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is this a good recipe for mid 12's?

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brian524

15+ Year Contributor
102
0
Jun 22, 2003
Olathe, Kansas
INTAKE TRACT

K&N FILTERCHARGER KIT (AkA FIPK)
DEJON TOOL 3" INTAKE PIPE

TURBO

PORTERA MOTORSPORTS ETE32 TURBO (MUTT TURBO)
TURBO INSTALL KIT

EXHAUST

PORTED EVO 3 MANIFOLD
PORTED EVO 3 O2 HOUSING
APEXI N1 DOWNPIPE
SLOWBOYRACING 3" TESTPIPE
APEXI N1 3" CATBACK

INTERCOOLER TRACT

VICTORY FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER KIT
GREDDY TYPE S BLOW OFF VAVLE

BOOST CONTROL

GREDDY PROFEC E

FUEL

WALBRO 255LPH FUEL PUMP
SLOWBOYRACING 750CC INJECTORS
AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
APEXI SAFCII FUEL CONTROLLER

DRIVETRAIN

ACT 2600 CLUTCH KIT AND ACT FLYWHEEL

ENGINE MONITORING

AUTOMETER BOOST GUAGE
AUTOMETER EGT GUAGE
AUTOMETER OIL PRESSURE GUAGE
2G SINGLE GUAGE POD
2G CLUSTER DUAL GUAGE POD

ECU TUNING

MITSUBISHI MOTORSPORTS TMO CHIP

EXTRA HORSEPOWER

INTERCOOLER TEQNIQUES C02 SPRAYER



I know the boost controller's overkill, but i dont want to mess with another manual boost controller, plus a little extra bling in my interior doesnt hurt :D

Whats your guys experience with these parts? Or, what would you guys do differently or use instead of what i listed?

Thanks for the feedback

~Brian~
 
I don't know much about the Profec E, but a Profec B spec II it's proven to work great and it's very easy to use plus 2 boost setups, also another thing I will Add/Change to your list is a 3" GM MAFT to go with your intake now if you do this you don't have to get the K&N FIKP... avoid fuel cut alot, and allow way much air in with everything upgraded.

Other than that and if you spend some good time in tuning I believe you'll be able to hit low 11's... oh yeah you gotta work a little on your car suspension too with some stiffer springs/shocks set if you haven't...
 
mid 12's LOL try low 11's for sure with a crappy driver :p
Add injectors (maybe some 650's) and a gm maf with maf-t.
AEM EMS if you can afford that... seems like alot of people like it alot.

haha what kind of job do you have? i want it to afford all those parts, shoot! making 10 bucks an hour calling 300 ppl a day at their business place to invite them to seminars!!! LOL
 
Originally posted by 1fast97gsx
he has injectors listed...

In short yes you will run mid 12s. Most likely in the 11s.


My bad you are right injectors were listen!

You need a Helmet and 4 point cage to run 11's at track So add those in their i guess
 
recipe modding is so lousy, but you asked. so heres how you get 12's:

550's
safc
190 pump

16g
supra smic
modify the upic with a radiator hose.
1g cbv

homedepot mbc. (whats with you dual stage and ebc people?)

make your own turbo back exhaust for 200 dollars.
boost gauge.
pocketlogger.

THATS IT.

intercooler techinques is done. make your own sprayer at homedepot as they used to do.
 
On the Exhaust, the Apexi N1 downpipe bolts right to the N1 catback (with the neck-down adapter removed), no need for a test pipe. Also the EVO 3 O2 housing has a slightly larger bolt pattern and than the stock one and may have some difficulty bolting to the N1 downpipe.
And you might want to get a 2 or 3 guage pod and throw in a fuel-pressure gauge (and A/F if you like the looks of it, though it's only slightly useful).
For the cost of the Profec E plus the AFC and TMO chip you could probably get DSMLink and a high quality MBC and have some left over. Might not look as cool, but that doesn't matter so much if all they see is your tail lights anyway
;) Matter of opinion though.
(of course anyone is welcome to correct me if I'm wrong)
 
intercooler techinques is done. make your own sprayer at homedepot as they used to do.

Thats my freind chris who use to make them. He has a bunch of old parts laying around his garage. Im sure hed toss me a kit for pretty cheap.
 
sounds like you got it all planned. Let's however not forget the two most important ingredients-fine tuning, and driving.

Good luck in any event.
 
Wow the benchracing in this thread made my head spin.
A properly supported 16G or 14B on race gas can go (and many have gone) mid 12's. Why all the "bling-bling" parts list nonsense?

Here's my mid 12 second recipe.

Race gas, b16G, 550's, AFC, 190 lph Walbro fuel pump (or bigger), any OK FMIC, MBC, EGT, A/f and Boost gauges, (Greddy, Griffin...does not have to be the largest or "baddest"), 1g BOV, K&N filter, a decent downpipe and exhaust and a decent clutch (ACT 2600).

That's it. Except like it was mentioned before, you gotta know how to drive, and learn how to tune. Plenty of Supra guys with 800+ HP and 14 sec. timeslips out there will tell you the same.

Did I mention I HATE benchracing?
 
hmmm...the car is a 95 GSX man. You know, back in the day, before DSMLink, wideband 02 sensors and AFC's and EGT's, people used them to tune/monitor if the car was lean. And I hardly think an Autometer A pillar gauge counts as "bling".

My 18" wheels, now that's another story. Still ran 12.8 on them though...;)
 
Originally posted by brian524
INTAKE TRACT

K&N FILTERCHARGER KIT (AkA FIPK)
DEJON TOOL 3" INTAKE PIPE

K&N, Green Filter or Apexi 3" clamp on filter... A long one.

Dejon 3" intake for VPC or blow thru.

Originally posted by brian524

TURBO

PORTERA MOTORSPORTS ETE32 TURBO (MUTT TURBO)
TURBO INSTALL KIT


PTE, AGP or FP with install kit Like an RS49 etc.

Originally posted by brian524


EXHAUST

PORTED EVO 3 MANIFOLD
PORTED EVO 3 O2 HOUSING
APEXI N1 DOWNPIPE
SLOWBOYRACING 3" TESTPIPE
APEXI N1 3" CATBACK

Or ported 2g. Get a die grinder and rotory file.

Spend money saved on

Tubular O2 housing and megan ss downpipe or O2 eliminator downpipe.

Buy a section of 3" ss pipe and two ss band clamps. Instead of the test pipe.

Bosal exhaust... best buy in stainless.






Originally posted by brian524

INTERCOOLER TRACT

VICTORY FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER KIT
GREDDY TYPE S BLOW OFF VAVLE

BOOST CONTROL

GREDDY PROFEC E

Ok so far but an MBC is ok too.

Originally posted by brian524

FUEL

WALBRO 255LPH FUEL PUMP
SLOWBOYRACING 750CC INJECTORS
AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
APEXI SAFCII FUEL CONTROLLER

If you are running and adj FPR get the 255 high pressure.. or a supra pump it's quieter.

Use the next generation MAFT and GM MAF and ditch the SAFC. Or the old MAFT and DSM LINK

Run a dash bezel pod... When you have datalogging you can get away with fewer gauges. Spend it on the best tuning tool instead. A WB o2 sensor. These days I say it should be a mod closely following a boost gauge.

Now with the supra pump, adj FPR those injectors and link you laid the ground work for more than 12's. W/O a wideband you may not get to even 12's so easy. I'd do that before stuff like a FMIC cryo kit.
 
What the helll is a Wide Band 02 sensor? Ive heard all my tuner freinds talking about those latly.
 
wideban is a far more presice O2 sensor which rads up to 5v normaly, a regular one one reads up tp 1v. You guys need to reasearch it, the ifo is all over and Im to lazy to give u a write up
 
Basically most factory oxygen sensors are narrow band.. Meaning they can only accurately read oxygen levels when an engine is close to stoichemetric air fuel ratio. They can read leaner than stoich better than richer than stoich.

Simply put at idle and cruise the narrow band sensor can tell you if your airfuel ratio is good with some degree of accuracy. Without wideband you are pretty much blind as to your air fuel ratio. You can tune by knock counts, EGT and amount of timing pulled but a wideband oxygen sensor is the holy grail of tuning tools.

It is best used with a standalone ECU. You can also get a gauge type in either an FJO or soon AEM. They do have a 0-1 volt output that is the wideband reading inverted and scaled to match a narrow bands range. So it does'nt require a second o2 bung (threaded hole). That 0-1v signal still is more accurate. However with a stand alone you can use the full 0-5v range of the wideband and datalog it even more accurately. You can also use closed loop wideband feedback at for things other than idle and cruise. It can't tune automatically almost but not quite, you have to get in the ball park with your timing and fuel maps, it can tweak the fuel delivery a little bit to get it dead on. You set a target A/F ratio for that RPM and it trims your fuel delivery to match. One of the best places would be the electronics forums at AEM to learn how to get the most out of one.

You can do amazing things with wideband and a standalone. A beginner will make more power with a EVO 16g, 550's, Wideband o2 and a standalone than they would going bigger with everything and not having a wideband o2 and standalone. They are a potent duo.
 
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