Cometic HeadGasket problems

[Dannyboy1201]

I blew my head gasket earlier this month so I replaced it with a Cometic head Gasket and ARP head studs I drove the car for 2 weeks and I started to burn coolant again. I’m guessing the Cometic Head Gasket didn’t seal right. I’m going to tear back into the car on Wednesday, this time I’m going with the regular Mitsu 4 layer. It seems that there is a bunch of problems w/ getting Cometic Head Gaskets to seal right; beware.

Now I’m thinking of replacing my rings while I got the car apart. I’m going to try to try to pop the pistons out of the top and just replacing the rings. Any pointers would be great.

 

[Kingdom]

make sure both the head and block are either polished or decked for proper seal. if the head surface is uneven then it needs to be decked, the block is very hard to get heat warped so probably just polishing it should be fine. alot of people have their mitsu gasket leak because of uneven surfacing.

remember to torque the ARPs and then open them and then retorque to specs.

I had mine all to 50lbs, then 100lbs. then opened them all again, then 90lbs. using arp grease/lube, if using 10w30 then you need more torque.

 

[nowayout]

I turque my studs to 80 lb what ARP reacommends I will returgue later agian just in case.
I made Sure the Head and block were perfectly flat before use a cometic HG. i couldn't get .0002 to slide under my straight edge at all on the head or block.

 

[greathuskie]

metal head gaskets are picky, gotta make sure both surfacs are flat

 

[4sdair]

Originally posted by nowayout
I turque my studs to 80 lb what ARP reacommends I will returgue later agian just in case.
I made Sure the Head and block were perfectly flat before use a cometic HG. i couldn't get .0002 to slide under my straight edge at all on the head or block.

I torqued my ARPs to 80lbs using 30 weight oil on the nuts.

I was told if you use the ARP provided lube you only need 65lbs of torque.

Should I be going tighter than 80lbs with 30 weight oil?

I don't want to have to take this thing apart again.

 

[nowayout]

With 30 weight you should go higher. Correct me if I'm wrong I con't remenber the exact number but it should be over 100 LB/FT

 

[Kingdom]

I installed mine yesterday so I remember the intructions.

12mm - 190,000psi stud kit.

80lbs with the ARP moly lube.

120lbs with high quality 10w 30 oil.


the theory behind the high torque at first is to stretch the studs, then you loosen them and torque them to spec. I added 10lbs just incase.

Some people go the extra length and add a little more torque after having the car run a little. theory behind this one is that it will stretch a little bit more after getting hot.

 

[4sdair]

Originally posted by Kingdom
I installed mine yesterday so I remember the intructions.

12mm - 190,000psi stud kit.

80lbs with the ARP moly lube.

120lbs with high quality 10w 30 oil.


the theory behind the high torque at first is to stretch the studs, then you loosen them and torque them to spec. I added 10lbs just incase.

Some people go the extra length and add a little more torque after having the car run a little. theory behind this one is that it will stretch a little bit more after getting hot.

Where is this information coming from? I was told by ARP to tighten them to 80lbs with 30 weight. Was I misinformed? I have a 1995 7 bolt. The socket size is 1/2 inch on the nut. This is directly from ARP.

 

[Kingdom]

the one on your 7-bolt is 11mm i think. the 6-bolt is 12mm.

I got this information from the white sheet of paper inside the box.

but it doesnt mention anything about retorque.

all it mentions is 80lbs with arp and 120lbs with 10w 30.

 

[hostile]

Why would you use 30wt oil when the arp lube comes in the box? The arp lube is made for the application.

 

[Kingdom]

Originally posted by hostile
Why would you use 30wt oil when the arp lube comes in the box? The arp lube is made for the application.

yeah of course its better you use the arp lube.

its just mentioned their incase you dont get one for some odd reason, or maybe if you removed the head and installing it back etc.

 

[Dannyboy1201]

Has anyone of you ever done your own honning. How hard is it? I got all the tools I just need some last minute helpful hints.

 

[4sdair]

Originally posted by hostile
Why would you use 30wt oil when the arp lube comes in the box? The arp lube is made for the application.

Maybe I had better buy some lube. This engine came assembled with ARP studs so I never had the lube.

 

[nowayout]

Originally posted by Dannyboy1201
Has anyone of you ever done your own honning. How hard is it? I got all the tools I just need some last minute helpful hints.

unless the cyliner is not scratch. you should have it honed by a machine shop.

 

[Dannyboy1201]

2 weeks ago when i replaced my OEM headgasket I checked and it had no scratches what so ever.

 

[GRNDSM]

>I blew my head gasket earlier this month so I replaced it with a Cometic head
>Gasket and ARP head studs I drove the car for 2 weeks and I started to burn
>coolant again.

Did you resurface your head or at least checked the flatness of the head? There was a reason why the first gasket failed, most likely, a warped head. Not fixing it will almost certainly yield the same results.

>2 weeks ago when i replaced my OEM headgasket I checked and it had no scratches what so ever.

Then why would you mess with it?…

Leon
RR

 

[98TsiAWD]

Originally posted by Dannyboy1201
Has anyone of you ever done your own honning. How hard is it? I got all the tools I just need some last minute helpful hints.

Honing is very easy, you are pulling the rods and pistons right?
Just make sure you dont go down to far and scratch your crank journals with the honing attachment. Just move it at a good pace up and down in the cylinder trying to keep it centered and straight. shouldnt have to apply pressure against the walls with it.

 

[98TsiAWD]

Also before you hone the cylinders, make sure you pull out your oil squirters, if you hit them with the hone they will probly break off (at least on a 1g they would). Might want to replace them too, since they are so prone to plugging up.