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Would I hit 13's?

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tsi_turboawd

20+ Year Contributor
474
0
Jun 20, 2002
Las Vegas, Nevada
Been awhile since i ran my car at the track, and on friday(16th) im going to Englishtown and run my car. I really want to run ASAP, since next week i'll be getting my new Centerforce Dual-Friction Clutch put on and i wont be able to race my car until 500mi break in period ends.
Do you think it's possible for me to hit high 13's?
if not, what adjustments(race gas+higher boost) needed?

current performance mods:
K&N
MAS mod
3" h. depot intake
MBC@15psi
cleaned I/C
Brode 2.5" UIP
Vented/crushed 1g BOV
2.5" test pipe
2.5" custom cat-back
8.5mm Magnecor wires
NGK 6ES

suspension mods:
Eibach Sportlines
Upper Strut bar

..other than that everything else is stockOMG
 
You've got the right idea... get some race gas and turn the boost up to about 18-19 psi. I don't know how much your stock clutch will hold, but 13's should be cake with the CFDF. Good luck.
 
i think you should definately be under 13.5............ afterall it is AWD

we've gone 12.9@102 with the following

3" pressbent catback with 2.5" muffler (makes no sense, but came on car)
lower IC pipe
kn filter
boost at 17psi
93 octane with octane boost
rewired stock fuel pump
weight reduction. still had back seats in place
free mods
 
please list all your "free mods" cause i need em too. and am trying to do all of them and need to see if i'm missing anything :) I wanna touch a 12.9 too, and basically have most of it that is needed to touch that. minus the fuel pump
 
well hmm let me see if i can name them off top of my head.

remove wheel well plastic around SMIC

clean out the inside of SMIC with paint thinner or something similar

remove all weight (sound deadener, heatshields, a/c, all crap under hood related to a/c, brackets, anything that doesnt need to be there)

removed all emissions

removed coolant lines from throttle body.... (some cars dont like this)

MAS mods, honeycomb, silencer, etc

removed foglight to let air get to the SMIC easier

popped headlight halfway open for cool air


if i think of others i'll repost them
 
In addition to popping the light halfway up, there are 4 screws that hold the light assembly in place, if you rempve these four screws and disconnect the light, you can effectively ram air into the filter.
 
Originally posted by Grizzly Racing


clean out the inside of SMIC with paint thinner or something similar

remove all weight (sound deadener, heatshields, a/c, all crap under hood related to a/c, brackets, anything that doesnt need to be there)

removed all emissions

removed coolant lines from throttle body.... (some cars dont like this)


paint thinner? i used gasoline...

emissions crap? coolant lines to the T-body...hm...hook it up gimme more info on this stuff, i'm still a semi-newbie too free mods
 
I have done research on the coolant lines and you should not do this on a dsm. The coolant lines to the tb do not circulate to anyplace where they will warm the air they are just ther to control the FIAV. Disconnecting them will make the FIAV erratic and can make the idle do all sorts of weird stuff.
 
12.9!! with only those mods is almost unrealistic. I may hit 13's but not deep in it. But who knows aslong as i run race gas it shouldnt be doubtful.

But how am i gonna mix pump 93oct with race gas(which oct)??

Im not even gonna practice launching cuz i dont want a burnt clutch before i even run.
 
Grizzley Racing is crazy! 12.9 with those mods? Must have a pro driver on a downhill track! nice job
 
Originally posted by tsi_turboawd
12.9!! with only those mods is almost unrealistic. I may hit 13's but not deep in it. But who knows aslong as i run race gas it shouldnt be doubtful.

But how am i gonna mix pump 93oct with race gas(which oct)??

Im not even gonna practice launching cuz i dont want a burnt clutch before i even run.

tsi, with those mods you should be deep in 13's with a good launch.

our old parts car went 13.80 with ONLY a MBC @ 17psi and KN filter


and my brothers car this past friday at the island went 13.00 @104 with 1.85 60'. his car has full 2.5" exhaust with homemade upper IC piping, KN, homemade o2 dump, clutch, lightened stock flywheel, MBC.

next run we turned the boost to 19psi

his next run was a 1.7 60' and was going 2mph quicker in the 1/8th when he couldnt get 4th gear... drifted to finish with 13.20 @96mph

so there is no doubt that next time out he should see some good 12 second passes.
 
A guy locally went 8.1@81 in the 1/8th with only exhaust, k&n and uicp and weight reduction and free mods with boost of only 15psi. That's a 1.7X 60' though. I think he said he has ran like a 13.1 in the 1/4, but should have been a 12, he just had a crappy 60' that time.
 
You guys are nuts. I would love to take out some more weight of my car, what would you recommend? Ive taken out al a/c and related brakets and lines, front bumper is gone, spare tire n stuff is gone. Aside from taking out he back seats, pass seat and headlight at the track, what else would you recommend for my daily driver?

That is crazy ass driving. Although it was my first time launching/racing my awd on f and r blown struts with stock springs, I only ran a [email protected] a 1.8 60ft. I now weight could lower the et, but you think I could muster a much better time with no other mods. I could definetly turn up the boost and such, but after seeing what you did, I wonder how much room for driver improvent there is.
 
well there is plenty to still take out......

on mine I removed all sound deadening and rubber padding from under the carpet, removed brackets off the bottom of front seats, completely gutted behind front seats, including speakers, and rear wiper motor and arm, all heat shields under the car, front bumper

under the hood i removed all a/c related parts, cruise control, bracket from cam angle to throttle body, bracket on back of intake manifold, ex.man heat shield, padding on firewall, a/c mount bracket, all emissions related, 2nd fan

i'm sure there is some i missed but u get the idea. if i dont need it to drive, its getting ripped out.... next project is canadian seatbelts, and manual steering!!!
 
i also drilled out all the spot welds in the brackets in the trunk and removed them. they used to hold the plastic and the seats. removed that big metal piece that rear seat backs sat again. it goes from 1 strut tower to the other and had the seat belt mounts on it. all this metal weighed in at 25lbs
 
yes i know this is "my old post" btw, i got a 13.90 with mods list as 1st post. Couldve done better tho.. and yes this was LONG ago last year, in Nov '02.

Now with my new mods quote me what you think will or capable of running :thumb: this list was off my profile =)

JDM GVR4 motor, Cyclone Intake Manifold, K&N air filter, 3" intake, hacked MAS, Joe P MBC@15psi, crushed/vented BOV, 2.5" brode UIP, 2.5" AHP downpipe, 2.5" test pipe, 2.5" cat-back exhaust, Ported exhaust manifold/14b turbo/o2 housing, Buschur turbo outlet elbow, NGK plugs, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Centerforce Dual-Friction clutch, gutted trunk, Autometer boost/air-fuel gauge, HKS turbo timer, Greddy shift knob, '90 external oil cooler, Mobil 1 syn motor oil, Mobil 1 syn trans. oil, Redline Water Wetter

..i hope to add a walbro 255 fuel pump before 4/26th mitsu shootout
 
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