is it really as easy as it seems to get mid 12s

[chrisgsx]

u guys are saying that if i follow the tunning instructions and spend a little over $2000 than my car can run mid 12's and have close to or over 300 horse power on a 92 eclipse gsx. i know that u have to be a good driver so dont tell me about that "u have to be a good driver" i am. i am just curious to know if it is as easy as it seem.

help me out.

 

[larryd]

easy no.. pretty easy yes.. you need the right mods, the right tuning and good driving.. sorry had to throw that in

 

[chrisgsx]

Originally posted by larryd
easy no.. pretty easy yes.. you need the right mods, the right tuning and good driving.. sorry had to throw that in

ok. im wondering about the tunning guide on this site is it really as easily achived as it seems just buying the parts and doin the free stuff. is there any one out there that has tried the mods on the page do they really work.


thanx

 

[InFlames]

Making ~300hp from a 4 cylinder and running 12s is NEVER easy!! But compared to other cars, its a piece of cake.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

ITs much easier on a 1g than a 2g, but I did it on my 2g for less than 2 grand. 14b turbo for 100 bucks, boostcontroller, AFC, logger, UICP with 1gbov, 2.5" turbo back exhaust, K&N, and some cheap/free mods were good for 12.8 at 106. I have since spent a LOT more money for a hard earned two tenths...

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Yes the free mods work, and all is easy expect hacking the Air can. Hope you got a strong arm. I felt the difference in power after doing the mods. Don't get to happy. The power is ill felt, but still there

 

[BatmanGSX]

$2000? You're out of your mind. That's way too much. Here is my list. It's not for pansies. Your hands will get dirty. Do it right and 12s should be no problem. Your probably going to have to cut a 1.7 60ft and bang every gear.

I take no responsibility if you screw this up and blow up your car:

Build homemade ball + spring MBC - $8

Remove foglights - free
More air to SMIC

Pull aircan off, discard in trash - free

Port the stock turbine housing - free

Port the stock 02 sensor housing - free

Port the opening of your manifold to match the turbine housing - free

Gut catalytic converter - free

Rewire fuel pump - $10
Use Radio Shack 10ga wire and rip off a relay out of a light kit at Napa - I'm serious

Hack MAS - $10
Take a dremel to the opening of the lower chamber grind until it falls out (make sure to get the suppor braces, be carefull of the stock resistor). Put a 10k resistor in parrallel with the other resistor. Construct a 1" square flapper using a very light spring and junk from a hardware store. Make sure that the flapper will open at WOT and make sure it won't get stuck open. Also make sure that it is sturdy as **** so no part of it will eat your compressor wheel (apoxy everthing).

Now go to the track. Run around 18psi on 116 octane. You will have spent no more than $28 depending on what tools you have around or what you can get your hands on. An idiot could run a 103-104mph trap on this which should be good for 12.9x.


Options:

K&N - $45

BPR7ES Spark Plugs - Who cares?
Beginners gap to .028

Drop exhaust after DP - Free

Remove passenger headlight - Free

16G Turbo - $599, turn boost up to 22psi

Walboro Fuel Pump - $110

If you complete the options you're still under $1000 and should be able to cut some mid 12s if you don't suck.

The trick is not be afraid. But you have to use that 116 octane leaded stuff and your car isn't going to be fast on the street. When you want 12.5s on pumpgas, that's where you have to start spending money.

 

[Z1500]

In a 1g AWD like you have it's very easy to run mid 12's.
A word of caution. One of the biggest pitfalls I see new guys running into is wanting just barely enough mods to hit 12's. That usually nets them a 16g and no FMIC and mild other upgrades. An AWD DSM will run 12's without making very much HP, so you may be disappointed with the cars output despite the fact it can tick off a 12. Because they launch hard and are generally geared toward 1/4mile racing, you can run 12's with well under 300hp. On the street you are going to get walked by Cobras, Vettes, most any modified V8 cause you just aren't putting down the power. Build the car with the parts to run 11's then it will run 12's all day long on pump gas without driving the hell out of it. And you will be putting out enough power to put a BIG smile on your face.

Kevin
www.agpturbo.com

 

[Enigma_Man]

A word of advice about the aircan mod though.

Don't just disconnect the aircan, and throw it out. I've seen a few people do this, and just clip their filter to the maf. There's nothing to support the filter/maf, so it leans down, and rubs against the frame of the car. The filter ends up getting wrecked this way. K&N's get all mooshed on the bottom where they rub, and generic filters get torn up, and you suck the filter material into your intake.

What I did that works great, is take a dremel with some cutoff wheels, and just turn the aircan into a retaining ring with mounting brackets. Keep the two flanges that attach under the BOV, and in the front (I don't remember if there was a third one, but I just left those two).

Now, your filter will be properly supported, and not flop around when driving hard, and not rub on anything and get messed up.

-Jesse

 

[mike9146]

I'll go a step further and say don't hack your air can. The small increase in airflow doesn't compensate for the ~40 degree hotter air you'll be sucking into the MAF and the corresponding amount of timing your ECU will pull when it senses temps greater than ~108 degrees. Check out a log from a bone stock car, then of a car with a cut can, and you'll notice that the stocker is only 5-15 degree's hotter than ambient while the car is on the highway and the "cut" car will be double that. Add ten more degrees of you're at WOT for more than two gears. Why defeat half of the work your stock SMIC is doing?

Mike C.

 

[kpt4321]

Originally posted by BatmanGSX


Hack MAS - $10
Take a dremel to the opening of the lower chamber grind until it falls out (make sure to get the suppor braces, be carefull of the stock resistor). Put a 10k resistor in parrallel with the other resistor. Construct a 1" square flapper using a very light spring and junk from a hardware store. Make sure that the flapper will open at WOT and make sure it won't get stuck open. Also make sure that it is sturdy as **** so no part of it will eat your compressor wheel (apoxy everthing).

Either my theories are way wrong or you just made a simple mistake (the post contained a lot of information and was very informative, well done.), but I think adding a 10k resistor in parallel is the wrong thing to do. You want to trick the ECU into thinking that the air is cooler than it really is, so that it adds more fuel and compensates for the lean A/F mixture caused by the extra unmetered air. By looking at the chart in the tech manual (like page 14-17 or so) you can see a graph that says resistance goes up as temperature goes down. Therefore, you want to create more resistance to make the ECU think it is colder, by adding a resistor in series. Adding a resistor in parallel would lessen the resistance, creating a higher temperature reading and making the car run leaner.


To stay on topic:

My car, a 93 AWD, trapped at 102.6 (almost enough for a 12 with decent driving) with only the following mods:

K&N
Slightly hacked MAF
Dejon compressor elbow
ACT 2100
2.5 inch turbo back with cat
MBC set at like 22 psi
117 octane fuel

Since then, I have added a test pipe, ported the mani, turbo, and O2, a whole new fuel system, and soo, a severly hacked and adjustable MAF. I will let you guys know what the car does next week.

 

[KenTSIII]

Yeah.. alot of good info above. But driving is the most important part... everyone thinks they are awesome drivers... until you ride w/ a truly awesome driver! Fathouse ran 12.5@108 w/ stock turbo (unported), denso 190 fuel pumpe, home hacked maf w/ potentiometer, MBC, disconnected exhaust, & some cam2. I was there & those were his only mods to his 91 TSI AWD w/ 1xxk miles. I ran a best of 12.6 @ 108 that night & broke my 3bolt rear trying to catch him.. every time I'd run a slightly better time.. he'd beat it the next time out.. pissed me the fu(k off.. But I must admit that he's an awesome driver... he goes through the gears soo fast your head never comes off the head rest. Of course he now runs 11.6s w/ a 20g setup.. so ?

 

[turboholic]

Originally posted by kpt4321
Therefore, you want to create more resistance to make the ECU think it is colder, by adding a resistor in series. Adding a resistor in parallel would lessen the resistance, creating a higher temperature reading and making the car run leaner.

-It's should be series, not parallel. BatmanGSX's describing an Al Bhala hack MAF. Here's the instruction for home-made AFC

-Kevin.

 

[BatmanGSX]

Originally posted by kpt4321
Either my theories are way wrong or you just made a simple mistake

Yes, simple mistake, it should be "series".

 

[Oreopride18]

Woah. Someone said these cars get walked on over the streets. That is *way* off. Mainly the AWD's dominate. When racing on the street all the ideal track conditions (grip, even road, straight contact path) are thrown out the window. The trailer-queen RWD cars lose what little traction they had on a drag strip and can get walked over an AWD on the street. Around here (and most streetracing boards) the DSM is recognized as the import evuivalent of the Mustang. I figure at the tracks the Z28's and Cobras fair quite a bit better.

 

[mike9146]

I think that he meant that you're more likely to run someone from a roll on the street, in which case, your launch advantage would be useless. Certainly, high-HP RWD's do have a problem keeping up with us at the "Stop Light Grand Prix."

Mike C.

 

[Z1500]

Woah. Someone said these cars get walked on over the streets. That is *way* off. Mainly the AWD's dominate. When racing on the street all the ideal track conditions (grip, even road, straight contact path) are thrown out the window. The trailer-queen RWD cars lose what little traction they had on a drag strip and can get walked over an AWD on the street. Around here (and most streetracing boards) the DSM is recognized as the import evuivalent of the Mustang. I figure at the tracks the Z28's and Cobras fair quite a bit better.

So I'm way off? Do you even know what the term "walking" means? It means at the top end of the race one car "walks" away from the other. Of course a 280hp AWD DSM is going to kick anything's ass to about 30-40mph, but then the modded RWD with 350hp and less drive train losses is going to "walk" right on by you. Thus I recommend building a car for 400+hp, you can race Z06 Vettes from a roll and still win. (thats what I do)

Kevin
www.agpturbo.com

 

[Black95GSX]

Originally posted by Z1500
. Build the car with the parts to run 11's then it will run 12's all day long on pump gas without driving the hell out of it. And you will be putting out enough power to put a BIG smile on your face.

Kevin
www.agpturbo.com

I'll definately agree with that.......

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

I second that.

Later,

 

[tjh-dsm]

I threeve that.....(that's right threeve)

 

[BatmanGSX]

Kevin, I don't think most of these people have ever been at 135mph and had a BPU Supra quite literally "walk away" from their 270whp "king of the street" DSM. Then they would know.

280hp will get you a 103mph trap and possible a 12.99 in a 1G DSM but a 13.5 second Supra is still going to walk you where it counts. I think this is what Kevin is talking about.

 

[EvolvingGST]

its all abt the RX7FD generation with the light weight rotary engine which gives equal weight ratio... or the MR2s with midship RWD because of that they slip less due to the weight balancing ^^;