sixbolt swap help....cooling hoses

[chaye]

hey guys im almost done with my 6bolt swap and i have come to another set back..routing the cooling hoses to the turbo charger?
to those of you who know ..
how do i route the cooling hoses on my T-25 ..i know about the top hose but the bottome hose??
and on the water0inlet pipe there is a hole (where some sort of bolt would go) it is close to where it hooks up with the lower radiator pipe....
why is that there and how would i plug it or can i use that?

thanks guys i apologize for my bad writing skills but hey im frustrated and its like 2am....and well i suck at writing
thanks for any help
i have some shitty pics of the stuff im talking about but i dont know how to post them on the internet...

 

[cait sith]

I installed a T28 turbo on my 6 bolt motor, which hooks up the same way as a T25. You don't have to plug anything. If you can wait a little bit, I can take some pictures of it.

You'll need some more water hose, and some sort of cutting tool (Dremel with a cut off blade works fine), along with all the 1G and 2G waterlines at your access. Also, some small radiator clamps too, because you're going to be losing the "lip" on the lines, but waterlines aren't exactly large volume 22psi jobbies.

I highly reccomend a braided stainless line for the upper oil, IMO.

 

[Cablefed]

I got lucky, well I say that now, my 16G Killer does'nt require water to cool it. I'm still working on my six bolt hopefully it will be done in two weeks pending some parts showing up. I assume you used the 1G water neck and metal hose from the 1G setup. I have seen two versions of the front pipe, one has more water outlets than the other. One must be turbo and the other non-turbo.

 

[chaye]

thanks guys..
i am using the 1g water lines as well as the waterinlet pipe (metal with the neck pointing downward) just like it says in the magnusmotorsport outline..
and what about the hole that is on the water line..i dont know what this is for, i would post a pic but i dont know how
and the the top oil line is the the oil feed line for the turbo charger? if it is im using the stainles steel kit from one of the sponsors here ..i dont remember which one
thanks guys and
cait sith i would greatly apreciate pics of your set up
and Cablefed im also waiting on some parts like the flywheel(ACT-XACT 9lbs) and what internals are u using...
thanks again guys

 

[Cablefed]

For internals I'm using Wiseco Pistons (20 over), Eagle Rods, and stock bearings. I'm using ARP studs for the head and main caps. I bought a Moroso Oil Pan (very pricey) since I will be road racing with the car.

I'm feeding my turbo oil from the head instead of the oil block cooler via a kit I bought from AGP turbos that has an inline oil filter for my ball bearing cartridge in my turbo. The water pipe I have has the outlets for water to the turbo but I'm going to plug them for the time being since I don't need them. I'm thinking the only hoses I will need to fabricate a bit will be the ones that go from the throttle body to the main water pipe as well as the hoses from the fire wall to the main water pipe and neck.

Right now I don't have anything together because I have to get my rotating assembly balanced before I put it all together and in order to do that I have to wait on my rods and flywheel. I'm hoping this rebuild goes faster than my 7-bolt. I think it took about 6 hours just to do the bottom end of my seven bolt. I torqued everything down 3 times to make sure all was good, want to talk about time consuming.

 

[cait sith]

Okay, I'm going to give you the rough guide right now, and I'll post pictures later tonight to explain further.

Off the 1G turbo water lines, there should be one with a banjo fitting (Which is too small for the T25 style water banjo fitting), and the little slider screw that will go into that hole of the main waterpipe. It's hard to miss, as it's in a big "U" shape.

This is the only thing that really needs to be cut (I cut my base water line from the water/oil cooler) because I have it at a rather akward angle.

Regardless. Here's the instructions:

I took the U shaped water pipe, and cut it maybe an inch into the first bend of the U shape. Throw out the banjo fitting side, it's useless now. But the water pipe side that we have now, is the good one. Lip it, or leave it alone (I left it alone and put a screw clamp (NOT A T CLAM)), and attach some water hose to that. I ground the end of my water pipe to clean the cut up a little bit, but that's really not that nessicary.

We now have a water pipe that will be flexible enough to go through. Now, on your T25, there should be the waterpipe dead center in front. That's the one we're replacing, with the water feed line that you can find attached to the 7 bolt block. It should have a little finger handle for rotation or something like that. In any case, it's a lot shorter than the stock one, and a proper angle to hook up to our 1G water feed.

Screw the new water pipe in, install the turbo, and attach the water line, using another clamp (Don't use the stock clamps that are spring based, they suck, royally). If you have made the rubber line too long, trim it, try again. It's a pretty much guestimate.

Your other water hose (on the other side of the turbo), can remain as stock, and just run a longer piece of rubber hose (once again using those clamps), to the stock 1G water pipe outlet below the main radiator hose/spout.

I ran my oil feed line from the 6 bolt head (stock location), for 50 bucks from AGP. It was well worth it, because my stock oil feed line on my 7 bolt was stripped anyways (Always sprayed a bit of oil)... Plus it's all braided stainless steel and "SUPER PIMP RACER" looking.

Stock T25 oil drain pipe will mount to the oil pan fine, and that's it!

If I had the choice, I would've made a stainless-steel braided line for that water feed line, but I'm running WAY overbudget as is.

 

[cait sith]

Here are some really big pictures, as I said I would give.

I'm being, like, totally helpful, and stuff!!

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I'd give better pics of the parts, but the thing is already installed, and there's no way I'm going to rip it off right now until this bastard starts... Sorry.

 

[Cablefed]

Dude zip tie your vac lines to your turbo, bov, and anything else that is associated with your turbo. If one of those things blows off you maybe f**ked. Looks good so far. Where did you get those screws in the water neck to block off sensor spots not used?

 

[cait sith]

The car's not done yet, it's still on jackstands, so don't worry about those lines, they'll be all sorted out once I get my radiator/IC pipes/intake on...

The screws in the water neck came with it from Mitsubishi (Galant VR4 neck doesn't fit), so I can't tell you where to get those... Sorry...

 

[Cablefed]

Good luck man I hope yours starts up better than my 7 bolt did. MAKE SURE YOU PRIME YOUR OIL PUMP!!!!! I can't stress that enough. My machine shop mechanic beleives that is why my 7 bolt went belly up after a few miles. If you did not open the bottom end to replace pistons or anything you should be fine. If you did replace anything on the lower end the oil pump will need to be primed.

 

[MNGSX]

Use lots of assembly lube on the bearings.

I also packed the oil pump and passages.

One trick.

Pack the pump with assembly or petrolium jelly, (I used trangel) like normal.

Mix up some "bear snot"

Petrolium gelly or other oil compatable thick lube like moly and a thick motor oil so it is liquid but very thick in a bucket. I used an ice cream bucket. Before you put the t belt and oil pan on stick the oil pump pickup in the "bear snot" and spin the pump shaft with a air rachet or a socket on a electric drill. It drains back very slow and will disolve with oil cutting the mixture to a higher percentage of oil than the jelly. You will change oil soon on a new motor any way. Unless pumped it will pretty much just hang out in the oil passages.


As for the other stuff. I got my hex plugs for the t stat housing from a local hardware store.

I too cut off the banjo end of the water pipe. I left a little more length and hace a very short rubber hose connecting it to the T25 line.

 

[chaye]

hey here is my stuff

RED: outlet i was talking about..do i just plug it?
YELLOW: that outlet on the waterneck hooks up to the line on the
turbo as like the arrow? is this the inlet or outlet?
BLUE: there is some sort of sensor here. do i take it out and somehow create a fittin to hook a water hose from there to the bottom turbo water line like it is shown by the arrow?
GREEN; this two(cant see them clearly) are the heater hoses? the top would be the in or the out..or does it really matter?

thanks guys
and cable feed i love your set up i wish i would have spend that much on the bottom but i only plan on running 17psi at the most
my set up
all rotating assembly has been balanced to .01
wiseco pistons .20over 8.5:1 comp..along with rings and wristpin(full floating set up)
1gbig rods machined to fit the wrist pin(22mm)
crank has been balanced and polished
clevelite 77 main bearings and rod bearings
ACT XACR flywheel (9lbs)still on back order
MLS headgasket (dsmmotorsports)
ARP head studs
new oil pump and timing belt hardwarei packed as much assembly lube as i possibly could on the gears and housing
balance shafts removed
and sadly t-25 with the 2g manifold.......
what do you guys think?

 

[chaye]

last pic got errased

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RED: outlet i was talking about..do i just plug it?
YELLOW: that outlet on the waterneck hooks up to the line on the
turbo as like the arrow? is this the inlet or outlet?
BLUE: there is some sort of sensor here. do i take it out and somehow create a fittin to hook a water hose from there to the bottom turbo water line like it is shown by the arrow?
GREEN; this two(cant see them clearly) are the heater hoses? the top would be the in or the out..or does it really matter?

thanks guys

 

[boostle]

Get yourself a 1G N/T front water pipe man, there is no 'red' fitting on it.

 

[cait sith]

Nooooo. The secondary water pipe feed off the head is for the water/oil cooler.

The one on the main waterpipe is for the turbo, which is why you need the 1G turbo waterfeed pipe that looks like a U shape.

 

[boostle]

umm, I have 16,000 miles on my 6bolt swap and it's running just fine thank you. Remember, there's more than one way to run water lines.

 

[chaye]

ahgg...ok so here is what i did

as shown in my pic i pluged the red fitting and will run both water lines for the turbo from the water neck..will this be ok?