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My blowthrough pics.

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Omega

20+ Year Contributor
1,558
10
Oct 10, 2002
Randolph, New Jersey
Just wanted to share. I tune with an AFC so I just left all the setting on the MAFT at zero. It started up no problems and havn't touched a thing.


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Thanks.

I made it. It was simple to make, but I made it a pain because I bought a 3.5" MAF by mistake (try finding a smooth transition reducer cone for 2.5" to 3.5" under 6" in length!) . All you need is a j-bend, 2- 2.5 to 3" reducer cone and shorten the stock TB elbow.. plus couplings.

The welds aren't pretty, but when it cost me $35 for just 2 by a pro, I decided the looks didn't matter all THAT much.
 
Sweet, a thread about this, now I get to show mine off too :) :
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Where did you buy those transition cones from? Looks very nice by the way.

^^^
Yeah, I wanna know too. Did you make them?
 
I don't know if it's just me but those things look hidious. Just how unsightly they are is enough to make me not buy it or look for alternatives.

I know it's about speed etc blah blah, but damn they ugly boy...
 
I think it looks quite clean. I prefer my setup over the dejon version (no offense STARION)

The cones I used are "exotic" according to where I bought them. They have 1 more set laying around and after that you are SOL. I got them from www.drgas.com Talk to Douglas, he is the man. They can make 2.5" to 3" cones for about $9 a pop. If you call them about the 3.5" version, tell him Tim with the Talon told you about them.. he will know what you are looking for. BTW they specialize in exhaust parts for NASCAR.. they make some sick oval bends and "mufflers" there.
 
I used 3.5 to 3.0 reducer coupling and also from Home Depot used a sewer reducer coupling 2.5-2.0. I slipped the HD coupling over the 2.5 ICP and the TB elbow. Cut off the other half of the HD coupling. Then I slipped the 3.0 side of the reducer coupling from the MAF T side over the HD coupling which in on the ICP. I used T-bolt clamps. I've pressure tested to 30psi and no leaks.
 
Originally posted by DSMJim
I don't know if it's just me but those things look hidious. Just how unsightly they are is enough to make me not buy it or look for alternatives.

I know it's about speed etc blah blah, but damn they ugly boy...

And if speed were a beauty contest..... ;)
 
How much of a differnce in performance did you notice switching to this setup?
 
I have noticed a huge difference in spoolup time. It is more willing to spool in general now. I get 2-3 psi more under the same load than before.
 
Looks real clean, probably the cleanest setup with the MAFT i've seen so far :thumb: If only there was a way to put on the GM MAF without requiring the translator---since I don't plan on using it to tune either and it would hella cheaper as well :(
 
Thanks Hyper... that is what I was going for.

The MAFT is just a very basic AFC. Cams or not it is a tuning tool.
 
That is a pretty good guess!

The top battery terminal has 4ga and 8ga connections. The 4ga loops around to the fuse box which then converts to 8ga for the amps. I had to do that because the fuse box only had 4ga inputs. The other terminal on the voltmeter ties into my FP rewire and other goodies I have added. The side post on the battery is used for the stock wiring harness.

FYI ever since it got really cold here, the voltmeter terminal crapped out. So much for Stinger quality :mad:

I would like to put the MAFT on the battery, but all I can find at the moment is crap 3M double sided tape. I have to goto a hobby shop and pick up some tape used to hold down speed controlles and recievers.
 
Originally posted by Omega
That is a pretty good guess!

I have to goto a hobby shop and pick up some tape used to hold down speed controlles and recievers.

yup bolink is the shit;)
 
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