So you want a built motor aye?

[anomalyinva]

This post is to try and cut out some of those "what do I need to run x hp", though I doubt it will work. As well, it will deal strictly with 6-bolt motors as I really have no specific knowledge of 7-bolt motors. People have run deep in to the 10's on the stock long block (bottom end/head), are you going to go faster than that?

First off, what are your goals?
300whp - You do NOT need anything for this really as far as the motor goes. I would suggest going with the following though:
New OEM Mitsu Headgasket, new timing belt/tensioner, balance shaft eliminator, and ARP Head Studs

400whp - You don't NEED a built motor for this, though this is the range where I think it would be wise. I suggest the following:
EITHER Ross 8.5:1 pistons on 1g big rods, OR Ross 8.5:1 pistons on Eagle H-Beam rods. As far as head work a simple port and polish, and a 3 angle valve job will probibly help a bit

450whp - If you're running this any kind of consistently on the stock motor and not blowing it up, please come tune my car. Refer above for work

500whp - I seriously doubt you are reading this post if you are capable of building a 500whp 6-bolt. For the sake of the post though, I would go 1mm oversized SS valves, a fairly agressive port n polish, Cometic HG or Mitsu MLRS, and fully balanced and weight matched internals.

This is by no means to an end. This is just what I would do if I was building a 2.0 6-bolt motor. There are a LOT of issues that aren't discussed here. What are you using to tune? What is your fuel system like? Why in gods name do you think a 3 bolt will hold 450whp? ETC. This is just ment to be a starting place for those semi-new to DSM's.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by anomalyinva
This post is to try and cut out some of those "what do I need to run x hp", though I doubt it will work. As well, it will deal strictly with 6-bolt motors as I really have no specific knowledge of 7-bolt motors. People have run deep in to the 10's on the stock long block (bottom end/head), are you going to go faster than that?

First off, what are your goals?
300whp - You do NOT need anything for this really as far as the motor goes. I would suggest going with the following though:
New OEM Mitsu Headgasket, new timing belt/tensioner, balance shaft eliminator, and ARP Head Studs

400whp - You don't NEED a built motor for this, though this is the range where I think it would be wise. I suggest the following:
EITHER Ross 8.5:1 pistons on 1g big rods, OR Ross 8.5:1 pistons on Eagle H-Beam rods. As far as head work a simple port and polish, and a 3 angle valve job will probibly help a bit

450whp - If you're running this any kind of consistently on the stock motor and not blowing it up, please come tune my car. Refer above for work

500whp - I seriously doubt you are reading this post if you are capable of building a 500whp 6-bolt. For the sake of the post though, I would go 1mm oversized SS valves, a fairly agressive port n polish, Cometic HG or Mitsu MLRS, and fully balanced and weight matched internals.

This is by no means to an end. This is just what I would do if I was building a 2.0 6-bolt motor. There are a LOT of issues that aren't discussed here. What are you using to tune? What is your fuel system like? Why in gods name do you think a 3 bolt will hold 450whp? ETC. This is just ment to be a starting place for those semi-new to DSM's.

If you need a motor installed on your Gvr4 I have a shop that can do it for around 500-600 bucks. He runs a rally car team and his son drives a 1st gen rally car. He installed my motor built my sparco seat bracket and some other random stuff. Real good guy. shoot me a PM ill give you the details.

 

[anomalyinva]

Thats cool, I finally tracked down my old mechanic and he is doing that and a bunch of other stuff.

 

[NosLaser]

What he said was pretty correct as far as the proper internals for a given HP level. You can take a 6 bolt big rod motor farther (I personally made close to 500 flywheel HP on a stock bottom end) however at that point, your tuning doesn't leave much room for error. I also like the Ross pistons better than the other offerings out there. They seem to be coming down in price as well, so a Ross/Eagle combo is a relatively inexpensive insurance policy, and with proper tuning, you'll never have to upgrade again. On the 7 bolt motors, tuning is even more important. Friends and I have personally made over 400 wheel HP on a stock 2G 7 bolt bottom end with over 100K miles on it, but the tuning was as close to perfect as you can come. Those small rods leave just about no margin for error especially when it comes to detonation, and quick rises in cylinder pressure. The key to making a 7 bolt live is timing. Don't run too much timing advance especially if your tune dictates a rapid rise in cylinder pressure. What will happen is if your timing is too far advanced, the pressure created during the combustion stroke will be fighting against the leverage caused by the crankshaft trying to push the piston up the bore while cylinder pressure is trying to force it down. With small rods, the rod will tend to take the path of least resistence, which is often times out the side of the block. Tuning is everything!!! You can make big power with simple combinations if you know what you are doing.

Regards,