Built Engine quotes

[AWDBurn]

Heres a question for all you guys that already have built motors in your 4G63

I am wanting to go with Forged 9.0:1 pistons, rods, new rod bearings, refinished crank or maybe knifed, you know the whole jazz on the bottom end. My top end is already taken care of on the motor in my car with everything aftermarket except the cams and lifters basically right now.

What I want to know is if I supply the 6 bolt block with all the stock parts included.

What would my charges be for, I know I can get parts for about 15% off retail through a few friends I have

parts?

Labor?

Should I send it off to someone/Who? or find somone locally? I live in Iowa and most all shops around here do V8s and will laugh and prolly turn me down when I tell them I have a 4cyl puttin out 375hp and I want more.

Thanks guys

AWDBurn
92 TSI AWD > 660s, 255fp, MAFT conversion, 3", runnin a smooth 17PSI street and ready for much more

 

[UndergroundR32]

The parts I would say get yourself, depending who you have build the engine. I bought my forged pistons and rods at a fairly cheap price (thanks to Larryd and gave my guy all the parts that he needed. I think he charged me around 800 to hot tank the block, deck it, bore and hone the cylinders .020 over , install new freeze plugs, and completely assemble the bottom end. I also had him knife edge the crank for a couple hundred more. So do the math and I paid roughly 1900 for my bottom end, including parts and labor. This was local of course, and didn't include shipping a short block both ways. What I would tell you, is whoever you use to do the work, make sure they're experienced and you've spoken with people who have gone to them for similar work before, and make sure they use a torque plate! I actually convinced my guy to buy a torque plate specifically for my engine because he didn't own one for a 4g63. So I got a freshly fabbed plate for my engine . Keep me posted on how it goes.

 

[Unreal]

Stock motors rock. Unless your trying to run 9s, stick with the stock motor. I went through 2 "built forged" motors before I put a stock motor back in and have been happy with it. Stock is good for over 500hp, so why bother building it?

 

[AWDBurn]

the reason that I'm bothering with this is b/c my motor is slightly damaged right now.

the other day I was driving through town after I got done working on my car. One fitting off of my oil filter block was loose that was supplying my turbo with oil. The damn thing was leaking hard core and I didn't notice this untill I got home, one reason I even stopped home was that I saw might engine water temp guage sky rocketing, I was like what the f*%&. I parked the car and the plugs for my radiator fans were fried/smoked. And my engine was overheating while I was driving with very low oil.

I checked the oil level and it was to the bottom of the dipstick<OUCH

and Ouch is right. I changed the oil and at the end when almost all the oil was out, there was fine metal particals in the last of the oil.
I have changed the oil twice in a week to get as much of the metal out as possible and will do it again in another week. Right now the at idle after startup blue smoke(burning oil) comes out and I know my car runs rich at idle, but there is a very fine mist that comes out the tail pipe also, but will go away after the car is warm and has driven a short ways.

SO I know my engine is gonna need some attention soon. Right now I also happen to have some beef with Bushur Racing b/c the rebuilt trans I got from them, grinds 2nd and pops out of reverse, so I need that done to my car also. might as well get everything done at the same time. Or just buy another damn car and sell my problem off.

AWDBurn<was burnin them>now prolly not cuz of the motor and shatty 2nd synchros

 

[Unreal]

Then put a ### motor in it for $500 if that. You can get a ### motor for $1000, sell the turbo, head, intake, TB, and all the other parts, swap the bottom end in, and land up costing 400-500.

 

[AWDBurn]

If I am getting a used stock engine from somone and just ploping it in my car I'll want to inspect it first without the head on the block, and will not settle for anything less than a 6 bolt which are not that easy to come by around Iowa that have less than 50k miles on them.

regardless, I gotta pretty crappy deal out of what happened to me, the engine in the car right now was a stock rebuilt engine that had only about 5000 miles on it so I wanna go with somthing different now if I can afford it and can get it done right and have a reliable motor.

 

[Unreal]

Like I said, buy a ### motor. They are 6-bolts.

 

[pneumo]

What's up with the automated censoring? Is the "###" supposed to say "JDM" or what?

 

[Talon9310]

Originally posted by Unreal
Stock motors rock. Unless your trying to run 9s, stick with the stock motor. I went through 2 "built forged" motors before I put a stock motor back in and have been happy with it. Stock is good for over 500hp, so why bother building it?

Unreal,

I was thinking about getting a built motor. Who built your forged motors and what happened to them that made you go back to a stock one?

Thanks

 

[Talon9310]

Originally posted by Unreal
Stock motors rock. Unless your trying to run 9s, stick with the stock motor. I went through 2 "built forged" motors before I put a stock motor back in and have been happy with it. Stock is good for over 500hp, so why bother building it?

Unreal,

I was thinking about getting a built motor. Who built your forged motors and what happened to them that made you go back to a stock one?

Thanks

 

[Unreal]

1st one was a local machine shop, 2nd my friends and I built. Unless you want to make 600+ hp, then stick with the stock motor. It will be cheaper, quiter, more street friendly, and take the abuse just fine. Piston slap, and all that is not fun. If you do get a built motor, spend the money and get one done from a known good shop. The only place I would get a motor from is RRS or Shepherd. Then again, I just want to run 10s, so why bother?

 

[candela]

Then again, I just want to run 10s, so why bother?

I agree 100% with Unreal here
however if you are going to get a new setup by my block from me for $150 plus shipping... Its complete just needs new pistons/rings, honing and maybe a resurface for good measure (but it NEVER went above 210* anyhow) then install is cheap and I can prolly get it shipped for about $140 anywhere in the continental US


Austin

 

[AWDBurn]

Candela

Do you have a 6 bolt block and would it include the crankshaft?
Have you already taken it apart?
If so what happened to the pistons and rods?
Also what condition is the crank in?

 

[candela]

Yes the block is still assembled, comes with EVERYTHING.. bolt BS eliminator crank rods and pistons...

 

[AWDBurn]

Originally posted by candela
Yes the block is still assembled, comes with EVERYTHING.. bolt BS eliminator crank rods and pistons...

Thats only 1/2 of a reply, so I can only offer half the money $75

anyways, check into anwering the rest of the questions completely.