$2500 and you want to hit 12's

[OneFastEclipse]

Alrighty, you have 2500 dollars and a auto GSX, what would you do to hit your 12 sec goal?

 

[OneBlackTalon]

buy my big 16g, 500
get a full exhaust 500
intake 100
mbc ~ 50
550cc injectors ~ 200
Safc ~ 200
fuel pump ~ 100
and guages and other little things I'm missing out on. This wouldn't guarantee the 12's but it'd be a damn good start. Tuning and driving will also play their part.
mike

 

[YellowEclipse]

you forgot an FMIC with IC piping...maybe do a little weight reduction if you don't mind...

 

[SpoOLxExO]

Trans:
Your best 12 sec auto bet, is to just bite the bullet and get your trans rebuilt w/ a shift-kit from Translab.This will make the shifts firm, and positive.

The second thing you need to do is to get a aftermarket torque converter with a slightly higher than stock stall speed. This will enable you to "Launch" the car as if it were a 5-speed by raising the stall point of when the converter locks up.


Exaust:
A 16g can be a good idea, but if You want my opinion, and if you want 12's for the cheapest way out then a ported 2g exaust manifold, ported 14b (Stock manual tranmission turbo) Next to a 3" turbo-back will be sufficient for your 12 sec goal


Intake/Free mods:
"Free" mods I'm talking about.either free or cheap. mostly involving removing the EGR valve and replacing it w/ a block-off. The MAF hack is next as well. (Vfaq.com) or if you want a IN depth look at free mods
www.racingknowledge.org under DSM. Kyle Terry does a fantastic job at pointing out the free mods.

Boost/Fuel:
A walbro 190 if your car has a lot of miles on the stock fuel pump. other wise just a 8-10 ga rewire from the battery to the fuel pump will help alot.
A MBC will be used in conjunction with your boost guage. (You do have one...right!?)

ECU:
Either a TMO chip and a Pocketlogger, or a safc and a pocketlogger will allow you to raise the boost nessisary for a 12 second pass. this involves, after all the other mods I mentioned, race gas of 110 octane or better, and 20-22 psi. A logger will show you if your engine is fit for that type of boost.

After all these mods are done, its simply a matter of torque-braking at the line and making sure your air fuel ratio, and timing advance and EGT's are acceptable.

I think people usually skip owning an auto because upgrade arent as prevelant as the tried and tested 5-speed recipes for 10 years now. But its entirely possible, I encourage you to go out and get that 12 sec auto AWD slip!

 

[ivanr4g63]

a Fuel pressure regulator too, to work with you injectors and AFC, and if possible get a ported evo III exhaust manifold. if you get a turbo back with cat, try getting a test pipe too, at least for racing days...!

-Don't forget to have your transsmission serviced with a synthetic fluid change, it's better if a reputable shop does this, cause your gonna need all the juice you can get outta your tranny, so don't leave her hanging till' the end.

-Edit: SpoOLxExO has better info on what to do with your tranny...

 

[gixrman]

I would go with 660's or 680's just incase you want to upgrade to a 20g or bigger. Do you plan on driving this everyday?

 

[Gooberlog]

Well it took me a little over $3000 to get my 1G awd 5speed to run 12's. But $1700 of that included the price of the car, tax, tags etc. The other money was spent on 2100clutch kit, 2g ex. mani, 7cm turbine housing, ported extreme o2 housing, 2.5" turboback w/ racepice, 255 fuel pump, 4 new michelin tires, K&N, and weight mods. I'm not sure about an auto, but for my 5speed that was my recipe for 12s for $1300.
PS some of the parts were used and some were freebies. I also replaced my timing belt, balancer belt, waterpump, valve seals etc.

 

[SpoOLxExO]

See? This is an instance first hand that an AWD 1g 5-speed can hit 12's with just K&N, Exaust/porting, fuel and boost.

And depending whos doing the work, for how much and however much you can source the parts for, $800-1400 is about how much it costs to get a 1g into the 12's.

The only differences between a 5-speed and an auto with the exact same mods are:

Auto trans: (Obviously) Autos tend to slug it up on the launch, causing 2.2-2.6 60' times So the remedy is either swap for 5-speed and ACT2600 clutch (Not an option in this instance, just using reference) OR install an aftermarket torque converter, and shift kit.

Cams: Auto cars have slightly less profile in order to get the most amount of response from an automatic, AWD, Turbo setup. (Quick boost)
Manual transmission cams do help, as they have a more aggressive profile.

Exaust manifold/Turbo/Injectors: This is the biggest hitch in the get-along. But upgrading these components first isnt the best way to do this, you need a tranny that will stall higher and shift hard. Depending on which stall converter speed you choose for your car, that will give you a good indication as to which turbo you can use, and have boost at the line. (Which in turn creates the Launch to be more 5-speedish and dropping your 60 foot dramatically!)

If you decide to get a Mild upgrade stall of say 2500-2800; then a 14b, 16g, or even 20g if setup correctly will scratch all 4 tires off the line when your powerbrake and let off!

But heres my list of parts needed to get this done:
-Shiftkit
-Converter with up to 2800stall (anything higher stall will decrease the "Streetability" of the car)
-Td05 series turbo, ported. (14b, small/big/EVO 16g, maybe 20g)
-Ported 2nd gen exaust manifold
-550 injectors, or even stock M/T injectors if you only making occational 12 sec blasts on race gas.
-Upgraded pump (For the loot, the walbro 190 can't be beat. Everyone will tell you to get the 255HP LPH. That will only work with an aftermarket Adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the 190 has been known to be less likely to overrun the Stock FPR
-Guages, Manual boost controller
-Make/buy a 2.5" or 3" turbo back exaust. With some mandrel bends from RoadRaceEngineering and a $75 ebay 3" "N-1" muffler, you can do this yourself for $275
-EPROM ECU with the TMOIII chip. Obviously the studderlaunch feature wont be useful in this instance, but it ability to remove fuel cut from the ECU entirely is worth it alone IMHO. This way, even with the stock MAF, the boost can be raised to 20psi, w/o worry of fuel cut, when you start to make some good power. (Biggest DSM buzzkill if you ask me)
-Last, but prolly the most important is the Datalogger. Pocketlogger is the least expensive, then TMO logger and so on. Don't let some shlep convince you that a Walbro 255, AFC, and a 16g alone will get you where you want to go. You need to tune the car correctly to recieve the appropreit boost level that warrents a 12 second pass.

Of course this is on a healthy 4G, with a tuneup and timingbelt done recently.

Good luck if your really serious about this project, I'd like to see the results myself!

 

[OneFastEclipse]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I am putting the investment down in January so yes I am very serious about this. Right now the only thing done to the car is a Boost guage, and transmission cooler. Can't wait to get to upgrading. When I start increasing the boost on the new turbo how do I know when I have reached my limit? Is it the egt guage? Also does running higher octaine fuel increase the amount of boost you can run on your injectors? Thanks again!

 

[dsmturboawd]

14b - 75

m/t injectors - 25

supra sidemount - 100

misc ic piping - 30

mbc - 5

boost gauge - 20

exhaust - 200

ported stuff - free

intake cone - 10

fuel pump - 90

could even go cheaper if you wanted. thats all thats really needed. pocketlogger and some other stuff would be nice, but isnt a must have.

 

[SpoOLxExO]

The info I listed is a guaranteed method for achieving 12 second quarter mile timeslips, in a 1G AWD Auto. The most work lies inside the transmission, and torque converter.

If you concentrate your investment into this area first, the outcome of your future mods will be optimized.

The other question was, how much boost can your run with the "New" turbo. That depends on:

-Which turbo you are actually running
-What your fuel system comprises of (Fuel pump, injectors,AFPR)
-What your intercooling system includes (Front mount? stock?)

The bigger the injectors, the more boost you are able to theoretically run on a "X" turbo with ALL the supporting mods. (FMIC, Fuel mods,etc)

For example a 20g equipped car with a FMIC, a walbro 255 pump, regulator, and 550cc injectors can usually run 20-22 psi on the street when also coupled with a fuel controller of some sort. When you swap out the 550s for say, the next level up to 660s, your street boost level on 93 octane will be able to go up to around 22-25psi. This is due to the larger injector body's phyical ability to release more fuel, even under stock injector pulse rate. read more about fuel systems, injectors, and boost levels at www.Roadraceengineering.com in the eclipse index under Tips and tricks.

Good luck!

 

[wishihadatalon]

how can you say a 2.2-2.6 60 foot time. i hit 2.0 on a stock auto talon. brake tourqing(sp* im tired) can be good. but i have seen people get so fast that the auto wouldn't let them build the boost that they needed off the launch.

 

[red1993gsallmt]

Buy a 1g, strip interer, run a dump tump, make a $6 boost contoller, 22psi, 116 racefuel, a good clutch, i bet you will do a mid 12

 

[jake98gst]

SpoOLxExO... You are a man who knows his sh!t. I respect that. All your advice I would agree with 100%. But some instructions were given according to the differences between an M/T 4g63 and an A/T one. There are major differences between a 1g M/T and a 1g A/T. But this guy's a 2g and I don't think there are any differences between 2G A/Ts and 2G M/Ts. Are there?

Jake

 

[OneBlackTalon]

I was always under the impression that 2g autos were the same as 2g m/ts.

 

[dsmturboawd]

they're the same besides the obvious.

red1993gsallmt - i believe youre misinformed.