$2000 upgrade

[95mitsugsx]

Alright. I have about 2 g's to put into my car. What should I put in it that could get me the most out of it. i was thinking Garrett gt series but that's all the money there. The only mod I have is ACT2600 clutch and full stainless clutch lines and new master cylinder and slave cylinder. I want power now but know I might just have to start small with intake, exhaust, computer, etc, but I have a big need for speed now.

 

[herostar]

1. Intake
-$50 for cheapo
-$200 for injen from larryd)
2. Turbo-back Exhaust
-$400 from local shop w/ magnaflow muffler
-$800 for Apexi N1
3. Gauges and pod
-Autometer:
$50 for boost (nessecary)
$55 for a/f (least helpful, but cheap and looks neat)
$130 for EGT (#2 after boost, but not nessecary)
-Defi electronic gauges = $1,000 plus for a set including translators
-$40-$50 for a Lo-Tek gauge pod (2 or 3 hole)
4. New intercooler pipes & bov
-$100 for brode uip & 1g bov
-$500 for greddy pipes and hks SSQV bov
5. Boost control
-$50 for Joe P. manual boost controller
-$600 for some electric boost controllers
6. Turbo (this is where personal choice really starts to come into play...)
- What are your goals?


after you do about the first 5 I'd save your money and research a little before you get a new turbo. remember, once you get a new turbo you're going to want fuel upgrades, which mean injectors, pump, afc, and maybe a fuel pressure regulator. After all of that you'll surely want a front mount intercooler. it goes on and on and on. Personally, I think that since you have to ask, you should just start with the first 5 things I listed because if you'd researched more you'd allready know. What you pay for is what you get. Going about middle of the price road gets you barely any less quality (if any) than the most expensive stuff, but costs about 30% less. In the end it's all up to you. If you get an intake/exhaust/pipes/bov/etc and run the boost at about 14-15psi you will feel a huge difference, and you'll have added at least 30 horsepower.

 

[XTurboSpYderX]

A-pillar dual gauge pod - $35
Boost gague - $60
EGT gague W/probe - $200
BOV - $200
boost controler - $80
dejontool CIP-2GK1 intake pipe w/return tube - $120
K&N filter (to fit onto a 3" GM MAFS) - $45
3" GM MAS - $150
Ramchargers MAFT - $200
dejon tool UICP (w/proper flange for your BOV) - $105
RNR racing 3" tubular O2 housing - $200
RNR racing 3" SS downpipe - $245
RNR racing 3" cat back exhaust - $350
1' piece of 3" SS piping (to weld in place of your cat) - $5
port/polish - turbo, exhaust mani - free (it's not that hard)

6 pack of corona to enjoy while you work on your baby -$4.75

and you have a quarter left to call your momma... cuz... dude... it's mother's day...



and if you shop arround I am sure that you can find this stuff cheaper... I just used retail price for everything...

 

[echo]

i would say goto the tuning guide. start from the top and go down. of course taking some time to search for the best prices.

 

[XTurboSpYderX]

Originally posted by echo
i would say goto the tuning guide. start from the top and go down. of course taking some time to search for the best prices.

uuummm... yeah... read my list... the only thing that I DIDN'T put was new turbo, fuel pump, and clutch... but that's just cause I ran out of $$... if he had another $200 I would tell him to get a fuel pump, plugs and plug wires... but by the time he gets done installing all those parts... he will HAVE another $200.. or more... and he will KNOW that he needs new plugs, wires, and he will probabally go with injectors before (or at the same time) as a new turbo... if he goes that route...

clutch.... ehhh... he can wait til' he burns the stock one up... then it will be an optimal time to go with a lightweight flywheel as well... but he only set down a $2000 limit... and speed costs $$ and I am just trying to give him dollar figures to put with the parts he is looking at...

 

[Hazard]

he already has an ACT2600

 

[XTurboSpYderX]

well there ya go...

 

[Megaman]

Originally posted by echo
i would say goto the tuning guide. start from the top and go down.

i 2nd that...rre also has a nice little guide

 

[95mitsugsx]

I already have an ACT 2600 with stainless line and new master and slave cylind so cluthc is bulletproof .Ohh, I forgot, I have boost gauge and Lo tek 3 gauge pod, but what are two other gauges to get to fill my two empty holes??

 

[alex99gst]

Originally posted by Megaman


i 2nd that...rre also has a nice little guide

i third that and also find a part you would want on the tuning guide, then go to some sites to check the prices.
www.machv.com
www.roadraceengineering.com
www.dejontool.com
www.hksusa.com
www.greddy.com
www.horsepowerfreaks.com

and for reviews go to www.dsmreviews.com/dsmreviews.php3
hope that helps

 

[XTurboSpYderX]

Originally posted by 95mitsugsx
I already have an ACT 2600 with stainless line and new master and slave cylind so cluthc is bulletproof .Ohh, I forgot, I have boost gauge and Lo tek 3 gauge pod, but what are two other gauges to get to fill my two empty holes??

EGT

oil pressure

 

[brads]

1. DSMLink - you have a 95. A 95 owner would be screwing themselves over to go with anything else, other than possibly a complete standalone.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=51896

2. No gauges, except boost, and maybe EGT. save your money. You don't need the others to tune, you will already have all the info you need to tune with DSMLink.

Thats $800 right there. But its the best way to start out.

MBCs are cost effective ways to turn up the boost.
1G BOVs are cheap and effective, get IC piping set up for a 1G BOV, maybe even a FMIC with short route piping(get it all at once to save a few bucks).

You will need to decide what turbo setup you are going to go with before you start getting intake, exhaust etc. But you can do supporting mods like fuel pumps, and injectors anytime.

Brad

 

[Blizz92tsi]

First of all like alot of other members have already said USE THE TUNING GUIDE! I can't stress that enough making a dsm fast is well on its way to being a science. People have already found proven ways which is why we have the tuning guides. Second, research, research, research before you buy anything. Find out what others think about the product. How much, ease of install, worth the money, and is there anything better you should go with. Third, I would check dsmtrader.com all the time. Many items can be found there that people have barley used and are now going bigger/better, or people who have extra stuff or getting rid of their dsm. Fourth, another way to save money is to do as much of the work you can. If you don't know how to install something theres usually someone here that can help. You can also save money by doing your porting work your self, and if you can't find a cheap exhaust on dsmtrader.com you could get a really cheap 2.5 press/mandrel exhaust thats not stainless and paint the entire exhaust and downpipe in a rust resistant paint and then either wrap it in exhaust wrap or get it heat coated (not the right term but you know) to keep heat down. Sorry for the long post but these are somethings I found after starting my dsm I wish I would've asked or been told. Theres my two pennies.

 

[NEO]

go to a machine shop with a really good reputation wit dsm's

get ur head completely redone- port/ polish i mean the works almost a for sure way to free 90 horses up! could be anywhere from 400-700$

go on ebay n shop for a boost guage thats a must, the factory one is crappp. i found my vielside blue rev. indiglo for 25 bucks! ebay rock!

stay on ebay and get a elect. boost controller, easier to set than a manual plus u can do it all from the inside and more acurate! cost depends on use

coilovers to stiffen the suspension a bit. helps alot on ur launch, doesnt make u feel like ur on a damn rockin chair! keeps ur weight distrbution even.

turbo timer is a must for any turbo car, especially if ur running above factory boost, shiet need to cool down properly, nah mean!


thats jus something, for u to munch on, its ur money and dont be in a hurry get the best deal u can

that be all,..,..... UnO

 

[95mitsugsx]

Originally posted by NEO
go to a machine shop with a really good reputation wit dsm's

get ur head completely redone- port/ polish i mean the works almost a for sure way to free 90 horses up! could be anywhere from 400-700$

go on ebay n shop for a boost guage thats a must, the factory one is crappp. i found my vielside blue rev. indiglo for 25 bucks! ebay rock!

stay on ebay and get a elect. boost controller, easier to set than a manual plus u can do it all from the inside and more acurate! cost depends on use

coilovers to stiffen the suspension a bit. helps alot on ur launch, doesnt make u feel like ur on a damn rockin chair! keeps ur weight distrbution even.

turbo timer is a must for any turbo car, especially if ur running above factory boost, shiet need to cool down properly, nah mean!


thats jus something, for u to munch on, its ur money and dont be in a hurry get the best deal u can

that be all,..,..... UnO

already have boost gauge. I have researched extensively and have almost decided on a lot of items, i just want to know if there are any better options than What I'm going to list for less money. First off dejon tool full upper intercooler piping with HKS ssqv. Then 3" dejon tool intake, A'pexi N1 exhuast and downpipe, S-AFC and AVC-R, 550 cc injectors( Don't know which), then possible turbo and intercooler upgrade. Anything I'm missing here?

 

[herostar]

you will need a fuel pump and an egt gauge


you could get yourself a manual boost controller instead of the AVC-R and save 200 bucks right there. A MBC is easier to install than an electric one. my mbc took about 10 minutes to to set, and I haven't had a problem with it since I put it in about 4 months ago... You could get an A/F gauge to fill up your other hole in your gauge pod. I noticed someone on this forum bought an autometer clock to put in their extra hole... heh, whatever suits your needs.

 

[XTurboSpYderX]

Originally posted by 95mitsugsx
First off dejon tool full upper intercooler piping with HKS ssqv.

1)dejon tool ROCKS... I recomend any of their products...

2)the HKS SSQV is a very pretty valve... and it has inserts so you can change the tone of the valve... but in order to use them you can not recirculate it, and venting COULD cause off throtle hesitation, and will almost certanly cause you to run rich between shifts due to loss of metered air, which will foul your spark plugs very quickly. This BOV has also been proven to cause compressor surge, due to slow actuation, which leads to premature turbo failure, and kind of defeats the purpose of having a BOV at all. I know a lot of people that are happy with the sound of the SSQV, but honestly, I think that unless you are showing your car, it is not worth the money/hassle.


I am partial to the TXS H-34R... but for your needs the 1G or the Greddy type-S should be fine, and they are made to be returned to the intake...

 

[EclipseGSX13]

K&N filter (to fit onto a 3" GM MAFS) - $45
3" GM MAS - $150
??

Does this connect to the 2g adapter? do all mas use the same connector.
and how big is the 2g mas?

thanks

 

[Agent Ezzard]

you could spend your money elsewhere by getting like a fuel pump as a performance upgrade rather than a GM MAS. the stock one will do you quite well to acheive your goals.

 

[JRock]

Originally posted by NEO

stay on ebay and get a elect. boost controller, easier to set than a manual plus u can do it all from the inside and more acurate! cost depends on use

I believe a MBC is easier and more acurate. Atleas thats what I have been told be DSM gurus.

 

[Megaman]

Originally posted by JRock


I believe a MBC is easier and more acurate. Atleas thats what I have been told be DSM gurus.

mbc's are def more easier and cheaper

 

[brads]

Originally posted by 95mitsugsx
Anything I'm missing here?

A lot more research. If you had extensively researched, you'd see you need a logger with an AFC, and thats not even a good choice of fuel management to get for a 95. Also the 550s would be a waste without a bigger fuel pump, the pump needs to be done first. I wouldnt get that small of an upgrade injector anyhow. You don't need an upgrade injector with the stock turbo though. Also a 3" intake on a stock turbo is pointless. Do the intake when you upgrade the turbo. Also, getting IC piping at the same time you do an IC could save you money, and get you a nicer kit. The Dejon tools pipes are nice, but if you got an IC kit with pipes, you could get shortrouted piping.

Brad

 

[jretta91]

i think if i had to go IN ORDER....
1) exhaust
2) MBC
3) walbro 255
4) FPR
5) safc/dsmlink
6) FMIC

etc etc.... i'd say get the most out of that 14b, then go from there.

 

[jretta91]

sorry i meant t25