faint tapping sound. One of the techs listened to it and said it probably was the throw out bearing going. So I replaced the clutch. Guess what, still had the sound. After further inspection, we found the beginnings of crankwalk. The crank (or block) wasn't really damaged, so we decided to replace the bearings and see how it held up. I think I'm lucky, but it's held!:thumb:
 
interesting. i wish i knew more about cw so i could inqure more, but i never bothered to read about it.

the way its working in my head is that if the crank or the block have anything to do with it, than you never suffered from cw. it just keeps getting progressively worse; whether you have old bearings, new oem bearings, new aftermarket bearings, bearings god himself made, etc. basically once a block sees it its trash and not fixable [99% of 7 bolt blocks fixed that have had any signs of walking have had it come back quickly]. *shrugs* like i said, im not guru on cw.

all i know is you're 1 in thousands upon thousands if your claims are up to par.
 
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