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Mutt Turbo's?

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worldgyman11

Probationary Member
27
0
Apr 2, 2002
hey everyone, i have recently purchased an ete 52 turbo, and man is it HUGE! i didnt think that it was going to be that big at all, but man was i wrong....anywho.....i have read up a lot about these turbos, and that is why is chose them, but i was wondering if any of you are running the mutt's.....i would just like to know which turbo everyone is running here....also, for those of you who are using a mutt, could you tell me what you are running in the 1/4 or 1/8..whatever track you have ...thanks everyone..i will have pics as soon as i get everything at my house.....later
 
I running what is now known as the ETA22. Now 1/4 mile time yet. just got new clutch installed.

Later,
 
thanks for the fast relpy....how is the spool up on yours?..i know mine is going to be slower, but that is the price you pay for a bigger turbo..
 
3500rpm's for 20psi but I just installed the new clutch and did not tune after getting a 3 inch cat-back so I'm hoping to drop it down at least another couple hundred RPM's.

Later,
 
what do you think the spool up on mine would be? i havent read that much about the spool, except for the fact that it is some what laggy...but, this will be a wicked daily driver....
 
I would say 4500-4700rpms for full boost, if your lucky. With standalone engine management you could probably got it to 4500rpm's maybe even less if your a wicked tuner.

Later,
 
I know a guy on a 1G (big rods, 95' pistons) that was getting 9 psi at 3500-3700 rpms and he said it was CRAZY!! that would be more than enough pull on a daily driver.
 
Originally posted by IPT
I know a guy on a 1G (big rods, 95' pistons) that was getting 9 psi at 3500-3700 rpms and he said it was CRAZY!! that would be more than enough pull on a daily driver.


With a ETE52? Maybe only 9psi, but with a turbo that big who hell would only run 9psi!!! :D

Later,
 
ETA32 here, it's still together and hasn't blown up yet, like some have. This turbo kicks ass IMHO, but the track just opened and we will soon see what it is truly made of.
 
The guy was only running 9 psi to get it tuned in. Lets just say that the 60-1 compressor wheel moves LOTS of air at even 9psi. At 20-25 psi look out!!!!! :D
 
Originally posted by Deadly DSM
ETA32 here, it's still together and hasn't blown up yet, like some have. This turbo kicks ass IMHO, but the track just opened and we will soon see what it is truly made of.

I agree. As soon as clutch is broken in need more tuning. Btw Screw your 1G big rods and 25 psi on pump gas!! ;)

Later,
 
I have a ETE32 sitting on my kitchen table right now. I can't wait to get it installed, but it will have to wait a little while yet. I am excited though! That thing is so big--hopefully not too big. I still have some fuel issues to work out and a FMIC to shoehorn in there and then, then she will be ready! OOhhhaaaa....Oooohhhhaaaaa!!! (insert evil laugh)

Matt

Hey wait! I have a digital camera now! Here are some pics.:D That is a matchbook in the intake.
 

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I love seeing the port work they do on the turbine housings...
 
2-0turbo

let me know how the install goes IM anxious to see how other 1g owners get around the E housing and lower water pipe issues during installation.
 
Yeah, I didn't even know it was much of an issue until I saw your install (I think it was yours, with the spacer?). DSM Performance says you have to dent the water pipe to clear the compressor. That is not too big of a deal, but I heard some people say it just won't fit, period. I have access to metal fabrication equipment, so if I need to, I'll just modify that waterpipe and get it out of the way--if it is really going to be a problem. I'll let you know. It is going to be maybe 2 months before I get this thing on, though. Maybe sooner, but I have a lot of irons in the fire right now and several mods to do to my car before it is really ready for that big of a turbo.

Matt
 
DSM Performance says you have to dent the water pipe to clear the compressor.

Yeah that's for the *eta* housing not the ETE which you and I both have. You cannot beat the lower water pipe neck that supplies coolant to the turbo on a first gen. I would strongly recommend a manifold spacer plate and longer manifold studs, slim fans and a indy race core;) with the installation of this turbo.
 
http://www.dsm-performance.com/catalog/mf_installation.php

According to this page, the TA housing requires "very little" denting to fit and the TO4B and E housings "will require" a dent in the big water pipe to fit. If the part that extends down to the ground (where the return plumbs into) is in the way, I'll just move it. I'll figure it out once I start the install.

Matt
 
I have the TA housing and required very little denting during the install. The E housing will need more denting, but so is a 20G and bigger turbos. The way to get around beating is using a spacer plate (found in Hahn's kit). However, a spacer means more chance for leaks.
Get a slim fan also, the wastegate actuator may be in the way w/ the E housing. With the TA housing, I managed to get away with the stock one without even hacking.
 
2-0turbo

LOL some people just have to learn things the hard way. have a look at the install PICS i took even with the spacer plate that's close to 3/4" thick.
the housing still touches the *lower coolant neck* but if you think you are going to dent that lower coolant neck without cracking the welds in it be my guest. i would much rather have a possible (but not likely) exhaust leak than a shattered weld on a water pipe dump all the coolant and burn the motor up but to each his own. you may also have to rotate the comp housing to clear the front motor mount because of the elbow that they welded on the end of the comp housing to mate the stock I/C piping.
 
ETA32 here, full boost 20psi by 3600-3800 on stock 02 housing at the moment. When my car decides to quit's breaking I will get some track times...:mad: If that day ever comes...:confused:

Derek
 
ETA housing looks like a 14b/16g setup. You will need a j-pipe. Talk to Pete and he can get you what you want.
 
The ETA housing CAN look like the 14b/16g setup. You can also get it to look like the t-25 outlet location. They weld the elbow on if you request it. Free of charge. They told me that they recommend having the elbow welded on compared to using a silicone elbow because of the heat that does come from the outlet. The elbow should have better flow over the silicone.
 
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