Porting Head and Manifolds, Worth it??? HP??

[scottr126]

I have a 90 Talon AWD and it is completely stock currently. I just bought it real cheap because It has a broken timing belt and a few bent valves. Would it be worth it if while it is apart I gasket match port both intake and exhaust manifolds and also the head? Are there any significant gains in this to justify all the time i will spend? Thanks!

 

[DSMJim]

You tell me if it looks like it was worth it in my case...

Before Port, Turbonetics Manifold

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After Porting, Turbonetics Manifold

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Runners in manifold after porting

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You should have saw how poor it was before. So yeah porting is definately worth it. The faster you can get that hot exhaust gas outta there the better.

 

[OneSexyDSM]

the manifold, yes. The head, if its outta there I would if you plan on pushing a lot of power, yes its worth it.

 

[scottr126]

Yah the heads gonna be off so I might as well do it to. What are good bits to grind out all the metal? Stones or metal..etc? Any tips would be great, thanks! I have a good dremel and I also have a air grinder but my compressor sucks so I would be better off with a dremel I think.

 

[workin_on_it]

without a strong air compressor, its gonna take you a long time...and with a strong air compressor, its gonna take a long time...but not as long...the 1g heads flow well stock.....and personally i wouldn't mess around with them unless i had a spare incase i hit a water jacket..... i personally would stick to porting the manifolds but leave the head alone...but its your car so if you want to take the risk then go for it.
i got my car because it bent valves(timing belt broke)...too bad its a nt.
when doing the exhaust manifold(the only thing i have ported) go crazy with it....if it looks like its gonna slow down any flow at all, take it out. if your doing a stock manifold(which i'm sure you are)it's cast iron...so it's good and thick with lots to remove. i cant remeber what stone i used....but i'll try and find out(sitting out in the shop somewhere now).
good luck and have fun with your baby!

 

[4g63tc]

using a dremel? it's gonna take a while ( trust me experiance ) use a tungston (sp) carbide bit. (metal, lots of flutes) and it'll really chew up the cast iron. great for roughing.

i then shaped it with one of those orange stones to clean it up. ( get a couple different shapes)

I still haven't decided if i'm gonna remove the diverter(?) piece in the middle.

oh yeah when porting the runners try , and find an old style gasket (fiber or somthing) not the stainless one cause you reall can't port the runners that large.

try and get a 7cm turbo inlet gasket to port the flange. ( dealer has the best deal ask for an evo one, otherwise they will sell you the 6cm stock gasket. paid 10 bucks for mine)

if this doesn't help look at www.vfaq.com under porting

t.c.

 

[Sotarts]

Originally posted by scottr126
Yah the heads gonna be off so I might as well do it to. What are good bits to grind out all the metal? Stones or metal..etc? Any tips would be great, thanks! I have a good dremel and I also have a air grinder but my compressor sucks so I would be better off with a dremel I think.

http://dejontool.com/dsm-misc.htm (scroll all the way down) or similar for aluminum (intake manifold).

For exhaust/turbo components (works like magic with a cheap tool set-up like an electric drill), use this bit :

 

[Cirus_93TSI]

u need a very high powered grinder preferably with carbide bits to port ur head and turbo, ur not going to be able to do it with a dremel, u might be able to port just ur turbo in about a week if u worked on it for hours every day, it would take u a solid month of working on it at least 5-6 hours a day to port ur head, turbo and manifolds with a dremel
that rotary file might work if u had a really powerful electric drill, most people have one thats pretty powerful, but one of those rechargable battery powered drills isnt going to be anywhere near powerful enough, u need something heavy duty
but its best to do it with powerful grinder, the kind that hooks to and is powered by an air compressor and tank, with carbide bits, and several diferent regular griding bits to smooth it up after u get it sufficently powted, the final step of smoothing is about all the dremal is good for, its not powerful enough to dig into solid metal

 

[Cirus_93TSI]

and i also agree about not digging into ur head with a bit unless u have a spare, or u know what u are doing and have expirance at porting a mitsubishi head, the power increase of a ported head if quite big but if u mess something up its not like u can fix it, i would recomend getting the head ported by someone who knows what they are doing, u can port the turbo and manifolds urself without much risk of seriously damaging anything but i wouldnt risk it with ur head

 

[Sotarts]

Originally posted by Cirus_93TSI
u need a very high powered grinder preferably with carbide bits to port ur head and turbo, ur not going to be able to do it with a dremel, u might be able to port just ur turbo in about a week if u worked on it for hours every day, it would take u a solid month of working on it at least 5-6 hours a day to port ur head, turbo and manifolds with a dremel
that rotary file might work if u had a really powerful electric drill, most people have one thats pretty powerful, but one of those rechargable battery powered drills isnt going to be anywhere near powerful enough, u need something heavy duty
but its best to do it with powerful grinder, the kind that hooks to and is powered by an air compressor and tank, with carbide bits, and several diferent regular griding bits to smooth it up after u get it sufficently powted, the final step of smoothing is about all the dremal is good for, its not powerful enough to dig into solid metal

stfu! ur = your. Learn how to spell, use periods, capitalize-- it's so damn annyoing. And not every person is damn garage with latest/powerful tools.

I'm using a crappy 2,700 RPM plug-in drill. It's good enough. The bit is good for 5,000 RPM.