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Lol +20 Hp Plz Read Is That True?

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Originally posted by racer
+20 HP ?

Yeah it's true for a non-turbo car but not for us.

All your buying is a resistor that you put inline with either the maf or air temp sensor (think it's air temp) and it alters the reading the computer gets on the air temperature forcing the motor to try and make up for the difference which gives the increase in HP. And it's more like 5+ on really hot days and no difference on any day that isn't over 100deg.

If somebody knows what this thing acctually does (im going from memory from a long time ago) please jump in.
 
heh why do they lie about it?If someone else know plz post here.:confused:O and Jim with ur mods do u have any signs of CW or u have no problems so far?
 
Well, if they tried to sell it by saying it runs a big ol' dick right through the middle of all the engineering and programming that big experienced factory went through, would you be asking if it was still good?

There are essentially no mysteries left once a motor's been in the hands of gearheads for more than a decade. Everything good there is to do to a Mits motor is in this forum. As well as long dissertations about what doesn't work. These moronic add-ons are examples of things that don't. You can type the pulpy ends of your fingers into titanium-tough callouses trying to make the answer change, but it won't.
 
Originally posted by racer
heh why do they lie about it?If someone else know plz post here.:confused:O and Jim with ur mods do u have any signs of CW or u have no problems so far?

I don't check for signs on crankwalk, I measure my endplay. Last measurement was still within manuf specs. People who go around corners to see if the clutch sticks to the floor as a check for crankwalk are fooling themselves. No reliability problems so far at all. I beat it up and it keeps coming back for more. Not sure why, something should have broke by now with all the stupid things I do... :confused:

I'm working on it though, I'm going to keep adding parts until I make the motor crankwalk. Then i'll put in a freshly built 6bolt.
 
Well it's mostly done by the alighment of your lucky stars. There is not way that it will work it's dumb. If it's going to trick the computer that you are taking in the cold air it's just going to adjust the mixture for the cold air, but in hot day it will just cause it to work even worse due to the shitty mixture you will get
 
I put on of these on my 1998 N/T and it felt slower actually...... went to the track about a week later, and my car was posting slower times than usual, so i took it off and my ET's went down almost .5. those things do not work don't waste your money.
JD
 
Awe, come on. We all know that the automobile manufactures and the oil companies have conspired to prevent us from having access to 400 hp ceramic automobile engines that get 200 mpg, last forever, producing only pure, clean water that you can bottle and drink.

And yet every time someone stumbles onto a piece of this hidden technology and tries to do us a service by making it available cheaply, they are denounced as a fraud.
 
Originally posted by wret
Awe, come on. We all know that the automobile manufactures and the oil companies have conspired to prevent us from having access to 400 hp ceramic automobile engines that get 200 mpg, last forever, producing only pure, clean water that you can bottle and drink.

And yet every time someone stumbles onto a piece of this hidden technology and tries to do us a service by making it available cheaply, they are denounced as a fraud.

Bastards, I know. You guys should be ashamed of yourselves talking like that. Shame on you.. :p

I remember when my clutch would stick. Ah well life goes on

What I ment by that was people saying "I have no crank walk cause my clutch doens't stick in" By the time that happens, it's so far gone you have crank marathon maybe even triathalon, "walk" hardly does it justice.
 
Does it realy matter if you check for CW or not. If have it, you still can't do anything about it, right??? Just run it till i dies! Or am I wrong here?
 
but if you know your getting it you can start looking for a good donor car to steal a 6 bolt from.... haha!

the resistor hooked to the IAT sensor basically tells the computer that the incoming air is 60* and it will advance the timing. in my experience with a 2.2 liter s-10 it did the job quite well. I am not going to bother doing anything cheap like this to the eclipse.. engine managment is a little more important on this car.
 
So, instead of basing timing advance on actual readings, you tell your gullible little computer that the best possible air is going in there.

That’s a little like telling your bud, “Hey, walk down to the store and buy me some beer, and by the way, there’s a tiger chasing you.” You may get your liquid refreshment a little faster but sooner or later your friend will have a heart attack and stop delivering.
 
Originally posted by wret
So, instead of basing timing advance on actual readings, you tell your gullible little computer that the best possible air is going in there.

That’s a little like telling your bud, “Hey, walk down to the store and buy me some beer, and by the way, there’s a tiger chasing you.” You may get your liquid refreshment a little faster but sooner or later your friend will have a heart attack and stop delivering.

What do you think people are doing when they remove the lower honeycomb of the MAF?
 
Originally posted by wret

And yet every time someone stumbles onto a piece of this hidden technology and tries to do us a service by making it available cheaply, they are denounced as a fraud.
And as long as Standard Oil's checks don't bounce, I shall continue to denounce.
 
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