The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Slow Acceleration rough idle

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Way2real316

20+ Year Contributor
73
0
Nov 29, 2002
Marietta, Georgia
Today I was fixing a boost leak one of my Intercooler pipes came loose, I yank out all of my piping put new couplings on them and new nipples for the lines I have plugged off. I put the battery back in pop pop damn blew out the alternator fuse. Throw another one in pop pop same thing. Take a look around I had the battery switched around positive to negative anyways I fix it throw fuse in car starts up. Idles all jacked engines chocking like its not getting air Or fuel. I adjust the idle using the screw on the top of the throttle body its sounding better hop in for a drive and the car accelerates real slow wont rev past 2 grand and im flooring it. It doesn’t buck it just accels real slow. I checked the rest of the engine fuses and don’t see any burned out. My friend says I might have fried the ecu. No codes are being displayed. I’m clueless anybody know what I might have done?
 
Some more info to add. if i run the air or the heat the engine shakes bad and the vacum jumps to 10 from 15
 
Sounds like u blew ur IC pipes off check that ive had a problem recently with my FMIC so check ur pipes man might be them. :dsm:
 
I know its not one of the intercooler pipes already checked that. I’m starting to think it’s my computer. My spark plugs are still pretty new I pulled on of the wires off while the engine was running. No change in the engine it was weird. I also had the alternator checked it was good on the test but im not completely sold. The good news is my car is finally showing a check engine light. I’m going to have it scanned in the morning ill let you guys no what it says. Can anybody tell me some signs of a fried ecu??
 
Originally posted by purplehazetsi
i dont think your ecu would do that, if your ecu is going it would start to cut out at high RPMs.

Yea im leaning on the alternator I went to start her up. See if anything changed. Still the same thing I let her warm up went to turn on my lights the engine started shaking. And the vacuum changed. Anytime I turn on an accessory radio air lights the engine shakes. I know the alternator runs all of the accessories maybe I fired it. Like I said before I had to mess with the throttle idle screw just to keep her from cutting off. Any other ideas?
 
Since you turned on the car with the polarity on the battery backwards, there are probably all sorts of electronics fried everywhere. There are some electrical circuit components that don't like being reverse biased (some types of diodes and capacitors) and this can cause severe damage to many different types of devices in a car. Your computer might be fried. Some sensors might be fried. If I were you I would check ALL or at least many sensors in the car to see if they are still working correctly.
 
Well the check engine light finally came on today it said misfire in cylinder 3 I’m about to pull the spark plug and look it over. I just went and bought anther repair Manuel for the car im going to check over the electronics. I hope it’s just the spark plug. Also can anybody tell me what it needs to be gaped at? And do I really need a torque wrench?
 
Not really.

The spark plugs give you two options. You can either torque it or handtighten and turn another 270 degrees or something like that (it says on the box).
 
Ok here we go. I gpt a scan done twice at 2 different AutoZone’s the code read misfire in cylinder 3. Cylinder 1, 4 where good 2&3 where covered in black. Changed out the plugs and wires no difference. So I say #### it take it to the shop. They ran a system check and got the same thing misfire in cylinder 3. They check over everything and say im only running on 2 cylinders. They swapped out the coil packs nothing. They give me a call and tell me its either control module #204 or ECM #704. There not sure which one but they have it narrowed down to those two. If I get either installed and it doesn’t fix it they can’t take it back out that’s there policy with electronics. I would rather go with the cheaper control module. What should I do? Can anybody point me in the direction in a used ECM and control module?
 
Well i tracked down a Ecm rebuilt for $270 1yr warrenty. its should be here sat. Im going to put it in myself. I still have no idea what this control module is i think there talking about the ECM. anyways im hoping this will be at. Im going broke behind this car. Ill let everybody know how it goes sat wish me luck
 
New ecu installed still getting same error code missfire cylinder 3. Things i have done so far to try and fix the sitution. New spark plugs new wires, new coil pack and ecu. What next Im getting tempted to take it to the dealers I cant keep spending money any thing else i need to check
 
your problem is a Power transistor failure, now that you described ur problem, i remember i had the same problem..... I did everything possible ( plugs, wires, Coil Packs, o2 sensor, MAS) then after 500 bucks i just decided to put my spare power transistor in and BOOM problem fixed! Good Luck.
 
Originally posted by purplehazetsi
your problem is a Power transistor failure, now that you described ur problem, i remember i had the same problem..... I did everything possible ( plugs, wires, Coil Packs, o2 sensor, MAS) then after 500 bucks i just decided to put my spare power transistor in and BOOM problem fixed! Good Luck.

where is the power transistor located on my car. and can you tell me how you check it. I hope your right man you just gave me a bit off hope hahah:D . How much is a new one.
 
Hmmm...yes the power transistor is definitely something you should check, because if it was screwed up, your plugs would not have enough voltage to spark properly (hence the misfiring). The power transistor I believe also is prone to malfunctioning if it is reverse biased (if you switch the polarities positive to negative) so this might be your problem...
 
I think you just have a cursed DSM like me. I've noticed alot of people have electrical problems somewhere in the ignition system. I changed the power transistor, coils, wires, maf,and plugs which fixed my problem for awhile but it seems to be creeping back because every now and again I notice the engine skips a beat. The only sensor which would cause a mis that I havent checked is the cam angle sensor, so thats next.
 
Originally posted by purplehazetsi
your problem is a Power transistor failure, now that you described ur problem, i remember i had the same problem..... I did everything possible ( plugs, wires, Coil Packs, o2 sensor, MAS) then after 500 bucks i just decided to put my spare power transistor in and BOOM problem fixed! Good Luck.

Damn you were where you when i bought the plugs wires and computer. aaaahhhh $45 2g power trainsistor= fixed car aaaah it feels good to be back on the rode.:thumb:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top